Birds and Wines of Chile and Argentina – Argentina Part III

February 11, Day 8:

We were back on the road again in the area around Mendoza in the Uco Valley, Argentina – another beautiful day. A word about weather. All in all the weather was great. The only rain was night. Days were generally clear and dry, sometimes a little cloudiness, little wind and temperatures mostly in the low 80’s but sometimes getting into the 90’s. Even in the higher elevations, it was never very cold and we could have left our colder weather gear at home – if we had known for sure. Even though there was generally sun, photo ops were not always perfect as too often birds were backlit or seen against light sky backgrounds. This was Cindy’s first trip with her new camera – the Sony RX10 – a fabulous bridge camera with zoom that went up to 600 mm. It was an experimental learning experience and she did great.

After breakfast we were packed and birding before 9:00 a.m. – very civilized – although some of the “delay” was because the restaurant at the hotel (again not our favorite) was very slow to get going – with everything out at least 15 minutes later than scheduled. At our first stop on Ruta Provincial #186, a Sandy Gallito was added to our trip list and to my World list and world photo list. We also got great photos of Southern Martins, indistinguishable to me from Purple Martins which fly overhead of us back in Edmonds in the Summer.

Sandy Gallito
Southern Martins

A short while later at a “rest stop”, we had one of the best birds of the trip, an Elegant Crested-Tinamou. While attending to other needs, I almost missed it. Although it had moved from the “even better view” earlier, it fortunately stayed in the area and I was able to get some photos. It would have been very disappointing had I missed this very cool bird.

There are more than 45 species of Tinamou – found only in Central and South America. Although they can fly, they are essentially terrestrial birds, often skulky, most often in forested habitats although some like this one are found in the open plains, and usually well camouflaged and hard to see. They range in size from the Dwarf Tinamou (6 inches or so) to the Great Tinamou (about 20 inches) – somewhat larger than the Elegant Crested-Tinamou we were fortunate to see. Earlier, we had heard but not seen the Darwin’s Nothura – another species in the Tinamou group. I have seen or heard 10 species of tinamou but have few photos. Again very happy to get these!!

We left the dry grasslands and found some water and water birds at Laguna Llancanelo Provincial Park. Lots of new birds for the trip with more to come at another wetland after lunch – and I am combining those two stops here. All told 14 new species for my Argentina list and 7 new lifers with lots of photo ops. The lifers were: Lake Duck, Chilean Flamingo, Red-fronted Coot, Yellow-billed Tit-tyrant, Yellow-winged Blackbird, Red Shoveler and Correndera Pipit. Three new Argentina birds that I had seen elsewhere but were nice here were the Many-colored Rush Tyrant, Wren-like Rushbird and Grassland Yellow-finch. Much better photos of some of these species will be in later entries. I am also including more photos of Spectacled Tyrant – a group favorite on the trip.

Chilean Flamingoes
Chilean Flamingo
Red-fronted Coot
Yellow-billed Tit-tyrant
Yellow-winged Blackbird (It was surprisingly hard to get photo showing the yellow in the wing – hardly visible except in flight)
Wren-like Rushbird

Lunch today was a significant departure from our usual approach – although of course there was lots of wine. Today would be a picnic – well sort of. We learned that in addition to his knowledge of birds and wines, guide and tour leader Marcelo Padua was also quite the cook. He and driver Ariel teamed to prepare an extraordinary duck confit lunch prepared over an open fire – sort of in the middle of nowhere. Not really, just felt that way. We were at Campo Carcilauquen Horse Camp sharing the habitat with quite a few equestrians. I will let the photos speak for themselves.

Marcelo and Ariel at Work over the Open Fire
Duck Confit
Duck Breasts on Open Fire
The finished product …Duck Breast, salad and native grown potato chips – Scrumptious!!

As I said, some of the birds and photos were out of order – coming after the duck lunch. I will close the birding photos with two more from later in the day – ones that I really luck. As we were tooling along, I saw a large bird on a post and asked to go back. Somehow it stayed as we pulled alongside and we were all able to get really nice photos of an Aplomado Falcon. The other photo is of one of the many American Kestrels we saw on the trip, caught as it was coming in for a landing.

Definitely my best ever photo of an Aplomado Falcon
American Kestrel Landing

Unfortunately we had a second night at the Hotel Malargue and then an early breakfast (for this trip) and on the road with a really fun day ahead.

February 12, Day 9:

We headed out on Ruta 40 – which seemed to be viewed there something like Route 66 in the U.S. – lots of T-Shirts and souvenirs at gas stops calling that out. This was not going to be a day with lots of birds, but one of them was really important. I got a distant view of a West Peruvian Dove – new for the trip and for Argentina, but seen (and fortunately photographed) 11 years earlier appropriately in Peru – go figure! Motoring further along on Ruta 40, Marcelo called out “Pare, pare”. Ariel stop[ped as requested and we wondered what had been seen. It was a species we had been looking for for several days – a Lesser Rhea – along with the Greater Rhea, South America’s answer to the Ostrich of Africa and the Emu’s of Australia. Also known as Darwin’s Rhea, the flightless Lesser Rhea stands around 3 feet tall and weighs around 40 pounds. A bonus for us was that this was a male and he had young in tow. Males incubate the eggs and then cares for the young for six months or longer. I had seen Greater Rheas in Brazil, and have seen Ostrich and Emu, so I was especially happy to complete the set.

Lesser Rhea
Lesser Rhea with Young

A little further along several small birds flew next to us along the road. My impression was that they were pipits. One landed on a fence post and I was able to get a life photo of the Correndera Pipit through the window. I had seen the species in flight a day earlier, so much better to have the photo.

Correndera Pipit

As I said slow birding this day, but our lunch stop and wine tour was sensational as we visited the La Vigilia vineyard and had lunch at the beyond beautiful Rope Restaurant associated with the winery. It was such a great place I am including lots of photos so people can appreciate that. The food, service and wines were all superb and the setting incredible.

Entrance to Restaurant
Checking In
Rope Menu
At Our Table
Dessert and Dessert Wine

After a very long lunch break, we birded a bit and I added two more lifers, a Glittering-bellied Emerald and a Rufous-tailed Plantcutter. No photo of the hummingbird until later in the trip. My photo that day of the Plantcutter is ID quality at best, so I am including one again from later. Interesting note, that there are three species of Plantcutters – all found only in South America – and currently classified as Cotingas. I included the White-tipped Plantcutter in an earlier post. I saw the third Plantcutter species, the Peruvian Plantcutter in Peru in 2013.

Rufous-tailed Plantcutter

We carried on to Mendoza City with a stop at the Market Manzano Historico. Lots of people having a good time outdoors with some food and trinket booths – a sharp contrast with the luxury of the Rope Restaurant. That night was at the Hotel Huentala in Mendoza. Counting on more but now at 76 lifers for the trip and 143 species for the trip. Hope to get to benchmarks 100 and 200.

Leave a comment