Uganda – On to Lake Mburo

Posted on July 24, 2024August 15, 2025 by blairbirding

June 17 – Day 2 (or 4)

It seems like all the tour companies now add days in transit to the advertised length of their tours. So even though this was really only the second full day of the tour, it is reflected as Day 4 since the travel day to get to Uganda and the day of the meeting dinner were included. Since it was our 4th day in country and we had birded on all the days, it did not matter to me. BUT another timing issue did matter. I forgot to reset the time on my camera so it was actually still recording photos on Pacific Daylight time. Thus a photo date stamped as 10 pm on June 15th was actually taken on the morning of June 16th. I did not catch this error until late in the tour and then reset the time but by then I had a lot of photos that were out of place. Theoretically easy to fix, but since I had processed and/or downloaded some photos as we progressed, it was more of a challenge than it should be. I promise I will never do that again…but that only matters if my memory recalls the promise.

We had breakfast at the Boma and said goodbye, loading our goods onto the Land Cruiser. One nice thing about this tour was that we stayed at least two nights at every stop, so the packing and unpacking was not too bad. Of course, this also meant that there were some places where a single night might have been preferred had stays of two or more. From the Boma Guesthouse we set out for our first stop at the Mpanga Central Forestry Reserve traveling through Kampala, the Ugandan capital. Kampala is a large metropolitan area with a population approaching 4.0 million with the population of the whole country being around 48 million. The traffic is pretty staggering with the mix of buses, jitneys, motorbikes, trucks, and perhaps even thousands of pedestrians feeling pretty chaotic to my western eyes – not dissimilar though to other large cities in un- or under- developed countries. Veronica masterfully handled the traffic and although it looked like accidents should happen every moment, we saw none. We got out of the urban density and arrived at the Mpanga Forest Reserve. Unfortunately so did a lot of clouds.

**Our Trusty Land Cruiser – two seats up front and six in the back – with a pop top**

With the threat of rain seeming certain, we began birding and cautiously added only a few species to our trip list. But apparently the birds knew that rain was coming and it very quiet and birds, if active at all, were seeking shelter. Photo ops were non-existent in the wind, under gray skies and with birds hiding in the brush. I got glimpses only of two species that would have been nice to photograph: Brown-throated and Green-throated Sunbirds, the former a lifer. Then the threat of rain became actual rain, starting slow and picking up to a pretty hard downpour. We tried to wait it out for 30 minutes, but no go – so we left. This would be our only rain of the tour so hardly a reason for complaint, but still a disappointment as in addition to the two sunbirds, it was supposed to be a good place for Green-backed Twinspot and Fire-crested Alethe – two would-be lifers.

We continued on with a few brief birding stops or observations along Masaka Road with the best being a field with 100+ Gray Crowned Cranes – the National bird of Uganda. We also had what would turn out to be our only look at a Lilac-breasted Roller, one of the most beautiful birds anywhere and maybe the most frequently photographed bird in Africa. No photos this time, but I had many from previous African trips. We finally arrived at Lake Mburu National Park, birding first along the entrance road and then in the park itself – now under clear skies. We added lots of new Uganda birds at both places but no new lifers and in part because of the camera time error and maybe some other mishap on my part, I have not been able to find/retrieve many photos from this day – noting however, that I have photos from later for all of the species we saw then. One of the photos I did find was of an African Penduline-tit – a life photo but not a lifer. Two other photos are from a little pond outside the park where several birds were seen together. Good photo ops for African Woolly-necked Stork and one of my favorites, Saddle Billed Stork.

**Gray-crowned Crane – National Bird of Uganda**

This was the first day when we would see some large mammals which are what most people associate with Africa – albeit just a small taste of what would come later. We saw our first Zebra, Warthogs, and a variety of species of antelope: Topi, Impala, Bushbuck and Defassa Waterbuck, the latter would be the antelope seen most often throughout the trip.

We moved to the Mantana Tented Camp for the night. Very much like the Kubu Kubu Tented Camp in Tanzania, this was not my idea of a tent. It was a significant if somewhat soft walled structure on a wood platform with nettings and zip up doors and a zip up wall dividing the sleeping area from the self contained bathroom with shower and flush toilet. As would turn out to be the case in some other accommodations, the only internet service (wi-fi) was at the main hall/reception/dining room and there was limited if any ability to charge electronic devices except there as well. These were NOT major issues but were another example of a difference between our lodgings in Tanzania and in Uganda. We were the only people at the camp and were treated very well by friendly, competent and gracious staff. Showers were by hot water that was delivered at whatever time was requested. It took a little tinkering to get the mix between hot and cold water right but the water pressure and availability was great. As with everywhere else in Uganda (and in Tanzania as well), bottled water was provided for drinking and tooth brushing etc.

June 18

Today would feature another boat ride – this time motorized as we would explore part of Lake Mburo NP, starting at the Nyarutegura River mouth. There were many of what I would call water-oriented birds, but the majority of of the birds seen were on the land adjacent to the lake. Over 4+ hours we had 66 species with photos of almost half. Ten were lifers and 14 were life photos. Without question, the most special of the birds seen, and one on my ten most wanted list for the trip, was the African Finfoot. It took some doing and lots of luck, but I was able to get a decent photo of the Finfoot running on a log showing its huge finned feet.

Many of the views were distant and of small birds in foliage, so not as many great photos as I would like, but as has been the case with all of my birding boat rides, being able to see the birds from the water was great. Not going to include all the photos – just a sampling.

I am including these Barbet pictures not because they are great photos, but because Barbets are one of my favorite groups of birds – found in South America, Africa and Asia – all with something special.

That afternoon birding continued in the National Park and Cindy was finally feeling a bit of jet lag so she sat this trip out. This would hopefully not turn out to be a big mistake as we saw more mammals and had really great close encounters with some giraffes – one of her favorite animals. At first we saw only a couple off in the distance and I was not worried about what she had missed. Later we had giraffes very close and I debated whether I should tell her. Fortunately it was a moot point as we would have excellent intersections with these amazing animals again.

We had good birds as well including lifer Sooty Chat and Tabora Cisticola. Altogether we had 50 species, of which only 8 were new for the trip including Bare-faced Go-Away Bird, African Scops Owl, Common Scimitarbill and Gray-headed Kingfisher, but together with the morning birding in the park our day list was 92 species. We spent another night in our “tents” and then the next morning we would head off to the Gorilla Mist Camp in Ruhija and the promise of Mountain Gorillas.

June 19

Our bags were packed and we ready to go with a relatively late (7:30 a.m.) start for more birding in Lake Mburo NP and then our trip to Ruhija and Gorilla-land. In 2 1/2 hours we had 42 species including 8 new species for our tour list, no lifers but one life photo – White-chinned Prinia. My photo of a Red-faced Crombec was not new but any photo of the tiny little tail-less crombecs is appreciated.

An Aside: As all birders know, there are rarely guarantees that a species will be seen at a given time or place. Weather, time of day, luck and other factors may produce very different bird lists for the same place comparing one year to another. In their descriptions of their tours, the tour companies generally provide a list in one form or another of birds that might be seen at various stops on the tour. We had seen a lot of birds, good birds at Lake Mburo NP including the prized African Finfoot. It was interesting, however, in retrospect to compare our Lake Mburo list with the birds named in the list of species “recorded in the park” included in VENT”S promotional materials. Not included were any of the three nightjars that we observed, but 17 of the species that were listed (more than 1/3) were not observed – 3 of which would have been lifers. The list of birds from the park had NO impact on my decision to take this trip and the same result would be found from any promotional material for any bird tour. By our nature, we want to see all the birds that are possible, but we know that is rarely if ever the case. If we had spent another day or two or three at the park, I bet we would have seen some if not many of the “missed” birds. The only reason I included this “aside” is because I am planning some future trips and I was thinking about my priorities and expectations. Bottom line here is that as long as we found that Finfoot, I was going to be happy – even a crappy view would have sufficed. We did much better than that with great views of more than one Finfoot and a total of 120 species in the Park – even without those from the “recorded in the park” list that were not found.

It was a long and somewhat torturous drive from Mburo to Ruhija – about 4 hours much of which was on two lane roads, mostly dirt and winding through a number of small villages/towns, some very rough and with many slow going trucks slowing things down. Thus as was as stated in an earlier post, this was a very different experience than Tanzania where we had much less intersection with the towns. Rather than go into details here, there will be a separate post about day to day life in Uganda, at least as seen by us in our transit through these towns. This was definitely not 1st world travel as the towns were very busy, crowded with small shops, markets, and people, lots of people – carrying goods, on motorbikes and bicycles, mostly on foot, basic housing, and then more of the same. Between the towns, there were still many people on foot and often children on the way to or from school or just together with their mothers or each other – almost always waving and smiling as they noted our presence. As I said much more on this later in a blog illustrated mostly with Cindy’s pictures. There were intermittent stops along the way as we saw a bird here or there, on wires, in the brush or trees, on the road, in the papyrus and then on the Bwindi Forest Road approaching our lodging for the nights ahead at the Gorilla Mist Camp. In Bwindi, I added 5 lifers, not especially well seen or heard only – too often the case over the next days as well, but there were some photo ops as well. There were 36 new species for the trip – evidence of how speciation is so related to habitat change.

We were only a third of the way through the tour itinerary and we had 215 species. I had added 34 lifers and at least as many life photos. As I planned for the trip, my hopes were for at least 100 lifers and maybe as many as 150 as a long shot. I also hoped for at least that many life photos with most being of those life birds and then others species I had seen previously in Africa without a photo. At this point, it wasn’t clear if those goals would be met. The next day we would find out if another goal would be met. Would we see a Mountain Gorilla?

Uganda – Starting the Tour at Entebbe and then our first Shoebill and more at the Mabamba Swamp

Posted on July 23, 2024August 15, 2025 by blairbirding

The promotional material for the Victor Emanuel Nature Tours trip to Uganda indicated “Uganda is safe and delightfully friendly. As a country it has undergone astonishing changes in recent decades. Infrastructure improvements to the roads, lodges and development programs for the local guides have made wildlife touring in Uganda one of the best experiences possible in the natural history world.” It continued with the note that there would be opportunities in this country where the African savannah meets the African jungle, for lions and elephants, crocodiles and hippos, leopards and giraffes, chimpanzees and mountain gorillas, many other primates and other mammals and lots of birds including the iconic Shoebill, kingfishers, hornbills, turacos, trogons, sunbirds and weavers – maybe 450 species of birds in all.

For better or worse, Cindy and I had had a wonderful trip to Tanzania with up close encounters with the Big Five, cheetahs, thousands of mammals, wonderful places to stay, beautiful scenery and super people – both traveling companions and Tanzanians and wonderful and numerous birds. The Tanzania trip set high expectations, a high bar to meet. We had not appreciated it at the time we signed on for Uganda, but there would be two major differences in the nature of the trip itself. One was that there would be a lot more time spent in the jungle/forest in Uganda with birding more challenging and sometimes frustrating as a result and another was that there would also be a lot more travel through small villages and towns in Uganda compared to travel time spent mostly in and between savannah like National Parks in Tanzania. There were pluses and minuses comparing the two environments. The tourism industry is relatively new in Uganda whereas it is well established in Tanzania, and the associated infrastructure is far more (and better) developed in Tanzania. Roads and lodges in Uganda were a level or two below Tanzania. A real problem? No. Noted? Yes.

That said, our first days and nights at the Boma Hotel Guesthouse in Entebbe were great. Very comfortable room, good food, terrific people, beautiful gardens and a great location in a safe and in some cases, upper class neighborhood with an odd combination of dirt roads and large, elegant, gated homes. We had a full day and a half to acclimatize before the formal trip began, our choice since the travel time from Seattle to Uganda was over 20 hours and there was a ten hour time difference (Uganda being ten hours ahead). It was a good decision as we got some time for a short nap and time to walk around and bird in the neighborhood in addition to some leisure time and birding at the Boma as well.

June 14

It was the morning of June 14th and the weather was a perfect 75 degrees without a cloud in sight or much humidity. Indeed weather on the trip was consistently great with there being rain on one morning or a couple of nights as we slept. The formal beginning of the trip was dinner on the 15th and it was two early for a nap, so we birded the gardens at the Boma Guesthouse which offered lots of birds and then had a leisurely walk around the neighborhood which added more. Our first finds included a Woodland Kingfisher, Hadada Ibis, two sunbirds (Red and Scarlet Chested), Gray Parrots and a White Browed Coucal.

We also met two very interesting people on the walk. The first was an “older bearded gentleman” who started by speaking French to us. I responded with my very limited French and made it clear that we were American so he switched to English – who knows how many languages he spoke. We learned that he had served as a bodyguard to the former Uganda strongman Idi Amin. Not sure of his politics now but he was proud to be a Ugandan. Later on a street with many large homes – all gated – we saw a very fit and handsome man in uniform carrying an automatic rifle. His serious look turned to a smile when I told him he was the most handsome man we had seen (he was). We had a long chat in English and learned that he was hired as private security for the neighborhood and had trained with Navy Seals in Washington State and he was familiar with our hometown of Edmonds – what a surprising coincidence. We returned to the Boma and finally had that catch up snooze.

We were back out for another walk in the afternoon and I added the first lifer for the trip – a spectacular Ross’s Turaco – right on the Boma grounds. We also had Eastern Plantain-eaters and our first of many White-browed Robin-chats. All told we had 19 species for the day – a great intro to the Birds of Uganda.

June 15

After dinner at the Boma Guesthouse, we had a surprisingly easy and good night’s sleep and were up and ready to go at a pretty normal time in the morning. We revisited the neighborhood around the Boma and had another 19 species on our hour long walk. One was a Rameron Pigeon that Ebird said was rare for the area – but I could document it with a photo. The most striking bird was a Black Headed Gonolek and the cutest was a Red-cheeked Cordonbleu. As would be the case for most birds on the trip, due to my previous birding in Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa, none of these birds were lifers, but I was also interested in adding photos to my life photo list. None of the aforementioned birds were new to that list, but I did add a photo of an African Thrush.

That afternoon, we met our tour guide, Dion Hobcroft, who had been my guide on a VENT tour in India in 2011, and the other two members of our group. We spent several hours birding on the grounds of the guesthouse seeing many species we had seen earlier and adding many more including lifers Green White-eye (no photo yet), African Hobby (quick flyover), Splendid Starling and Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird. I also had life photos of Double Toothed Barbet and Brown-throated Wattle-eye.

**Brown-throated Wattle-eye – Life Photo**

By the end of the day, my Uganda list was at 44 species. Cindy and I both felt good after the long flight and the time adjustment. We were together with the group and had had some good food. We did not know it at the time, but we should probably have made an effort to get to an ATM machine in Entebbe, a major city adjacent to the Ugandan capital of Kampala. There was a commercial area not far from the Boma which would have worked. Too late. The birding had been pretty easy and the birds were mostly in the open and some were even charismatic or even spectacular – the kind most appreciated by Cindy. As is the norm on birding trips, there would be an early start the next day and we would be off to the Mabamba Wetlands and our first boat trip on the tour with our major target being a Shoebill.

June 16

This was the official stat of our tour and there was a major addition as we were now joined by our Ugandan guide who also was the driver of our Land Cruiser for the trip. Veronica Nakafeero would be with us for the first half of the trip. She was proof of the success of the program to develop young bird guides, especially young woman bird guides in Uganda. She would deftly handle the challenging roads ahead and was an excellent spotter and identifier of birds along the way, and also good company – a great addition to the group.

We were on the road around 6 a.m. and our first birds were two Great Blue Turacos – spectacular and out in the open. Shortly thereafter, we added another gorgeous bird and another lifer for me – Papyrus Gonolek, a species which was high on my “want list” and then two minutes later another lifer – a Lizard Buzzard. I had the feeling this was going to be a very good day.

We got to the Mabamba Swamp and Wetlands around 8 a.m. and got on our small boat with our guide at the front and an oarsman at the back. It was the perfect craft to explore the wetlands and to get close to the many birds making it their home. We spent several hours there logging in 50 species and I was able to get photos of more than half of them. This is the best place in Africa, probably in the world, to find a Shoebill, a simply incredible bird. There were several treats along the way, but it did not take too long to find a Shoebill, as there were already several boats stopped along one of the many channels with passengers focused on this magnificent bird. Our guide pointed ahead and she expertly guided us to a good position for views and photos. You can see a photo of a Shoebill and easily acknowledge how unique they are, but seeing one in person is many times better, hard to believe they are real, looking like some prehistoric creature. I took more than 100 photos and could have chosen almost any to include here. Remember that they can be 5 feet tall, weigh 12 pounds (a lot for a bird with flight) and have a wingspan of 7.5 feet. They can remain motionless for long periods of time before grabbing a lungfish, its favorite prey. This lifer was definitely one of the highlights of the trip – and it was only formally day 1.

**Shoebill – Is It a Bird or a Prehistoric Monster?**

We watched the Shoebill for 30 minutes, and it was very hard to say goodbye, but other birds beckoned. It would take too long to chronicle them all. I have chosen some of the better photos but am leaving out some really nice birds.

There are 9 species of Lovebirds in the world. I have seen 4 species including the Rosy-faced Lovebird as an introduced species in both Arizona and Hawaii. All 9 are native to Africa or Madagascar. Last year in Tanzania, I added Fischer’s and Yellow-collared Lovebirds to my life list in and this day I added the Red-headed Lovebird. They are small to medium sized parrots with large heads and are definitely “cute”. The only other parrots seen in Uganda were Meyer’s and Gray Parrots both of which I had seen previously.

There were two other lifers seen at Mabamba Swamp – Blue-headed Coucal and Lesser Jacana. Missing a photo of the former was just stupid on my part. By the time I realized the coucal that I was watching was Blue-headed and not White-browed, it flew off. Opportunity lost. The Lesser Jacana was a success. It is a difficult bird to find and particularly difficult to photograph as it is very jumpy and does not let you get close. It flies off quickly and disappears in the grass. We found two – neither close and I was lucky to get at least ID quality flight shots – highly enlarged.

One last picture and story from the Mabamba Swamp. In Tanzania at Gibb’s Farm I had my lifer African Blue Flycatcher, a very lovely all blue bird. Don’t ask why, but it was just after lunch and I did not have my camera. We never saw another one, so I was sure to get a photo when I saw one at Mabamba Swamp. Unfortunately it took off just as I got onto it, not the greatest but a lifer photo nonetheless.

After our great boat ride we would return to the Boma Guesthouse with some stops along the way including at Nkima Forest Lodge where we had lunch and picked up a Crowned Hornbill and White Spotted Flufftail. Neither were lifers and I had photos of both but added the Hornbill to my Uganda photo list. Later we added Long-crested Eagle and White Hooded Vulture on the road and then at the end of the day, we birded the Entebbe Botanical Garden – often a great birding spot and we did have 37 species, but Dion said it was slower than usual. Our best species was a Bat Hawk. I thought I had a photo but cannot find one – a big disappointment. Other lifers for me were an Orange Weaver and an Olive-bellied Sunbird. The former was very distant and I had only a brief scope view. We also had our first Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill.

At the end of the day, my Uganda list stood at 96 species and I had added 16 species to my World Life list and about the same to my world photo list. The Shoebill was the highlight and the boat trip was a complete success – equally enjoyed by Cindy who continued to revel at the Shoebill sighting as well as the Kingfishers. We had grilled tilapia for dinner – tasting better than we remembered it from elsewhere. We were ready for more.

Birds and Wine in Chile and Argentina – Closing Out the Trip Back in Chile

Posted on March 10, 2024August 15, 2025 by blairbirding

February 15 – Day 13:

On the evening of February 14th, after our flight from Mendoza back to Santiago, we loaded back onto the van with Ugo and drove to Vina Del Mar on the Pacific Coast. Along the way we added one bird for the trip – a drive by view of a White-tailed Kite. I knew we were ending our trip on the coast and was looking forward to adding new birds and relaxing by the ocean. Not at all doing my homework, I envisioned a quaint little beach town like the one I had enjoyed with Greg Homel in Jalisco, Mexico back in December. Not the case – not by a long shot. As we got close, all I could see were lights- thousands of lights. To the South were the thousands of lights of Valparaiso and to the North where we were headed were the thousands of lights of Vina del Mar. Valparaiso is the port and harbor city and Vina del Mar is the beach city and also the effective administrative capital of Chile, with Santiago being the actual capital.

Each of the two cities have populations over 325,000 and the population of the combined Metropolitan area is almost 1 million. Additionally it was a holiday weekend and there was a music festival in Vina del Mar. As we drove steeply down to the center of Vina del Mar, there were people everywhere – on the streets, on the sidewalks, in long lines in front of every restaurant, cafe and bar. I don’t like crowds – especially in unfamiliar places and especially when unexpected – a kind of claustrophobia. Even in the van, I felt uneasy like I was being swallowed up, a mini-panic attack. There was absolutely no danger as it was just crowds of people having a good time and not a mob of any kind, but I felt very uncomfortable. So much for a quaint relaxing oceanside visit. The discomfort did not disappear when we dismissed any plan to eat at a restaurant in town and stopped at a convenience store to get “dinner” in the form of once again a chicken sandwich being essentially two pieces of white bread with mayonnaise and a few slices of chicken. (Actually no complaint about that – I had one before and it was actually tasty and a lot less calories than our typical dinner extravaganzas.) Even the convenience store was mobbed and I just wanted to get out of there and hoped that what had been described as a quiet hotel north of town would be just that.

We would be staying at the Hotel Oceanic which while only a few miles north of the bustling city, was actually mostly quiet – except for the crashing waves as we were in fact right on the ocean. Marcelo was right on when he said that someday a developer would grab the hotel and turn it into a resort. In the meantime, it was comfortable if somewhat dated and the views were nice indeed. It was dark and late. I ate my sandwich and went to bed in a comfortable room, the anxiety from the shock of hitting what seemed like the chaos of Vina del Mar was gone.

Early on the tour I asked Marcelo if we would have a good chance for views and photos of an Inca Tern, a truly cool bird. His response was that we would be able to see them from our rooms at our hotel in Vina del Mar. He was right as looking out onto the ocean from the room, some terns flew by – generally in the company of many Kelp Gulls. Early on the morning of the 15th, before breakfast, I grabbed my camera and went looking for a place in the hotel where I might get a good photo. Down two flights there was a porch that could not have been better – both for views out to the ocean and also to a support wall of the hotels where many Inca Terns were perched – less than 25 feet away. I also grabbed quick shots of a Kelp Gull and an American Oystercatcher.

All of these species were new for Chile and for the trip but I had seen and photographed all before, but the single Inca Tern photo I had from Peru was awful. I was very pleased with this pre-breakfast photo session and knew there was more to come. We had a good leisurely breakfast and I made sure the others knew of the photo porch downstairs – visited by all after the meal. I joined them and while they focused on the Inca Terns, I grabbed a quick life photo of a Peruvian Booby.

We would be heading off to bird at the beautiful and very birdy Humedal Park at the mouth of the Maipo River south of Valparaiso. The map below shows the spot and looks like it is almost closer to Santiago than to Vina del Mar – proof in any event that it would be possible to include it in a day trip from the capital city.

Birding at Humedal was terrific and the park really was spectacular – with the best boardwalk I have ever seen, restrooms and info center and beautiful signage. And the birds were terrific.

In the early morning at the hotel I had a glimpse at a lifer Blackish Oystercatcher flying by – actually 4 of them, but had not gotten a photo. There was another, along with American Oystercatchers at Humedal but again no photo. The first lifer with a photo was a Snowy-crowned Tern, hidden amongst a large flock of Black Skimmers, and that was followed by a distant photo of a South American Tern. And we also had a couple of Elegant Terns, with their super long orange bills and “elegant” head crowns – also new for the trip.

A photo I was very happy to get was of a Coscoroba Swan. I had seen this species in the Junin area on my first visit to Argentina in 1989 – no photo. Then we had seen two in the great distance in Argentina a few days earlier – again no photo. They are not spectacular as swans go, but the photo even though distant brought a lifer photo smile. And being on a shore, not surprisingly there were lots of shorebirds -11 species: Blackish and American Oystercatchers, Black-Necked Stilts, Baird’s Sandpipers, Sanderlings Hudsonian Godwits, Whimbrels, Greater Yellowlegs, a Semipalmated Plover, a Southern Lapwing, and a larger plover that was either a Black-bellied Plover or Golden Plover – too distant to tell for sure. In addition to the Kelp Gulls seen earlier, we now added a few Brown-hooded Gulls, misidentified as Franklin’s Gulls at the time and indeed many hundred Franklin’s Gulls (better pictures of them tomorrow).

Exactly 24 years and 11 months before this day I had seen a Thorn-tailed Rayadito in Junin, Argentina – no photo. It took a lot of work and if I had more skill the result would have been better, but I managed to get a photo of one this morning. Taking even longer but with much better results, I also managed nice photos of a lifer DeMurs’s Wiretail in very similar dense foliage. Marcelo recognized the call and got it going in a back and forth conversation with his recording, but it took many moments for it to show itself. When it did, it was quite a show. I wish the Plain-mantled Tit-tyrant and Ticking Doradito had been as cooperative. They sounded off but remained hidden – at least for me. Both would have been life photos.

**A Welcomed but Pretty Poor Lifer Photo of a Neat Little Bird**

There were two more lifers at Humedal this morning: Chilean Pigeon – distant, and Guanay Cormorant – a very distant flyby called out by Marcelo and seen for perhaps a half second by me. I would get another look – equally distant the next day with a barely ID quality photo.

Sometimes even though the bird has been seen and photographed many times, the setting on a photo makes it special. I have commented before how much everyone liked the Spectacled Tyrants. We saw several at Humedal, but the one on the park sign was the star of the show without doubt. A couple of seconds later a Correndera Pipit flew in for a nice photo, too.

Time for lunch – but we would return for a bit afterwards. It had been a great morning with 6 lifers – closing in on 100 for the trip. We were also closing in on 100 species for Chile and were now over 200 species for the trip. Lunch would be at our last winery for the tour – the Matetic Winery. The grounds at the winery were beautiful and although there were no new lifers, I got some nice photos including a life photo of a Dark-bellied Cinclodes, which I had seen almost 35 years earlier in Argentina. And although it had been several times before, i finally got a good and life photo of a Chilean Swallow.

Again not new, but a good photo series was of one of the Long-tailed Meadowlarks feeding on the grass – back, front and side views.

The lunch was wine filled and wonderful. Chile is better known for its white wines than for its reds with a definite exception being for the Carmenere grape and Carmenere wine. This grape was rediscovered in Chile after it had completely died out in Europe from a root disease. But at Matetic they were most proud of their Syrah and their Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. We had all three at lunch and they were superb. I had a shrimp risotto that was perfect.

Our last stop for the day was at a small pond/estuary which Ebird noted as Estero el Totoral and which I believe Marcelo called Quebrada de Cordova. There were a number of people at the small pond and many others walking along the path that we birded, maybe somewhat affecting our birding. Mike Warner immediately noted a “different looking coot” at the “pond”. Good spotting as it was a lifer Spot-flanked Gallinule. Although we would “have” two more lifers at this non-descript place, they were definitely not as cooperative. A small green hummingbird that darted by was a Green-backed Firecrown. The look lasted all of one second and that was it. At least I saw it. Marcelo’s main quest was a White-throated Tapaculo. Looking for all the world like a small brown wren with a heavy supercilium and a striped chest, it played with us for 30 minutes – actually they played with us as there were at least two and probably three. It called to the left of us, to the right of us, across the stream, back behind us and then from all those places again. The best I ever saw was movement of a little brown object in foliage on the ground across the river. Sometimes, it seemed just feet away. It never came out fully into the open. The song was a clear ID, but it sure would have been nice to get a great view and better yet a photo. The photo of the Gallinule below is mine, the Tapaculo was taken by someone else.

***White-throated Tapaculo*** – Ebird Photo by Jaime Mancilla

As we left, I got a photo of a Blue and White Swallow – first time my photo of this swallow on the trip was recognizable as such. It had been a really good birding day with the 9 lifers bringing my trip total to 97 with some nice photos in addition to those misses. The Chile list was up to 99 and the trip list to 207. We would have a half day of birding on the 16th and then would head back to Santiago where everyone except Cindy, me and Marcelo would be dropped at the airport for flights home. The three of us would be leaving the next day. We went back to our hotel for a brief refresh and then we had “The Last Supper”, our final big meal of the trip at the Tierra del Fuego Restaurant on the waterfront in Vina del Mar.

February 16, Day 14:

I do not recall what the original plan had been, but Marcelo said there would be a change to enable us to see penguins. These iconic birds are found only in the Southern oceans most notably on or near Antarctica. The only penguins I had seen were African Penguins in South Africa in 2014, so I was happy with this decision although was not sure if there was a trade-off for other possibilities going north to the penguin colony.

Our first birding stop was at Renaca Playa Cochoa, a beach at the north end of Vina del Mar with a large rock offshore. I picked up two lifers – a Seaside Cinclodes and a Red-legged Cormorant, the latter posing very close and the latter very distant almost at the top of the offshore rock. There were other good birds and photo ops as well including my lifer photos of Blackish Oystercatcher which had been seen but not photographed the previous day.

The photos of the Blackish Oystercatchers show well the difference between them and our Black Oystercatcher of the Northwest. The heads and bills are essentially the same but the body feathers of the Blackish Oystercatcher are notably browner – and the feet are paler. At this spot we also had other birds familiar from the U.S. – Surfbirds and Ruddy Turnstones – both new for the trip and the Surfbirds, my first is South America.

Our last stop for the day and for the tour would be at a breeding colony for the Humboldt Penguin – a lifer for everyone except Marcelo. On the way we passed by a wetland/estuary where a small group of Coscoroba Swans were resting. The photo was far superior than the one from the previous day.

We accessed the penguin colony through the high-end private Cachagua Gated Community, and walked to an overlook. The light was not great with a light mist and we could not get real close, but penguins are unmistakable and we had great scope views and a chance for some relatively poor photos, that we were pleased to get at all. It was my world lifer #100 for the trip – a fitting end. The photos of the Humboldt Penguins were not great, but the life photo of a distant Guanay Cormorant in flight was even worse. I will probably never seen one again – so glad to get anything. Far better were photos of the abundant cormorant of the area – a Neotropic Cormorant with wings extended, a far better photo of a Peruvian Pelican than I had gotten in Peru in 2013 and of two Seaside Cinclodes displaying below us. Lastly a photo of some Franklin’s Gulls in flight caught three adult birds nearing full breeding plumage with nearly full black heads, white eye arcs and pink bellies.

***Highly Magnified Photo of Two Humboldt Penguins – Lifers***

We had a last lunch on the way back to Santiago with an excellent Carmenere Wine – a fitting close to the wine part of the tour to go with the Humboldt Penguins as a fitting close to the birding part. After dropping the others at the airport, Marcelo, Cindy and I returned to the Hyatt Place Hotel in Santiago. Marcelo left early the next morning. We had a late night flight and the Hotel allowed us a late check out. The hotel really treated us well and we are very thankful. As had been the case throughout the trip, Marcelo attended to every detail and arranged for an Uber to pick us up at the hotel and take us to the airport. He was there right on time and we returned to the airport, where we luxuriated in the gorgeous LATAM Airline Lounge until our flight departed around 11. The flight to Miami was long but pleasant. Unfortunately we had a very long layover at the Miami Airport and since we were flying back to Seattle on Alaska Airlines which has only two flights out of Miami – both late, we were not able to check bags and get through security for many hours. So we camped out and killed time and were happy to finally get onboard for the long flight home.

In Summation – Post Mortem

It is hard to believe that it has now been almost three weeks since our return. Especially since I have spent many hours since that return working on photos and these blog pots, much is fresh or refreshed in my mind. That said, partly due to my aging brain also to what I would call the “density” of the trip, details are fading. There were so many great meals with both great food and great wines, like some of our best wines they are blending into fine memories but with the component parts indistinct. On a scorecard reviewing the trip I would give exceptional high marks to Field Guides, Marcelo Padua, most of our accommodations, to wine and food in both Argentina and Chile, and to almost everyone we met along the way, certainly our tour companions, but also drivers (well one exception), everyone at wineries, restaurants, hotels and shops. LATAM Airlines was great. Alaska Airlines was fine, but no comparison to LATAM. The Santiago Airport was fine. We hated the Miami airport – even without the “lost” wallet incident.

While not a fan of Vina del Mar, we really enjoyed the little we saw of Santiago, Chile and loved the countryside, especially in the Andes, in both countries. This was a “bird” and “wine” trip. The birds were generally as expected both in quantity and quality. Not the spectacular birds of the tropics and more brown and gray birds than would be ideal, but Marcelo was terrific in finding and identifying them and the 100 World Lifers and even more life photos were in the range I expected. We had not had much experience with wines from this region and are no means wine experts (and definitely not wine snobs) but we left with a great appreciation of these wines, this wine region and of wines and wine-making in general.

Just as choosing a best bird would be difficult, so, too would it be difficult to choose a best wine. In the running for best birds would be the Diademed Sandpiper-plover, the Elegant-crested Tinamou, the Inca Terns and the Humboldt Penguins. As to the wines, the Chardonnays at the beginning of the trip in Chile stood out to me. Malbecs, Cabernet Sauvignons and especially the mix of the two were favorites in Argentina. Back in Chile again, we loved the Carmeneres, and Cindy was especially fond of the Sauvignon Blancs – which surprised her. The wonderful dinners and lunches are impossible to recall accurately but we both agree that a luscious chocolate mousse may be the most memorable dessert and for something truly different, the Duck Confit Marcelo made on an open fire was awesome. We lost track of the number of empanadas we had on the trip. We were first exposed to them in Ecuador. Afterwards, Cindy perfected her own version. The ones on this trip were always a welcome sight.

Would we take this trip again? No. But only because we have so many other places to visit and time is running out. But we would recommend it to anyone except to someone whose sole goal was list building – just not enough lifers probably. We will consider another wine and birds trip to another location and would definitely be happy to see Marcelo Padua again.

ONE CAVEAT – there is simply no way to take this tour without significant weight gain – just too much food and wine. I have now starved myself to lose the ten pounds I put on. I want to lose more, but am starting to drink wine again – Chilean and Argentinian are fortunately readily available nearby.

Final Counts:

Chile – 105 species seen – 78 with photos – 37 species lifers

Argentina – 153 species seen – 119 with photos – 63 species lifers

Tour total – 212 species – 181 with photos – 100 species lifers/116 photo lifers

Birds and Wines of Chile and Argentina – Argentina Part III

Posted on March 6, 2024March 7, 2024 by blairbirding

February 11, Day 8:

We were back on the road again in the area around Mendoza in the Uco Valley, Argentina – another beautiful day. A word about weather. All in all the weather was great. The only rain was night. Days were generally clear and dry, sometimes a little cloudiness, little wind and temperatures mostly in the low 80’s but sometimes getting into the 90’s. Even in the higher elevations, it was never very cold and we could have left our colder weather gear at home – if we had known for sure. Even though there was generally sun, photo ops were not always perfect as too often birds were backlit or seen against light sky backgrounds. This was Cindy’s first trip with her new camera – the Sony RX10 – a fabulous bridge camera with zoom that went up to 600 mm. It was an experimental learning experience and she did great.

After breakfast we were packed and birding before 9:00 a.m. – very civilized – although some of the “delay” was because the restaurant at the hotel (again not our favorite) was very slow to get going – with everything out at least 15 minutes later than scheduled. At our first stop on Ruta Provincial #186, a Sandy Gallito was added to our trip list and to my World list and world photo list. We also got great photos of Southern Martins, indistinguishable to me from Purple Martins which fly overhead of us back in Edmonds in the Summer.

A short while later at a “rest stop”, we had one of the best birds of the trip, an Elegant Crested-Tinamou. While attending to other needs, I almost missed it. Although it had moved from the “even better view” earlier, it fortunately stayed in the area and I was able to get some photos. It would have been very disappointing had I missed this very cool bird.

There are more than 45 species of Tinamou – found only in Central and South America. Although they can fly, they are essentially terrestrial birds, often skulky, most often in forested habitats although some like this one are found in the open plains, and usually well camouflaged and hard to see. They range in size from the Dwarf Tinamou (6 inches or so) to the Great Tinamou (about 20 inches) – somewhat larger than the Elegant Crested-Tinamou we were fortunate to see. Earlier, we had heard but not seen the Darwin’s Nothura – another species in the Tinamou group. I have seen or heard 10 species of tinamou but have few photos. Again very happy to get these!!

We left the dry grasslands and found some water and water birds at Laguna Llancanelo Provincial Park. Lots of new birds for the trip with more to come at another wetland after lunch – and I am combining those two stops here. All told 14 new species for my Argentina list and 7 new lifers with lots of photo ops. The lifers were: Lake Duck, Chilean Flamingo, Red-fronted Coot, Yellow-billed Tit-tyrant, Yellow-winged Blackbird, Red Shoveler and Correndera Pipit. Three new Argentina birds that I had seen elsewhere but were nice here were the Many-colored Rush Tyrant, Wren-like Rushbird and Grassland Yellow-finch. Much better photos of some of these species will be in later entries. I am also including more photos of Spectacled Tyrant – a group favorite on the trip.

***Yellow-winged Blackbird*** (It was surprisingly hard to get photo showing the yellow in the wing – hardly visible except in flight)

**Spectacled Tyrant (showing whit in wing)**

Lunch today was a significant departure from our usual approach – although of course there was lots of wine. Today would be a picnic – well sort of. We learned that in addition to his knowledge of birds and wines, guide and tour leader Marcelo Padua was also quite the cook. He and driver Ariel teamed to prepare an extraordinary duck confit lunch prepared over an open fire – sort of in the middle of nowhere. Not really, just felt that way. We were at Campo Carcilauquen Horse Camp sharing the habitat with quite a few equestrians. I will let the photos speak for themselves.

**Marcelo and Ariel at Work over the Open Fire**

**The finished product …Duck Breast, salad and native grown potato chips – Scrumptious!!**

As I said, some of the birds and photos were out of order – coming after the duck lunch. I will close the birding photos with two more from later in the day – ones that I really luck. As we were tooling along, I saw a large bird on a post and asked to go back. Somehow it stayed as we pulled alongside and we were all able to get really nice photos of an Aplomado Falcon. The other photo is of one of the many American Kestrels we saw on the trip, caught as it was coming in for a landing.

Definitely my best ever photo of an **Aplomado Falcon**

Unfortunately we had a second night at the Hotel Malargue and then an early breakfast (for this trip) and on the road with a really fun day ahead.

February 12, Day 9:

We headed out on Ruta 40 – which seemed to be viewed there something like Route 66 in the U.S. – lots of T-Shirts and souvenirs at gas stops calling that out. This was not going to be a day with lots of birds, but one of them was really important. I got a distant view of a West Peruvian Dove – new for the trip and for Argentina, but seen (and fortunately photographed) 11 years earlier appropriately in Peru – go figure! Motoring further along on Ruta 40, Marcelo called out “Pare, pare”. Ariel stop[ped as requested and we wondered what had been seen. It was a species we had been looking for for several days – a Lesser Rhea – along with the Greater Rhea, South America’s answer to the Ostrich of Africa and the Emu’s of Australia. Also known as Darwin’s Rhea, the flightless Lesser Rhea stands around 3 feet tall and weighs around 40 pounds. A bonus for us was that this was a male and he had young in tow. Males incubate the eggs and then cares for the young for six months or longer. I had seen Greater Rheas in Brazil, and have seen Ostrich and Emu, so I was especially happy to complete the set.

A little further along several small birds flew next to us along the road. My impression was that they were pipits. One landed on a fence post and I was able to get a life photo of the Correndera Pipit through the window. I had seen the species in flight a day earlier, so much better to have the photo.

As I said slow birding this day, but our lunch stop and wine tour was sensational as we visited the La Vigilia vineyard and had lunch at the beyond beautiful Rope Restaurant associated with the winery. It was such a great place I am including lots of photos so people can appreciate that. The food, service and wines were all superb and the setting incredible.

After a very long lunch break, we birded a bit and I added two more lifers, a Glittering-bellied Emerald and a Rufous-tailed Plantcutter. No photo of the hummingbird until later in the trip. My photo that day of the Plantcutter is ID quality at best, so I am including one again from later. Interesting note, that there are three species of Plantcutters – all found only in South America – and currently classified as Cotingas. I included the White-tipped Plantcutter in an earlier post. I saw the third Plantcutter species, the Peruvian Plantcutter in Peru in 2013.

We carried on to Mendoza City with a stop at the Market Manzano Historico. Lots of people having a good time outdoors with some food and trinket booths – a sharp contrast with the luxury of the Rope Restaurant. That night was at the Hotel Huentala in Mendoza. Counting on more but now at 76 lifers for the trip and 143 species for the trip. Hope to get to benchmarks 100 and 200.

Birds and Wines of Chile and Argentina – Argentina Part II

Posted on March 5, 2024 by blairbirding

February 9, Day 6:

We had settled in to the beautiful Salentein Lodge and Winery. We had for us an early morning start birding around the winery at 7:00 a.m. picking up 7 lifers in around 2 hours. The Crested Gallito and Brown Cachalote were seen briefly or heard only but I would get good looks and photos of them later. Then there were the two “Creamy Birds”, Creamy-breasted Canastero and Creamy-bellied Thrush– I thought I had a photo of each but cannot find them possibly confused with other “brown bird” photos. The other lifers were White-banded Mockingbird, Screaming Cowbird, and Ringed Warbling Finch. Here are their photos.

No surprise the breakfast at Salentein was wonderful and then we continued bird on the extensive Salentein holdings adding one more lifer before lunch – a White-tipped Plantcutter, in addition to new birds for the trip like Blue and Yellow Tanager, Banded Seedeater and Mourning Sierra-finch.

It was great that we had such good birding in the morning because the next many hours would be all about wine. The Salentein Winery was founded in 1997 by a Dutch businessman, Myndert Pon, with the vision of creating a world class winery. One of its vineyards, San Pablo, however, dates back to the 17th Century. Everything we saw and experienced at Salentein was impressive with beautiful buildings, vineyards, facilities and of course food and wines. In 2019 at Mundus Vini, a top European Wine Competition, Salentein was named the best “overseas winery”. Where to start…

The Salentein property is over 5,000 acres with 1200 acres currently planted in vineyards. The winery produces red, white, rose and sparkling wines and is probably best known for its Malbec’s. Every architectural detail is beautiful and impressive. We had wonderful food and of course wine including several bottles with the meals in addition to the many wines at a tasting in their exquisite tasing room. I could add dozens of photos taken during our visit but include here just a sampling.

**View into one Oak Barrel Storage Area**

**Marcelo and our host in front of Tasting Room**

**Blair and Cindy with the Big Barrels/Vats**

**Probably My Favorite Wine at Salentein**

**The architecture was understated but splendid in the details**

After the wine at lunch and the tastings but before the wine at dinner, we actually continued birding – all on or near the Salentein property. I added another 3 world lifers: Darwin’s Nothura (unfortunately heard only), White Throated Cachalote and Hudson’s Black Tyrant (a female)- finally photographed after much work. This last photo, despite the poor quality, is noteworthy only because it is a very skulking bird and photos are hard to come by. I also finally got a photo of a Brown Cachalote – a lifer heard only and seen without photo before.

You never know when a bird will appear and just beg to have its photo taken. Such was the case with a Burrowing Owl and a Guira’s Cuckoo near the winery. They were new for the trip but seen by me previously. Both were spied as we drove the access roads to the winery and were seen and photographed from the van. I don’t think I have ever seen any cuckoo so much in the open before.

I also got my best of the trip so far photos of Long-tailed Mockingbird and Chiguanco Thrush and a lovely photo of a Fork-tailed Flycatcher and a posing Chimango Caracara. Lastly I also got a decent shot of a Double Collared Seedeater.

It had been a great day for wine, food, birds and photos probably as representative of why we chose this tour as any. We had seen 42 species that day with 11 being new lifers and 19 new for my Argentina list. There would be more to come the next day. Dinner this night was another extravaganza at the Gaia Restaurant at the Domaine Bousquet Winery.

February 10, Day 7:

Our first birding on the morning of February 10 added another lifer and a photo of a lifer missed earlier. The new species was a Chaco Earthcreeper and the new photo was of a Crested Gallito, both were again LBJ’s – “little brown jobs” but the crest on the Gallito made that ID a lot easier. Another life photo, but of a bird seen many years ago on that Argentina fishing trip in 1989, was the Red-gartered Coot.

We were headed to Malargue for the night with lunch along the way at Villa Bonita de Mayo. As was usually the case when we entered the restaurant, Marcelo was embraced by the proprietor – old friends. I wish I had taken notes on all of the meals. Nothing specific on this one except remembering it was very good and the atmosphere was really fun.

After again too much food and wine, it was back to the birds around San Rafael. In fairly short order birding in the scrub habitat, I added 5 more lifers: Short-billed Canastero, Sooty-fronted and Stripe-crowned Spinetails, Greater Wagtail-tyrant and Southern Scrub-flycatcher.

There were not many mammals on this tour but on the road we did see a wild Guanaco.

New for the trip but a nice photo of a species I had seen and photographed in Peru in 2012 was a Golden-billed Saltator.

The early afternoon had been great for lifers and photos. Late afternoon added 4 more lifers but I only got a photo of one and not a great photo at that. The photo was of a White-winged Black-tyrant. Lifers added without photos were Carbonated Sierra-finch, Patagonian Canastero, and Band-tailed Earthcreeper. The Sierra-finch was a quick drive-by view and the Canastero never unburied itself. I thought I had a photo of the Earthcreeper but it has not been found if it ever existed.

***White-winged Black Tyrant*** – the View Was Much Better than this Photo

Fortunately we were staying at the Hotel Malargue only one night – pretty low quality and I have already repressed details and took no photos. I do not even have notes or photos of dinner that night. Maybe just as well.

We were now half way into our trip (although not quite half way through the tour). Only 32 species were seen that day but,10 more species had been added to my growing life list (64 added so far). Our group trip list was at 120 species. We would not add that many new ones in the second half of the trip, but there were a lot more to come.

Birds and Wines of Chile and Argentina – Moving on To Argentina Part I

Posted on March 2, 2024 by blairbirding

February 7, Day 4:

If you read my previous blog about Chile (and please do if you did not – https://blairbirding.com/2024/02/29/birds-and-wines-in-chile-and-argentina-let-the-birding-begin-chile-part-i/ ), you know that our lovely first van had mechanical troubles and we had to be rescued from a roadside inn where we had wine and dessert while we waited and had a new van for day 3 in Chile. The original plan had been for the original van to be with us the entire trip transporting us and our gear around both countries. For whatever reasons pertaining to licensing, the first van was licensed to transport people in both countries but the replacement van was only licensed for Chile. This meant that we would need a new van in Argentina.

Simple right? Just drive to the border and leave Van 1, move people and goods to Van 2 and carry on. Hold on there – not that easy. Turns out that the physical geographical border between the two countries is some miles before the Passport Control and Customs location where you actually “enter” the other country. Thus it was necessary somehow to get the van licensed only in Chile to intersect with van licensed in Argentina but where. The “arrangement” had been for Chilean Van to go to the actual administrative border, where the transfer would be made to the Argentinian van. The problem was that Ugo, our Chilean van driver dug in his heels. He felt that every inch he drove on Argentinian dirt threatened his license. Heated discussion between him and Marcelo ensued. Never mind that we were already “in” Argentina, despite whatever had been arranged before, Ugo was a no go. If you can’t get the horse to water, bring water to the horse. Now discussions were between Marcelo and the Argentinian van. Although I am sure it raised some complications with them going through the checkpoint to get from the administrative Argentinian side to the Chilean administrative side – although always in geographical Argentina, they agreed to come to us and make the transfer on the Chilean administrative side – although again I point out (as Marcelo did repeatedly to Ugo) that we were already in Argentina!

This kerfuffle added some time to our already long journey but the Argentinian van got to us and we off-loaded and reloaded and headed to the customs/passport control entry point. The line seemed incredibly long – it is the ONLY way to get by road from Chile to Argentina and vice versa – and I figured we were in for hours of lost time. Maybe 20 minutes into the wait, I noticed that some vehicles were splitting off to the far right and seemed to be moving much faster than the line we were in. I had learned early on not to suggest deviations from whatever plan Marcelo was working with (and that his was a good plan), so I said nothing. A few minutes later – for whatever reason, we split off and joined that line and seemingly sped through and got to the control point booth with the Chilean immigration officer. Marcelo had gathered our passports and had a long and what looked like a pleasant conversation with the officer. It took only moments and now we were through, passports stamped and all.

This is a good point to remember and remind others that there is much more to leading a tour than “just” birding. When things go without a hitch, it may seem easy but even then, the reason things go without a hitch is because of the groundwork done by the guide and the tour company that set the stage and carried out a good plan. And when there are hitches like broken down vans, recalcitrant drivers, road closures, health problems and many other possible mishaps and changes in circumstances, the ability to think on one’s feet, re-imagine and create new plans and to negotiate with all sort of folks is an invaluable skill set. Marcelo had this quality in spades. He made it look easy when I know it probably was far from that. Sure, we pay a bit extra to travel with known companies, but for us it is because of times like these when we are glad we are not on our own that makes it all worth it.

So much for the complications. The way to get from Santiago to Mendoza (our target area in Argentina) means goin East on Route 60 across the Andes and negotiating the windy road up to Los Liberdatores Pass (Elevation 10,499′). It is about 100 miles from Santiago but because of the twists and turns and LOTS of truck traffic, it generally takes 3 hours or more. There is no other way to go by land – so just go with the flow – such as it is.

It may be a slow go, but the scenery is fantastic being in the Andes for many miles, and our vans were very comfortable. We were mentally prepared for cold weather but such was not the case as the outside temperature was maybe in the 50’s. Very comfortable. We made no real birding stops along the way, but as was our usual procedure there was an early stop at a convenience store for snacks and whatever drinks were desired. A lot of Coke Zero was consumed on our trip.

Our first real stop in Argentina was the Portillo Hotel and the Portillo Ski Resort. I am not a skier but remember hearing about skiing in Portillo when I was in college. Let’s just say that some kids at my college were “privileged” and that included skiing in Portillo during our Northern Hemisphere summer. Hard to imagine in the absolutely brown and dry conditions when we visited but the ski lifts were apparent and the hotel included pictures of famous Olympians and ski champions. It also included a gift shop, a nice restaurant and spectacular views. Although we ate it with wine, of course, our lunch was a very tasty and very large burger.

After lunch it was finally time for some high elevation birding and we went to Aconcagua Provincial Park including Laguna La Horcones certainly one of the most beautiful areas I have birded including views of Mt. Aconcagua, which at 22,838 feet is the tallest mountain in the Western Hemisphere and the tallest mountain outside of the Himalayas in the world. It was always partially covered by clouds (it produces its own weather) but still impressive. Like most such habitats, it was not full of birds, but our EBird checklist had 14 species and 40 individuals including 4 lifers for me: Andean Goose, Crested Duck, Scale-throated Earthcreeper and Black-fronted Ground-tyrant. I also had nice photos of Rufous-crowned Sparrow and Gray-hooded Sierra Finch and again saw Gray-breasted Seedsnipe. Unfortunately no photo of the Earthcreeper.

We hiked around in the beautiful spot for a couple of hours. As we were leaving a large pack train of mules, burros and horses came down from a climber/trekker base camp – not an everyday sight.

The scenery was relentlessly beautiful as we continued east moving through and down from the Andes.

We would be staying that night in Uspallata about 45 miles from the Provincial Park, and would be having another fine dinner at the El Rancho Restaurant in Uspallata. From our balcony window at the hotel, I added another lifer – Grayish Baywing, a species that would be seen often over the next few days.

The restaurant was what we think of as a classic Argentinian restaurant – lots of meat – a Parrillada – a restaurant with a variety of grilled and barbecued meats. Portions are endless. It was here that I had what at least at time was my favorite wine of the trip – a Cabernet – Malbec blend. We had so much good red wine later including more blends and pure Cabs and Malbecs, that maybe my impression would have been different later, but that night, it seemed the best.

I was back in Argentina – 45 years after my only other visit. No fishing ahead but there would be lots of food, wine and birds. With so much time taken up by travel, there had not been a lot of birds (19 species for the day), but it had been a momentous day because the Andean Goose was my 27th lifer for the trip and World Lifer #3300. Not so many compared to many people I know or know of. I hoped for more on this trip of course. With luck maybe I will get to 4,000 someday. With the others seen this day, I was now at 3303 – and counting.

February 8, Day 5:

We were only at the Uspallata Hotel one night, just as well as it was our least favorite on the trip. No big problems, just ok. We birded around the grounds a bit and then had breakfast and packed up birding and for our transfer to our next abode, the Salentein Winery Lodge. There were fields and a river near the hotel that produced five new lifers and a blown chance at an additional lifer photo. The lifers were: Spot-winged Pigeon, Ticking Doradito, White Crested Tyrannulet, Southern Yellowthroat and Great Pampa-finch. The missed photo was of a Plumbeous Rail. It was out in the open for several seconds but I was in the wrong position for a shot. Thinking I already had a photo of this species, I didn’t rush to get a picture and it disappeared. I was wrong. I had seen one before but with no photo. Oh well. I only got a fleeting mostly obscured view of the Doradito so again no photo.

***Southern Yellowthroat – best I could do***

I picked up three more lifers at our next stop, a wet area along Route 7. They were Southern Martin, Patagonian Mockingbird and one of my favorites for the trip, Spectacled Tyrant. I also go life photos of a cooperative Yellow-billed Pintail.

We next birded around the Pueblo del Rio Lodge where we had yet another great lunch with wine pairings. Two new birds that were especially appreciated were a Brown-capped Tit-spinetail and a Steinbach’s Canastero, fortunately getting photos of each of these lifers. A third lifer would also be on that especially appreciated list if I had been able to get even a good view let alone a photo, was a very cool hummingbird called a Red-tailed Comet, which has, yes you guessed it, a striking red tail. I had only fleeting and distant views, good enough to count it, but I wanted much more (and would get it later).

We would be spending the next two nights at the Salentein Winery and Lodge, which turned out to be our favorite place on the tour. As we made our way there we birded along Ruta 40 and Calle el Alamo enroute. I picked up two new life birds, Monk Parakeet and Green-barred Woodpecker. The latter would be seen several times again and the former needs some explanation. I had seen Monk Parakeets before – at a now almost extirpated colony in Yacolt, Washington and also in the area around Miami, Florida where they are plentiful. They are introduced non-native species in both places and thus are not countable on official World lists. Being native in Chile and Argentina, they are countable as such there. I had actually seen and mostly heard several on our fist day in Chile, without photo and had not included them on any list. Now with photos, I added them to one of my Argentina lists. Dozens would be seen and heard on this trip.

New life photos from the afternoon included Fork-tailed Flycatcher and Burrowing Parakeet and I was also happy to get an ok shot of a White-collared Swift showing the collar.

My original thought was to include both days 4, 5 and 6 on this Blog post, but I can see that Day 6 is going to be a long post with lots of wine so I am going to end this here. At the end of the day 5, my lifer total stood at 40 for the trip and we had now seen 91 species with lots of photos including life photos.

We checked into the lovely Salentein lodge with a beautiful room and did our bird list outdoors watching Fork-tailed Flycatchers and White-collared Swifts hawking insects with Monk Parakeets flying through frequently. Dinner was at Salentein and although excellent, somehow I only have a photo of a dessert and of course a bottle of Malbec. More later.

Birds and Wines in Chile and Argentina: Let the Birding Begin – Chile Part I

Posted on February 29, 2024February 27, 2025 by blairbirding

February 4, Day 1:

After our group first met in the 12th floor lobby of the Hyatt Place Hotel in Santiago, we boarded our van and went of to visit the Central Market (Mercado) in downtown Santiago where we wove our way through the produce, wine and seafood booths arriving at “Richard’s ‘King of Seafood’ Restaurant, a hole in the wall owned by Richard who like most everyone we would meet on the tour, was a long time friend of Marcelo’s. The market was alive with vendors, hawkers, buyers, restaurants and customers.

**Lots of Seafood – Here Weighing Giant Squid Tentacle**

Razor Clams and Cheese One of Many Dishes at First Lunch – with Much Wine As Well

After lunch we drove to the Farrelones Ski Resort area for our first birding at the Nevado Ski Resort. It is summer below the equator – so dry with no snow and at elevation pleasantly cool. Our first birds included Diuca Finch, Chilean Mockingbird, Rufous Collared Sparrow, White Crested Elaenia, Tufted Tit-tyrant and Plain-mantled Tit-spinetail. [NOTE: Throughout these blogs I will identify new lifers in bold italics.] I got pictures of all but the latter – a fate which would recur every time I “saw” that skulky bird during the trip.

Shortly thereafter a Black-chested Buzzard Eagle flew overhead shortly followed by our first Andean Condor. I had seen the impressive large Condors in Peru and in Ecuador and would see more later on this trip. Too far away for any meaningful photo. As we continued along our climb into the Andes, Marcelo noted some trees off to our left and said we should keep our eyes open as sometimes Lesser Horned Owls roosted in them. Literally two minutes later, Marcelo called out “Pare, pare”, the signal to our driver to stop. He did and we backed up maybe 50 feet and Marcelo pointed out a Lesser Horned Owl buried in the branches. Magic like this would recur often during the trip.

Continuing our climb, we turned onto Camino a La Parva and got out of the van for some “serious” birding just as more Andean Condors flew overhead – a little closer for a first photo – still distant and not very satisfying – but any Condor is a treat.

This was a good stop with many new birds – all new for Chile as this was my first visit to this country and new lifers including White-sided Hillstar (our first hummingbird), Gray-breasted Seedsnipe (heard only), Rufous-banded Miner, White-browed Ground Tyrant, Gray-hooded Sierra Finch, and Greater Yellow Finch. I also got lifer photos of Austral Thrush, Buff-winged and Gray-flanked Cinclodes, and Black-chinned Siskin.

Neither lifers or life photos but new photos for the trip were two doves that would be seen often on our trip Eared Dove (abundant and everywhere) and Black-winged Ground Dove seen mostly at higher elevations and which I had seen and photographed initially in Ecuador in 2022.

I was disappointed that we never got even a glimpse at the calling Gray-breasted Seedsnipe as especially after great looks and photos of the Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe in Ecuador, it was high on my target list. Not to kill the suspense, those looks and photos would come later. We continued on to the Nevado Ski Resort where I picked up three more lifers: Mourning Sierra-finch, Moustached Turca and both Cordilleran and Sharp-billed Canasteros. No picture of the latter until Argentina. We would see another Turca later, but they are not seen on every tour – great bird.

There would be one more lifer and accompanying life picture on this wonderful first day. At a last stop as we retraced our steps back to Santiago, we found a Fire-eyed Diucon, the fire eye quite obvious.

Especially with only a half day of birding, Day 1 was a great success. We had seen 34 species and I had photos of 24 of them. Fully 15 species were world lifers (bringing me to 3289 species) and lots of new world life photos as well. Back to Santiago. We were back to Santiago for dinner ready for Day 2.

February 5, Tour Day 2:

Today was anther day up into the mountains out of Santiago with our prime target being the species I most wanted to see on the trip – the Diademed Sandpiper-plover. We traveled on the Camino Embalse El Yeso in the area of San Jose de Maipo. After a fairly long drive Marcelo had the driver pull over saying that it seemed like a good spot to him for a Crag Chilia. Magic again as we heard its distant song from a rock embankment quite a ways off. Marcelo located it on a rock on got the scope on it. I had a decent ID view and a very distant photo, Appearance and habitat-wise it reminded me of our Canyon Wren. Responding to playback it came in closer, not real close but good enough for a decent highly magnified photo – another lifer.

Continuing on we came to a wet area that might be good for the Sandpiper-plover. We covered it extensively without finding it but there were other birds there including lifers Yellow-billed Teal a fast flying Magellanic Snipe, Creamy-rumped Miner and Yellow-rumped Siskin.

More importantly to me, however, was that we had great photo opportunities for the Gray-breasted Seedsnipe – a lifer photo that had been missed the previous day and I was also able to get a good photo of a Black-billed Shrike-tyrant. I had seen one 11 years earlier in Peru but no photo.

Cindy and I had seen Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe at high altitude in Ecuador, a much sought after species that is often missed, so this was a vey pleasing moment for us. And just as had been the case in Ecuador, we also saw Andean Gulls. Although I thought I had gotten a photo of another bird seen in Peru, I could not find a photo of the Rufous-naped Ground-tyrant seen with the Shrike-tyrant. It would have been a lifer photo. Bummer. I should mention that the area was spectacular , made better of course by the birds!!

So we had good birds but not the prize. When we went over the materials provided by Field Guides, they suggested warm hats and jackets and gloves for the high altitudes and also waterproof boots extending over the ankle for pursuit of the Diademed Sandpiper-plover which prefers watery areas. We had brought all on the trip but never used any of the cold weather clothing. When we got to our next area though, we did use some zip-up waterproof covers that went over our regular books. It was a good idea as there was a fair amount of ankle deep water in the area that Marcelo took us to for the Sandpiper-plover. This was an area that had hot springs and several non-birders were there as well, a concern for a hard to find and possibly skittish bird.

It took some time but finally Marcelo’s keen ears heard its calls and after quite a bit of searching he located one. The good news was that everyone could get good views through the scope. The not so good news was that the really striking bird was backlit and not real close. I took a lot of photos as best I could. This was probably the most frustrating experience on the trip for me. If when first spotted, we had positioned ourselves another 50 yards further along, there would have been good light on the bird enabling a much better picture. Although I understood the decision to stop at the spot where it was first viewed, the group had scattered and it took a while for everyone to get to the scope and get their view. Group protocol rightly requires no movement until everyone has had that first good view. It was very frustrating. When that first view for all was finally accomplished, we began moving to the better lit spot that would have enabled good photos. The bird had been essentially still or foraging in the same area for several minutes. Its patience ran out and it flew off way into the distance never to be seen gain. I include my best photo below but also for the only time I will do so in these blogs, I include a photo from the internet that shows just how cool this bird is.

***Diademed Sandpiper-plover – My Photo***

**Diademed Sandpiper-plover – Photo by Fernando Diaz**

**Marcelo on the Lookout for the Diademed Sandpiper-Plover**

**Blair and Cindy at Termas Plomo (hot springs) after Seeing the Diademed Sandpiper-plover**

On the return back to Santiago, there was a near disaster. Our van was making odd noises. First we slowed and then carried on a bit but the noises continued. We stopped and a not very happy Marcelo Padua went into to action. Probably best that we did not speak Spanish as there was a very heated conversation between Marcelo and someone – either the transportation company or the ground agent that Field Guides coordinated with in Chile. It could have been a full-on disaster, but this is where Marcelo’s talents in addition to birding paid off. We made our way to a small boutique hotel on the highway and waited as another van was sent to rescue us. Maybe it took an hour, maybe two. We had some desserts and drinks as we waited. It probably cut into some birding options, but the bottom line was that another van came and got us by late afternoon. Serviceable, but it was not nearly nearly as birding friendly as our original carriage – darker windows, with a more constraining seat configuration. It would have to do.

With our new driver we were off to our hotel back in Santiago and then to dinner at the Bodeguita Miguel Torres Restaurant with local wines of course – except being quite full from several nights of dining and for the first time feeling a bit jet lagged, I chose to sit this dinner out. Marcelo said to order whatever I wanted from room service and just put it on the bill. I passed and had a little snack protein bar and that was it. Cindy enjoyed the restaurant dinner. This thoughtful detail for room service speaks highly of Marcelo and the approach by Field Guides on this trip – always felt like we had first class service. OK we paid for it, but you don’t always get what you pay for.

End of Day 2 – 6 more lifers (now at 3295) and many new life photos. Running trip count now at 49 as we had added a Long Tailed Meadowlark on our way back to Santiago.

February 6, Day 3:

In our new van, in the morning we headed off to Rio Clarillo National Park. On the way I picked up a new lifer, a Picui Ground Dove. The hope was that whatever trouble our first van had could be fixed to enable it to take us to Argentina as there were licensing complications if not. Time would tell. In addition to the Picui Ground Dove, I got a life photo of a Black Faced Ibis, a bird I had first seen in Junín, Argentina in 1989 on my fishing trip.

On the way to Rio Clarillo NP, we picked up a couple of birds along the road in Pirque County including a surprising California Quail, introduced as a game bird for hunters in Chile. I also got pretty nice photos of a Tufted Tit-tyrant, a species I had first seen in the Amazon region in Ecuador.

We birded several hours at Rio Clarillo but did not add that many species although three of them Dusky Tapaculo, Dusky-tailed Canastero and Austral Blackbird were lifers. Another new species for the trip was a Giant Hummingbird (seen previously in Ecuador).

***Dusky Tapaculo – a Very Hard Bird to Photograph***

From Rio Clarillo, we headed to the Santa Rita Winery for another multi-course lunch, a tour of the winery and a wine tasting. There was also a small museum with pottery and weavings. It was an enjoyable and long visit taking most of the afternoon before we headed back to Santiago. We drank a lot of wine with an excellent Carmenere and an equally good (to me) Chardonnay. In the U.S. the Pewen Carmenere sells for over $50/bottle and the Alta Floresta Chardonnay for $20.00. These photos give a taste of what our afternoon was like. Santa Rita is r than 140 years old and is the largest wine producer in Chile.

It was then the drive back to the hotel, a short rest and then dinner at the Peumayen Ancestral Food Restaurant featuring – yes ancestral foods – not the highlight of our gustatory trip, but good and interesting and different. This would conclude the first part of our visit in Chile as we would head off the next morning for the long ride over the Andes to Argentina. We would later return to Chile to visit the coast before concluding with a return for flights home from Santiago.

At the end of day 3, I had listed 56 species for Chile and the trip, added 25 lifers to get to 3298 and again many new life photos.

Birds and Wines in Chile and Argentina – Background and Introduction

Posted on February 27, 2024August 15, 2025 by blairbirding

Before the Covid Pandemic hit in 2020, Cindy Bailey and I had signed up for a tour offered by Field Guides Birding Tours that combined two of our interests – birds and wine. It seemed like a good way to introduce Cindy to birding tours, essentially bribing her with good wines to put up with chasing birds. We chose this tour over a similar one offered by Victor Emanuel Nature Tours, even though that tour included a pelagic trip that would assuredly add some new life species for me. The main reason for our choice was that friends Jon and Kathleen Houghton had rave reviews of their guide on a wine and birds trip to Brazil, Marcelo Padua.

But then Covid happened and the tour was cancelled. No birding trips for either of us. Late in 2021, we we did have a chance for a test run birding tour and Cindy and I went on a group tour to Oaxaca with Wild Latitudes . Despite mixed reviews for that tour, Cindy remained game for another trip and we went on a very fun private tour to Ecuador with Neblina Forest – a trip which I wrote up in a number of blogs afterwards. What next? Birds and Wines of Chile and Argentina was being offered again, but even though Covid was a much reduced threat, Chile had an isolation policy that put us off. Their requirement was that if any member of a group came down with Covid, everyone in the group had to isolate for 10 days – a risk we were not willing to take. Instead we visited Tanzania with Victor Emanuel – a fabulous tripe that I covered in many blog posts last year. Then in 2023 Field Guides was again offering the trip and Chile’s policy had changed.

We got on the list for the tour – then a complication. The go/no go sign up requirement was for a minimum of six participants. We were the fourth and fifth to commit. Months went by and nobody joined the tour. Finally we were all given the option to pony up some additional dollars or it would be cancelled and deposits would be refunded. All agreed to do so and we were a go. We used a third party called Sky Lux to arrange discounted Business Class Airfare (a concession to Cindy that worked very well) and they arranged reasonable flights going through Miami and on to Santiago, Chile. Time to bone up on Chilean and Argentinian birds.

I had been to Argentina in 1989 on a very fun flyfishing trip in the Junín area and had very fond memories. The fishing was great, the food and wine memorable and incidentally I had somehow put together a small bird list of 41 species (of which ten turned out to be species we did not see on our just ended trip). The possible bird list for the Field Guides trip was 254 species. Given overlaps from that previous trip to Argentina and later trips elsewhere in South America plus the shorebird and wader species seen many places, I thought there was a possibility of maybe 128 new lifers. My normal analysis is that something around 80% of species on such lists are “likely” so I figured a good goal was maybe 100 new species. There was a bonus in that I had no photos from that earlier Argentina trip and there should be opportunities to add to my world life photos list as well. The tour would start in Chile, then cross the Andes into Argentina, concentrating in the area near Mendoza, then flying back to Chile to conclude on the Pacific Coast near Vina del Mar and Valparaiso.

I have consumed maybe 20 times as much wine in the 5 years knowing Cindy as I had in the 70 preceding years and while I enjoy some more than others, I really know very little about wine and this would be an opportunity to learn more and to enjoy some fine wines. Cindy knows a lot more and probably enjoys it much more than I do. Little did I really appreciate just how much wine we would consume and how much great food would accompany it. Skipping ahead – when I got on the scale after 18 days away, I had put on 9 pounds, especially distressing since my starting point was already higher than it should be. But as I said the wine was exceptional as was the food. A problem however was that in both countries it is customary to eat much later than my norm. Often dinners would start at 8:00 p.m. or later and we would not hit our beds until 10:00 or 11:00. Not the best approach for good digestion – and sleep.

Our first flight was about 6 hours in First Class from Seattle to Miami on Alaska Airlines. We had a 5 hour layover (spent largely in the Lounge for LATAM Airlines) and then an 8 hour overnight flight Business Class on LATAM to Santiago. Both flights were very comfortable and on schedule and although neither of us slept a lot on the fully reclining seats to Santiago, we were able to relax and begin our over-consumption of wine and food. For the first time in I don’t know how long, we checked a bag in addition to our two carry-ons. It arrived in tact and Passport Control and Customs were not too bad in Santiago. On all of these trips, there is a moment of anxiety when leaving the airport security you hope to see someone waiting for you with your name on a sign, provided by the tour outfitter to get you from the airport to your hotel. Whew!! There he was with the Bailey/Bernson sign. It was around 7:00 a.m. and we were off to our Hyatt Place Hotel. The hotel was new and a little bland (in a modern way) and the staff was great. They allowed us to check in VERY early which was greatly appreciated since we had arrived before the formal start of the tour. It was a very nice hotel with very nice rooms. We got some sleep/rest and later headed off for a mall to look for a warm coat for Cindy…and that is the segue to a BIG PROBLEM!

I have traveled on more than 50 international flights dealing wit security, baggage, customs etc. without a mishap – except in Miami. I generally split cash between my wallet and a pouch that I wear around my neck where I keep my passport and credit cards. The wallet stays in my pants pocket until security when I put it into my small back pack or my carry on suitcase. The Miami airport was large and chaotic in general and the security lines were as well with mixing between TSA pre-approved and other lines. Mistake 1: I had not taken credit cards and cash out of the wallet. Mistake 2: well not sure exactly what happened but somehow my wallet did not make it into my pack although I thought it had. In any event I thought all was well and since we were going straight to the LATAM Lounge, we did not buy anything in the airport. So it was not until we got to the hotel in Santiago when looking for my wallet, I could not find it. I searched the carry-on and the back – NADA. In the room, I completely emptied everything and it was nowhere to be found. My best guess is that somehow in the process of putting belts, phones, computers, wallet, pouch etc., in those little baskets, and being a bit sleep deprived from the redeye flight (certainly not my first) the wallet got lost in the shuffle and taken by somebody. Bottom line, I was in Chile without credit cards, ATM Cards, health card, cash, checks, driver’s license and who knows what else. Fortunately I did have my passport and Cindy had her credit and ATM cards. So the first hour plus was spent contacting my bank and VISA cancelling credit and ATM cards and putting a hold on all bank account activity. Just a bit distressing, stressful and scary. AND oh yeah, somewhere either in the Miami or Santiago Airports, Cindy’s heavy coat – theoretically needed for our high altitude time in the Andes – had also disappeared. Thus the aforementioned need to visit the mall, where in fact we could not find an appropriate coat – possibly due to the fact that it was summer in Chile and 90 degrees in Santiago.

We had dinner at the hotel that first night and a very full array of breakfast options in the morning there as well. Since the trip was so long and there was a six hour difference between Seattle and Santiago, we had arranged to be there two full nights before the official start of the tour and we wanted to find something more “charming” the next day. Our hotel was not in the center or historic part of town, rather in a pleasant area with a mix of nice residential and commercial buildings. Although there were no restaurants in the immediate area, we found an area about a half mile away in the direction opposite of where we had walked for the Mall the day before that had several trendy restaurants. There were several seemingly good options. We chose one that had the most people sitting there at our early dinner time of 7 pm. It was a pizza and pasta place with outdoor seating called Rita Trattoria. The pizza was ok and the Pisco sours (national drink of Chile) were great and the shared dessert was even greater. Cindy got a large Pisco and maybe due to the lack of sleep was kind of tipsy, in a very pleasant way. A television screen in the restaurant showed ads the whole time including a pretty funny take-off with the Mona Lisa enjoying a Red Bull.

Finally it was time to meet our group – a small one. Mike and Karen Warner from a suburb of Chicago, Joe Trapani from New York State and of course Marcelo Padua from Cuiaba, Brazil. Karen, formerly a nurse, was probably the most ardent birder, Mike, a former School Superintendent was more interested in photography and Joe, a former math teacher enjoyed both the birds and photography but was fairly laid back about both although he had been on many bird tours before. For that matter they all had traveled extensively and were all good company. Marcelo was an extremely good bird guide in addition to of course being both a wine expert and very keen on making sure that all details of the trip were carried out at a very high level – more on that in later blogs.

After meeting the group, we loaded onto our luxurious van and headed to Santiago’s Central market for our first of many fine meals with excellent wines. More on that in the next blog which will cover the first days of the tour itself, but first more on the van. There would be some changes over the trip due to some mechanical and licensing problems, but we started with a Mercedes Sprinter configured with five rows each with two seats on the drivers side and a single seat on the passenger side and an aisle in between. There was also room behind all the seats for luggage on the days that we would be moving from one hotel to another. Since there were only five of us (guide Marcelo was in the front next to the driver), there was plenty of room to spread out and move from side to side if something was spotted from the van. We followed the rotational sequence where one who was in the back the previous day would move to the front with everyone else moving a row back. There were NO seating issues during the entire trip.

I will end this introduction with some brief words about the wines. While not as well known or generally as pricey in the U.S. as Italian, French and American wines, the wines of both Argentina and Chile are highly regarded, with whites being more well known from Chile and reds from Argentina although both are produced in both places. Probably the best known and most highly regarded special wines from the area are the red Malbecs and Carmeneres, the former more so in Argentina and the latter in Chile. We had many samples of both but also had many Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs, Cabernets, Merlots, Cabernet Francs, and Syrahs as well as blends. They ranged from good to excellent and were always available in a seemingly endless flow. I lost track of how many wines we tried – lunches, dinners and several tastings at beautiful wineries – but know it was more than 40. There was lots of wine!

So much for background – time to bird and visit wineries. The following blogs will be mostly about the birding but will definitely include visits to some of the wineries – generally beautiful places with restaurants, tasting rooms, production and storage areas, lovely grounds, great architecture and often fun birds to go with the delicious wines and food.

Mexico Day 3 – Birding around San Blas and then Back to Puerto Vallarta

Posted on December 29, 2023December 30, 2023 by blairbirding

It was bonus or gravy time. The goal that had initiated this trip to Mexico, reaching 1000 species for the year had been achieved with more than ten species to spare. There really had not been any pressure to achieve that and focus had turned to new species for life and photo lists, for the trip and to add to that year total. Moreso, however, the tone of the trip had already changed to just having fun and today with another early start would continue on that path. Greg Homel and I had really good rapport and we saw eye to eye on what could have been controversial topics like politics, religion, guns, diversity, humor and economics. Story telling came easily and there was no need to impress or compete. On that score it was very easy not to compete with Greg. He had traveled the world birding in over 100 countries, had seen more than 9000 bird species and had been doing this seemingly since he was old enough to walk. He was the expert on this trip and even though I was compensating him for that, it never felt that way – just out birding.

We again were off to an early start and would be birding in a number of habitats around San Blas in the Mexican State of Nayarit. We began birding along the Camino Crocodilario – the Crocodile Path. We would see crocodiles on several occasions on the trip, but the concentration was always on the birds. Not too far into the morning I yelled “Stop” as I had seen what seemed to be a very large woodpecker on a palm tree maybe 50 yards off the road. Repeating maneuvers familiar to all birders, Greg quickly found a place to make a U-turn and we got back to the palm where a large woodpecker was on the left side of the tree (later to move all around the trunk) and a smaller one was on the right side. One should never be disappointed seeing a Lineated Woodpecker as this turned out to be, but I was hoping for a very similar Pale Billed Woodpecker which I had heard earlier to count as a lifer but never saw or photographed. And the smaller guy on the left was a Golden Cheeked Woodpecker, another lifer seen briefly earlier but not photographed. It is a truly gorgeous bird.

Soon thereafter Greg called out Muscovy Ducks – “real ones” – in a field on the right side of the road. Another U-turn and I was able to get a photo. These were “real ones” as compared to the domesticated ones that are “countable” in the ABA area but are released/domesticated and gone wild in many urban parks, particularly in Florida. The only other real one I had seen was at Iguassu Falls in Brazil in 2005. In another field later, we had a partially blocked view of a Limpkin and later in another field some Cinnamon Rumped Seedeaters. I had seen and photographed both species before, but they were nice adds for the trip and year.

The first lifer added that morning was a Rufous Bellied Chachalaca, the 6th Chachalaca species on my world list and was later followed by a Cinnamon Bellied Saltator. No photos of the latter here, but there would be many more in the future. Keeping on the cinnamon theme, however, we had our first Cinnamon Hummingbird, seen and photographed before in Oaxaca, but new for 2023.

Altogether during this part of our birding day, we had 49 species and I added 14 species for the trip list and 12 species for my 2023 year list. A species that we worked very hard to find, see and photograph was one that I usually have each year in Washington – Green Tailed Towhee – usually found in wild rose thickets in the Blue Mountains East of Walla Walla. I had not gone their in my reduced year of birding in-state this year, so when we finally got it, it added to the 2023 World Year list. Not the greatest shot, I am including it only because we worked so hard to get any shot at this notorious skulker.

We moved on to bird the area around Chacalilla noted as a “Pueblo” on the Ebird list. That is a good segue to an important appreciated detail on the trip. For reasons I do not want to discuss here, my cell phone carrier (Comcast) does not provide service in foreign countries unless one uses a “Global Pass” at the exorbitant charge of $10/day and even then with limitations. So I keep my phone on “Airplane Mode” when travelling and rely on Wi-Fi connections including to make free calls to those who use WhatsApp. This of course means that I cannot use my GPS in the field and cannot do accurate Ebird reports. Our arrangement was that Greg would keep and file Ebird reports every day and then share them with me later. This worked very well, except, and this will be the only time I will say it, Greg was close to perfect in almost every way, but even he missed some species when he recalled them from memory after the fact. Details. Details. (Actually I will say it again – with a big grin – in the post for December 8th to follow.)

On this Chacalilla part of our day, we had 53 species, repeating many previously seen but adding 10 new species to our trip list of which 6 were new for my year and two were lifers with photos – well sort of photos for one. The two lifers were Elegant Quail and Mexican Parrotlet. Trying to get a photo of the first was as frustrating as almost anything on the trip. The only one(s) we saw were on a small dirt track/road with high grass on both sides. One would walk briefly on the side of the road and then disappear in the grass, repeating this several times, but never getting fully in the open from my position in the car, and we dared not get out. The only time it was sort of clear, I was not fast enough so I settled for a very poor shot. I did better on the Mexican Parrotlet, an endemic species in the region so an important one to see, but not by a whole lot as a small flock flew in overhead mostly buried in foliage atop a fairly tall tree in not great light. But – I saw it, heard it and got my photo – a great new lifer.

**Elegant Quail (Lifer) in a Very Inelegant Photo – Use your Imagination**

**Mexican Parrotlet – An Important Endemic – Lifer**

Below I am including images of some other birds seen on this leg of the trip, some seen earlier as well but I had not included photos in earlier blog posts.

**Black Necked Stilt and Blue Winged Teal**

Two species deserve special attention here: West Mexican Euphonia and Nutting’s Flycatcher. Both were seen (or heard) earlier on the trip but on this morning we got good views and I got good photos. Both were new world life birds and the pictures also new world photos.

The last leg of our trip this morning included a number of shrimp ponds – great habitat for waders, shorebirds and ducks. Of the 45 species seen, 4 were ducks, 13 were shorebirds (somewhat broadly defined) and 12 were waders. The 4 new species for the year were Roseate Spoonbill, Wood Stork, Yellow Crowned Night Heron and Ridgway’s Rail, none life birds and all photographed before but great birds for the year and nice photo ops. Finding the Ridgway’s Rail was particularly fun. We went to a pond that Greg thought would be really good for the Rail. There were lots of waders and ducks and just as we stopped at a corner of the pond, we heard a loud “bang” and many dozens of birds took off in flight. More importantly a Ridgway’s Rail called as well. The bang was probably a vehicle backfiring, but the response confirmed we were at the right place. With not too much playback, we coaxed the Rail into the open. I had seen one in California before and had photos, but this was definitely better.

Although we had Orange Fronted Parakeets earlier on the trip, as is often the case with this and related species, “had” was mostly “heard” with a very fast flyover. This time we heard them, saw them fly over and then land – and better yet, sort of pose while they preened. Photo op presented – photo taken.

After another good lunch it was back to the hotel for a little rest and then we were back out birding in late afternoon. It was a bit confusing to keep track of time as there are different time zones in Jalisco and Nayarit, with the former 2 hours earlier than my usual Pacific Standard Time and the latter only an hour earlier as it is further west. A benefit of that and of course from being much further south was that it did not get dark as early. We have just passed the Winter Solstice which meant it was starting to get dark by 5:00 p.m. in Edmonds – at least 2+ hours later where we were in Mexico. Our birding now took us to Tepic, the capital of Nayarit about an hour from San Blas. As is almost always the case, it gets harder to add new species as the trip goes along since so many new species were seen in each preceding birding day.

In this afternoon and evening of birding we had 42 species of which 9 were new for our trip, only 3 were new for the year and none were lifers. No new ones were especially exciting but I will add a few photos of some of the species seen. Interestingly one was a Lincoln’s Sparrow which would have been a new for the year species had I not seen one in Washington the week before I departed.

There would be no late birding into the night because we were on the move again, this time a long drive back to Puerto Vallarta where I thought I would be staying at the Holiday Inn Express hoping it would be quieter than the “fancier” Holiday Inn Suites which had very noisy AC. When I went to check in there, however, I was told I had been upgraded to the Holiday Inn Suites. I should have refused as the AC was just as noisy as the first night…Sigh! It would be another early start the next morning as we would be off to the Coast and birding south of Puerto Vallarta.

A Water and Bird Filled Day 2 in Mexico

Posted on December 29, 2023 by blairbirding

There are ten species in the Sulidae bird family which includes Gannets and Boobies. During my various birding trips I have seen 7 of them: Red Footed Booby, Brown Booby, Peruvian Booby, Nazca Booby, Masked Booby, Northern Gannet and Cape Gannet. The three species I had not seen were Australasian Gannet, Abbott’s Booby and Blue Footed Booby. The Australasian Gannet is found in Australia and New Zealand. If I had made it a point to find one during my visit to Australia in 2003, I probably could have. The Abbott’s Booby has a very small population and a limited range. I have never been close and do not expect to ever see one. BUT Blue Boobies are common around the Puerto Vallarta area and seeing one was high on my list. My second day in Mexico would be the day. Greg Homel picked me up early at the hotel – packed and ready to go as we would be moving to a new location, but first on the agenda was a boat trip to a National Park, Islas Marietas, in Nayarit State – north of Puerto Vallarta.

**Blue Footed Booby – Targeted Sulid #8**

Islas Marietas is made of several small islands and two larger ones, Isla Larga and Isla Redonda, the ones we would be visiting after maybe a 20 minute boat ride across the open but pretty calm sea. Brown and Blue Footed Boobies, Magnificent Frigatebirds and some other species are abundant on the two large islands and some breed there. Seeing these birds was guaranteed and there was a chance to find Red Billed Tropicbirds, another potential lifer. The waters around the uninhabited islands are popular with snorkelers and several outfitters bring hordes of them to the protected waters. Venturing onto the islands themselves is not permitted.

It was an awesome trip in perfect weather with lots of sun and no wind. Greg knew the operator of the boat well and together they positioned and repositioned the boat continuously for the best views and great photos. The trip was not species rich number wise, only 17 seen, but what great birds and spectacular views and photo ops!! Most impressive were the dozens of Blue Footed Boobies and Magnificent Frigatebirds with fewer but also impressive Brown Boobies. There were also numerous Black and Turkey Vultures and we picked out a single Zone Tailed Hawk in one group and then watched it take a lizard for a meal. On the rocks at the base of the island, we had a Snowy Egret and a Wandering Tattler foraging for food. All of these birds except the Turkey Vulture were new birds for the year and the Blue Footed Booby was the only lifer and life photo. I wish I could say it was Year Bird #1000 for 2023, but that would come a little later. Even though we were in a boat and the birds were on the island cliffs, they often were not very high off the water and we got quite close and especially enjoyed courtship displays between the boobies. With telephoto lenses and the sun behind us and thus on these fascinating subjects, there were lots of photos.

**Magnificent Frigatebirds – Female and Nonbreeding**

**Magnificent Frigatebird with Airsack**

Another new bird for the year (#994) was Gray Breasted Martin. Martins, Swallows and Swifts are notoriously difficult to capture in a good picture – unless you catch them roosting. And this was the case now as they nested/roosted in crags in the cliffs and thus I was able to get an ok photo.

The boat ride back was smooth and pleasant and the two hours spent at the islands could not have been better. We would spend the next hour and a half birding areas near the coast in the State of Nayarit – Bahia de Banderas on the Ebird report. Many of the species were repeats from the previous day but we also added Common Black Hawk and Gila Woodpecker and a first look at Black Throated Magpie Jay – a lifer that we would see much better later. My year list was now at 996 species.

**White Winged Dove – Seen the Previous Day as Well**

We continued northward not far from the coast, birding in Compostela including the Rio Boca de Chila (the mouth of the Chila River). Lots of new inland water oriented birds for the trip but I had seen most of them the previous day or elsewhere earlier in the year. Two new year birds were Sinaloa Crow and Happy Wren. I got photos of the former – a lifer – but would not get photos of the latter until later in the trip.

We drove into San Blas and had a super lunch at one of Greg’s favorite eateries – the Wala Wala Restaurant. Excellent shrimp and a fun time chatting with the owner. We would return the next day as well. After lunch it was to our hotel to check in and have a short rest.

Leaving the hotel we headed to the Rio La Tovara where we would have another boat trip – now through the Mangroves. The first new bird on the river would be species number 1000 for the year – successful execution of the project, but hardly the end of the story. The previous day we had seen and heard numerous Yellow Warblers, a common species in breeding season near me in Washington. By all rights the Yellow Warblers we saw in the mangroves should be a separate species and as the first birds we saw there would have been the 1000th bird for the year. These “Mangrove Warblers” have a distinctly different range and utilize a distinctly different habitat from their more common relatives and are quite different in appearance with a striking cinnamon head. Maybe someday there will be a split – but not yet so the 1000th bird for the year may have been a Black Bellied Whistling Duck although it might instead have been a Least Bittern that I saw flying across the lagoon or possibly the Little Blue Heron that was perched on a snag seen at a distance or why not that Green Kingfisher that was buried among the mangroves, scoping out its next meal. The truth is I had not kept track of new year birds as we saw them and if I can’t count the Mangrove Yellow Warbler which was for sure the first bird seen, then I just don’t know. Most likely, though, it was a Mangrove Swallow as we saw many as we motored down the lagoon. Unfortunately, however, I did not get a photo of the Mangrove Swallow, so I am declaring the Green Kingfisher as the “unofficial official” 1000th species for 2023.

**Green Kingfisher – “Unofficially the Official 1000th Species for 2023”**

We worked our way down the lagoon and then into the mangroves with lots of species along the way. All told there would be 12 new species for the year, but only the last and most impressive was a new lifer for me (just wait) and it would be the only new life photo as well. By the end of the trip, my Mexican trip list would be at 114 species and counting. Some more photos from the boat trip.

I really have saved the best for last. The main reason to be at this beautiful place was to hopefully see a Northern Potoo – which would be new for the trip, new for the year, a world lifer and a new world photo and a really cool bird related to the nightjars and nighthawks. Potoos are famously known for blending in to the logs or poles or snags that they often choose for their perch. Depending on your view and whether it’s eyes are open or not, they can be almost impossible to see and they have such a small protruding bill that it is often buried in its head feathers. They are nocturnal insectivores but are often seen on day roosts. We did not see any for a long while and then we saw first one and then another and another – at least five in all. The boatmen were constantly shifting the position of the boat to line us up with the front of the Northern Potoos and as they shined the powerful spotlight on our quarry, we snapped away hoping for the “killer shot” with its bulging yellow eyes wide open ala Marty Feldman in “Young Frankenstein” (and other roles). We succeeded.

It had been a long, wonderful, bird filled, beautiful, successful and milestone achieving day. My 2023 year list was at 1011, and my World list was at 3259. I don’t know what my world photo list was but something around 1930. We headed back to San Blas and had really tasty and filling enchiladas at King Taco’s – wish we had this food in Edmonds. We would have another early start for more birding around San Blas tomorrow.

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blairbirding

Sharing pictures, stories, reflections of my birding adventures – past and present: great places, great people and great birds…

Tag: travel