Colombia September 2025 – Introduction and Overview

Some International Background

My first trip to South America was to Argentina in March 1989 mostly in the area of Junin de Los Andes with 4 buddies fly fishing and enjoying great food and spectacular scenery in addition to the wonderful trout. At that time I was more interested in flyfishing than birding but had done a fair amount of birding as well so I kept track of species seen, a total of 41 species and somehow a photo of just one – a Black Necked Swan. My first international birding had been in Trinidad in May 1978, finding 97 species on a trip with friends courtesy of an amazing airfare deal through the now long gone Eastern Airlines that had included birding stops at ABA Biding meccas in South Texas and South Florida. Altogether on that trip we had 178 species of which 143 were new for my then pretty short World Life List (no camera). My next international trip was to the Mai Po Nature Preserve outside of Hong Kong on Christmas Day 1979. The 79 species there was followed three months later in March 1980 with 13 species seen casually on a definitely non-birding vacation visit to Jamaica. No camera on either trip.

It would be another 3.5 years until my next international birding adding 31 species from a single afternoon of birding squeezed into another non-birding vacation, this time to Japan in July 1983. That was it until that flyfishing trip to Argentina which was followed by another flyfishing trip, a very exotic one to the very remote Christmas Island (Kiribati) where only 7 species were seen incidentally as we concentrated on bonefish and other saltwater species in May 1989. By that time, a daughter and a son had been added to our family and birding and fishing both took back seats to child rearing, work and family activities. By April 1997 both kids were old enough to enjoy their first exotic vacation – a week in Costa Rica that included visiting some great lodges with birds, monkeys, butterflies, frogs etc. but no camera – the standard fare for an introduction to the natural history of the tropics and giving me the chance to see 155 species of which 99 were added to my World Life list which then reached 938. Concentration remained on kids and my career including starting my own consulting company in 2000. There was little birding and little fishing until 2002 when as a half time chaperone on my daughter’s trip with the Seattle Youth Symphony to Hungary and the Czech Republic I was able to get away for a half day guided trip in Hungary which produced 54 species – all World lifers.

Snapshot – After the foregoing it was July 2002. My daughter had graduated from high school and would be starting college. My son would be entering high school. My business was underway but with lots of pressure and uncertainty. In 2003 my only “vacation” was a solo mostly birding trip to Australia. With some guiding help only around Brisbane and on my own otherwise, I managed to see 267 species and actually got photos of 7 species. The one guide I was with, Bill Jolly, took photos of many of the species we saw. I have those photos but since I did not take them, I did not use them. So at the end of that trip, my world photo list was 8!! But I was over 1000 species for the world – 1243.

Galah – One of Seven Species Photographed in Australia – 2003

I don’t know if Ebird had yet been invented but I would not start using it for another 7 years until 2010. I am sure I did a little birding in those intervening years but I did not keep lists or records except for new life birds and apparently there were none of those – at least in Washington or elsewhere in the U.S. as I have no records of any except for a single Barred Owl record in Lincoln Park in West Seattle in 2007. For the 8 years following that Hungary excursion, my recorded birding trips (paper records and then later entered into Ebird after the fact) were all international with trips on my own to Australia (2003) as above, Brazil (2005), Kenya (2007) and then Belize (2010). I began taking pictures (I would not yet call them “photographs”) in 2005.

Harpy Eagle Chick – Brazil 2005

In large measure these trips enabled me to deal with pressures from business and domestic issues as I found that birding allowed me to take my mind away from those matters, re-energize and continue on. In 2010 I discovered Ebird and have 10 real time lists from that year, adding 35 species to my then very meager state list but evidencing that birding was becoming an important part of my being. At the end of 2010, Ebird showed that my Washington State Life List was at 235 species; my World Life List was 1959 and I had entered a total of 198 checklists – a number much lower than would have been the case if I had done lists as they occurred instead of retrospectively and only when new lifers were found. And per the above, I had finally started to take photos with only a handful in Australia but with another 59 in Brazil, 142 in Kenya and 19 in Belize. Those percentages would later be seen as unacceptable, but it was a start on a path that would become very important later and is very much so now.

Lilac Breasted Roller – A Favorite from Kenya in 2007

Major Transition – 2011 would begin a number of major changes in my life. My son would be graduating from college. My daughter would be in her first year of residency after Med School. Some major deals in my business would either be closing or falling apart, I would be looking at a separation in my marriage (to be followed by a divorce) and I would be undergoing my first surgery since my tonsils had been removed 60 years earlier. As I confronted all of those matters and especially the surgery for a full replacement of my right shoulder, I was at least unsure of my future and probably a little scared as well. What if that future was one of limited possibilities instead of the creation of new ones? At the top of my bucket list was a desire to see a tiger, in the wild, in India. In January, the month before the scheduled surgery I joined a Victor Emanuel Nature Tour to India that promised birds, the Taj Mahal and a good possibility of seeing my tiger. It was a wonderful trip with several tigers, the magnificent Taj Mahal and 278 bird species with photos of 150 of them.

2011 Tiger in India

Back in the U.S. after India, I had the surgery which at first seemed to have gone well, closed at least one of the pending important business deals, went forward with the separation and continued to use birding in my home state as a diversion – an increasingly active one. My shoulder was not doing well and a re-examination determined that the replacement had not worked and would have to be done again. During that surgery in 2012, it became obvious that the reason it had not at first succeeded was because there was an undetectable infection. The recovery was not fun and I have never regained the full use expected, but now 13 years later, it still works, so I cannot complain. It was a momentous year in other ways as well. We proceeded to a divorce; after another business deal closed and an option was entered that could result in a significant fee later, I contemplated retirement; and I left Seattle and relocated to Edmonds, Washington where I still reside.

When I sat down to write this blog post, I originally intended to just give a background of my birding trips to South America in anticipation of this trip to Colombia, the country which has more species than any other in the world and unlike as in my case is often the first in South America visited by birders since there are so many species to see and get on our lists. Maybe I just needed to revisit those early years and some of my own ghosts and demons and how birding has been so important in dealing with them. But enough of that – back to South America.

South America – That first South America trip to Argentina had great fishing and just the barest taste of bird life. On my own in Brazil in 2005, it had been a perfect escape for 3 weeks combining a visit to Rio, unguided birding at a large ranch in the Pantanal, time in the Amazon with help by a guide for two days and then time on my own at the incredible Iguassu Falls. At the time I was very pleased to have found 280 species but was not really looking to expand a World list. Later in 2013 I went on a guided trip to Peru with 413 species and 127 photos. Now after that trip to Peru and later visits to Ecuador (twice), with trip lists of 450 and 540 species each that Brazil list seems small, and I know that if I did it again with guides, the number would have been twice what I had in 2005.

In 2022 after canceling a number of trips in the Covid Doldrums, spouse Cindy Bailey and I went on a private birding trip to Ecuador and in 2024, even though there were too many “little brown jobs” for her taste, Cindy joined me on a wonderful Wine and Birds tour to Chile and Argentina. We had more birds (153 in Argentina and 104 in Chile) than wine (56 varieties tasted) and a great time. Cindy has learned a lot more about birds than she acknowledges and kindly tolerates my obsession but when a friend and I committed to another trip to Ecuador in 2024, she passed but together we planned a visit to the Galapagos which was wonderful and except for all the Darwin finches, the birds, especially like the boobies and albatrosses were fun for Cindy. When I looked into this Colombia trip, Cindy passed and continued that stance when I committed to a trip back to Brazil – a very different area in that very large country where I might expect 300+ species many of which would be new lifers and/or new life photos.

Enough background except for these numbers: It is June 19th as I start to write this and wait to board my plane for Miami and then on to Barranquilla. My World Life List is 3712 species. I have photos of 2,430 species. We will be birding for 10 and I half days in Northeastern Colombia, an area that includes Santa Marta and Perija with many endemics. For this trip, my organizer, ICARO BIRDING sent a potential list of more than 575 species. After comparing those possibilities with species on my World Life List, I calculated that there is a longshot chance to add 170+ new lifers and 175+ life photos. More realistically maybe 150 of each. My goals are to eventually have 4000 to 4500 species on my World Life List and to have photos of 3000 species. I sure wish I had been taking pictures on those early trips before 2005. Here is the itinerary. I will return to writing this after I have returned, gone over pictures and lists and reflected on the visit.

Colombia Itinerary

  • Day 1 – June 20 Arrival in Barranquilla at 12:50 PM – drive to Cartagena – PM Birding Cienaga de la Virgen  Hotel Cartagena
  • Day 2 – June 21 Matute Birding Reserve: Scaly-breasted Hummingbird, Red-throated Ant Tanager, Black-bellied Wren and others. eBird checklist – 3 hours late afternoon drive back to Barranquilla BH Barranquilla
  • Day 3 – June 22 Km 4 via Palomino and Salamanca – Minca Veranda Hotel
  • Day 4 – June 23 Birding Minca towards Mountain House Lodge Mountain House
  • Day 5 – June 24 San Lorenzo Ridge and around the lodge Mountain House
  • Day 6 – June 25 Minca – Gaviotas – Camarones – Riohacha Hotel Taroa
  • Day 7 – June 26 Los Flamencos Flora & Fauna Sanctuary: Camarones – Valledupar Hotel Sonesta
  • Day 8 – June 27 Tananeos Reserve and Perija Perija Bird Reserve
  • Day 9 – June 28 Birding the Perija Mountain range Perija Bird Reserve
  • Day 10 – June 29 Perija and Valledupar Hotel Sonesta
  • Day 11 – June 30 Valledupar – Barranquilla (birding all the way) BH Hotel
  • Day 12 – July 1 BH – Airport flight at 1:50 PM

Back Home – Reporting/Reflecting on my trip – Overview

I am going to start with the most important comments. Overall the trip went very well – no dangers, no illness, everything went according to schedule, weather was good, guide Breiner Tarazona was great, lots of birds and lots of photos. Flights all worked although some delays and gate relocations caused more stress than I would choose. This was a solo tour with guide Breiner and driver Jeferson in a very comfortable and very capable 4 wheel drive Toyota Fortune. With maybe one exception the lodging was very good to excellent. Food was mostly unremarkable but in quantities significantly greater than needed. Everyone I met, including police officers on FOUR road stops were all friendly or more. Lots of dogs enabling me to send photos back to dog lover Cindy. More city travel than expected or compared to other international trips, but traffic was not bad, roads in general were very good with the exception of the two incredibly challenging “dirt” roads leading up to key areas in the Santa Marta and Perija mountains which were as rough as any roads I had ever traveled. Jeferson was an exceptional driver and often with speeds less than 5 kilometers an hour, got us easily through the tough roads.

Breiner was a great guide and a great human being. Very easy to travel with, good English, friends with everyone we met, and definitely on top of bird identification by sight and sound. He was very patient and particularly good at helping me get on birds buried in the foliage, a major problem for me, aided by his own keen eyes and ears, top notch binoculars, excellent recordings, a good scope, a good laser pointer and a new tool in the arsenal, a very effective heat sensor scope that helped find numerous species.

Breiner Tarazona

Let me get the only two somewhat negatives out of the way: (1) the “potential list” of 500+ species was somewhat misleading as it was not a trip list from a specific similar tour in the past – rather a compendium of all species that were possible to find in the geographic area. This kind of list is often used in tour descriptions and is certainly honest, just not as useful as a list of actual experiences in the past – like an Ebird Trip List from an earlier tour. So the reality was that the likely number of species to be actually seen was maybe 400 at most. I should/could have realized this and in no way would the smaller number have changed my mind about taking the trip. The second minor matter was that with Jeferson and Breiner in the front seats and me in the back, when they conversed in Spanish, as they did often, I felt somewhat left out/isolated. This emphasizes that I wish I had taken Spanish instead of French. Breiner never failed to communicate to me or respond to me in excellent English, just would have been nice to have been more engaged – especially since I understand that Jeferson, who had very little English, is quite the story teller. And in addition to his driving skill, Jeferson was helpful in numerous ways including in spotting some of the birds. Very minor negatives completely overweighed by many positive.

The geography of the trip was essentially in Northeastern Colombia along the Caribbean coast, almost to Venezuela and especially focused on the endemics of Santa Marta and Perija (endemics shared with Venezuela). This is a tiny part of the country and other trips would have produced very different bird lists. Bottom line on this trip was that we had 367 species, with only a few heard only. As expected there was significant overlap with species seen elsewhere so total lifers were 124 and total life photos were 142 (out of a total of 272 species for which I got a photo). Not quite the quantity I had hoped for on either account, but definitely acceptable and worthwhile and the quality was great including some unexpected and unusual finds and photos and excellent coverage of the Santa Marta and Perija endemics (altogether we had 21 endemics). So those life lists that probably get more attention than they should are now at 3836 World Lifers and 2572 photos. With trips that are scheduled for later this year (Amsterdam, hopefully with a day of birding and a birding trip to Southeastern Brazil), I think there is a reasonable chance to get to 4000 species and maybe 2750 to 2800 life photos. And if all goes well trips to Costa Rica and Thailand in 2026 should get me to that 3000 photo goal as well. But those reports are for later. My next post will get into the details of Colombia!!

Hermit Wood-Wren – Santa Marta Endemic

As Colombia Approaches, More Migrants and FINALLY a Flammy Photo!!

On May 7th I ended my long Eastern Washington trip with my stop at Sentinel Bluffs in Grant County, WA adding a Bullock’s Oriole for Washington species #208 for the year and then getting a bit too close to an unseen Bald Eagles nest which had both parents soaring overhead a bit too close for comfort. The remainder of May would be some birding near home in Snohomish County, adding 7 more newly arrived migrants to the state list (Black Headed Grosbeak, Warbling Vireo, Swainson’s Thrush, Purple Martin, Western Flycatcher, Wilson’s Warbler and Western Wood Pewee). I got ok photos for the Wilson’s Warbler and the Black Headed Grosbeak, obviously new for the year, and also had nice photo ops for a Red Breasted Sapsucker, Anna’s Hummingbird and a distant Barred Owl – always a good find.

Black Headed Grosbeak FOY
Wilson’s Warbler FOY
Red Breasted Sapsucker
Anna’s Hummingbird
Barred Owl

There were a lot of things going on in my personal life – nothing terrible, just a lot to do, so I thought there might be only one more trip to Eastern Washington before leaving for Colombia on June 19th. Ideally that would have been a marathon trip picking up some new arrivals and then ending with a visit to Liberty, Washington, my go to spot for a Flammulated Owl and just maybe finally get my first photo of one in Washington. Almost but not quite. Instead there would be only a shorter trip to Eastern Washington on May 28th with the possibility of a Liberty trip in June.

Our May 28th trip (again with Tom St. John) began with a FOY MacGillivray’s Warbler at what has become an almost guaranteed spot for them at Snoqualmie Pass and then a good visit to Bullfrog Pond just West of Cle Elum where we picked up FOY Veery and Willow Flycatcher and also grabbed my only photos this year of a Pileated Woodpecker.

MacGillivray’s Warbler FOY
Veery – FOY
Pileated Woodpecker

Rather than heading to the Northern Pacific Railroad Ponds which is my usual stop after Bullfrog, we instead visited Robinson Canyon where among other species we would look for and find Yellow Breasted Chats. Also there were several Lazuli Buntings and FOY Cedar Waxwing and Townsend Solitaire.

Yellow Breasted Chat FOY
Lazuli Bunting

When Tom and I planned the trip, the top targets, in addition to new migrant arrivals were two woodpecker species – Lewis’s and White Headed. We thus headed to North Wenas Road where we found a White Headed Woodpecker near a private road, Kindle Lane, where I have had them in the past. Before that we made a brief tour up Durr Road where we found our usual Mountain Bluebirds and both Brewer’s and Vesper Sparrows and along N. Wenas Road we had FOY Dusky Flycatcher, Vaux’s Swift and Eastern Kingbird. It took awhile, but I finally heard the call of a White Headed Woodpecker which gave us decent looks and a chance for a photo. We also heard a Gray Flycatcher (FOY) and had a really crappy look at a Lewis’s Woodpecker, not good enough to change our plans to carry on to Oak Creek and then to Bethel Ridge.

White Headed Woodpecker FOY

At Oak Creek I was shocked to see no Lewis’s Woodpeckers as we moved up the road into the Canyon and back. In years past I have had many close sightings there. At the base of the road, along the highway we finally got some decent looks, but never the eye level closeups I had expected in the Canyon. We also failed to find my much wanted Ash Throated Flycatcher, a species I have seen there in past visits and which had been reported this year as well.

Lewis’s Woodpecker

Although it was getting late, we decided to carry on to Bethel Ridge Road. In years past, its a place where I have had every woodpecker species found in Washington except Acorn Woodpecker and it has been good for White Headed Woodpecker and both Red Naped and Williamson’s Sapsuckers which were at the top of our target list there. It was really slow with only five species and our only woodpecker was a Hairy Woodpecker. The Chipping Sparrows we heard and saw but did not photograph were new for the year.

Hairy Woodpecker

All told for the day, we had 82 species of which 12 were new for the year for me bringing my Washington year total to 228. Including species seen earlier in the year in Japan and in South Carolina, my world year total was 357 which compares to the 432 species seen by this time last year which turned out to be by far the biggest world list of my birding life with more than 1420. Although I have several international trips (Colombia, Brazil and Costa Rica) later this year, the total will be nowhere close to that but hopefully there will be at least another 290 lifers getting me to 4,000!!

As it turned out, Tom and I would be able to do a trip to Liberty, Washington. Rather than a full day birding, we left at an unheard of late hour of 1 pm and began our birding at almost 3:30 pm at a place that was new for me, King Horn Slough, a couple of miles west of Bullfrog Pond near Cle Elum. The main reason for the visit was that American Redstarts had been found there. Although I had seen them in 5 other counties in Washington, this would be my first sighting of them in Kittitas County where they are rare. I have also seen them in 17 other states (all in Eastern or Central US) and two other countries, Mexico and Belize. The area was very birdy but with most birds either heard only or seen very briefly. We heard multiple American Redstarts, at least 3 and possibly as many as 5, but views were challenging and photos are ID quality only. Unexpected but not surprising as I have had them in most other areas where I have seen the Redstarts we also had at least one Red-Eyed Vireo, another new species for Kittitas County for me.

American Redstart FOY and Kittitas County Lifer – #217

On the way to Liberty, we stopped at the Swauk Cemetery which can be very birdy and is definitely interesting as some of the “inhabitants” date back to the 19th Century. I was hoping for a White Breasted Nuthatch but we found only Pygmy and Red Breasted Nuthatches in addition to Evening Grosbeaks, Chipping Sparrows and Cassin’s Finches.

Cassin’s Finch

The history of Liberty Washington can be traced back to the discovery of some gold there in 1867. My history traces back to May 2016 when a midday visit yielded nothing of note, but got a lot more interesting in July 2017 when a several hour trip beginning at 8:30 pm produced 24 species including Common Poorwill, Common Nighthawk, Great Horned Owl and most importantly 2 Flammulated Owls which were “heard only”. After that visit I had returned 8 more times and altogether had a total of 26 Flammulated Owl observations – again all of which were heard only. This was definitely a nemesis bird as the only photo I had of one was from Utah in June 2019 and there had been an additional 11 trips observing at least another 20 Flammulated Owls in Washington with only a single brief visual and NO PHOTOS! So you can understand why I really wanted a photo this time. So I came with more “artillery” in the form on an infrared spotting scope, two powerful flashlights and the keen eyes of Tom St. John.

Flammulated Owl – Life Photo – Utah 2019

My strategy at Liberty is to bird along the Liberty Road and Forest Service roads for about 5 miles getting to a higher elevation where several Forest Service Roads intersect and then wait until dark and only then begin the search for the owls and also for Common Nighthawks, Common Poorwills and possibly other owl species. On earlier visits in addition to the Flammulated Owls, I have had Long Eared, Barred, Great Horned and even a Spotted Owl there. It is also a good place for Sooty Grouse, seven species of flycatcher and 5 thrush species, especially Hermit Thrush, and Western Tanagers and Cassin’s Vireos. Tom and I began birding there around 6:30 pm and then killed time until it began getting dark around 9:40 pm hearing many Hermit Thrushes (FOY). In the past I have had Common Nighthawks at dusk and then generally first hear Common Poorwills. A bit later as I make my way downhill with stops every quarter mile I listen for owls.

The good news is that it was not very cold. The better news was that there was very little wind. News I was not so sure about was that there was an almost full moon. On at least one other occasion I had very bad owling with a full bright moon. As almost 20 minutes passed before we heard anything, I wondered if the moon really was an issue. Then not far from a spot that I have marked as a place where I have heard seemingly close Flammulated Owls in the past, we finally heard something. Glad to get it, but the FOY Common Nighthawk above us was not our prime target. It continued and then we heard something else in the distance. I am not 100% certain but the notes matched the call of a Long Eared Owl. We got out of the car and began walking along the road in silence listening for any calls. Tom went back uphill and I started downhill. Maybe ten minutes later, and not much further down from my “favorite spot” I heard the unmistakable patterned hoots of a Flammulated Owl. “Tom, I’ve got one.” Using both the single note and multiple note calls on one of my apps, I began a long conversation with the owl and slowly it seemed to come in closer. This is where team work is critical. Tom joined me and began searching the trees with his bright light looking for eyeshine or better yet an owl. It took only a little while and now it was Tom’s turn, “It’s here.” And there it was, in the open in a tree maybe 25 feet back from the road and also 25 feet up in the tree. And let me repeat: “In the open”. These owls are very small, no more than 8 inches and if there is foliage, they are very hard to see; but they do come into the open and this was it. After so many misses, here was a photo op. Click, click, click, click. Finally a first Flammulated Owl photo in my home state of Washington, photo number 420 (of the 432 seen).

Washington Life Photo of a Flammulated Owl

If the night had ended right then, it would have been a massive success, but now it seemed like the time had come as we heard more calls. Working our way further down the road, I finally heard a distant Common Poorwill and then another. And another Common Nighthawk. And another Flammulated Owl and then another and another. It is always hard to know if you are hearing the same owl in a different spot or if it is a new one. At one time, however, we heard calls in rapid succession from three different spots. It was far enough from the first owl, that we were pretty certain we had 4 Flammulated Owls and with more calls seemingly further off, we are pretty confident that there were 5 and possibly 6. Importantly for me, one of them was again pretty close and this time I found it with my spot light and then when Tom got his light on it, it was again picture time. And unlike the first owl which always had its back to us or was turned sideways, this time there were brief moments with direct views – and yes they really do have two eyes!! A bit later we saw an owl fly from tree to distant tree on the other side of the road. Maybe it was an owl heard earlier or maybe another, but for sure a third visual.

Our Second Cooperative Flammulated Owl

We had been owling for over 90 minutes and knew that we had a 2.5 hour drive to return home. I am sure that we could have found more owls if we had retraced steps and gone down one of the other Forest Service roads. We opted to be happy (ecstatic?) with our success and head home, listening for calls on our way back down to the highway. Nothing new. No traffic and we were back in Edmonds before 2:00 a.m. Not the best for sleeping but it comes with owling and in fact I still was somewhat high from finally get a long hoped for photo and that coupled with an early “I need to go out” call from our dog Chica, meant I probably got at most a few hours of sleep. But I will pay that price anytime!!

Missing Photos in Washington

Although I started birding in Washington when I was here as a summer law clerk in 1972, I did not start taking photos until 2011 and what an awesome first photo that was – a Ross’s Gull at Palmer lake on December 21st. From then on, adding pictures became a regular part of my birding. The Ross’s Gull was species #278 on my Washington list so there was a lot of catching up to try for a new goal – not just adding to my state life list, but now having a state photo list as well. Not surprisingly some of those birds seen earlier without photos, the real rarities, are still on my list of missing state photos. Those include: Black Tailed Gull (September 2011), Wood Sandpiper (August 2011), Steller’s Eider (November 1986), McKay’s Bunting (February 1979), and Eurasian Skylark (June 1976). Also not surprisingly, I have not seen any of those species in Washington since those initial, camera-less occasions. There are 7 more species I have seen but not photographed in the state: Boreal Owl, Upland Sandpiper, Eurasian Hobby, Nazca Booby, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Red Flanked Bluetail, and Lucy’s Warbler. With the exception of the Boreal Owl, all are mega-rarities each with its own “why I missed a photo story”:

Lucy’s Warbler – seen very briefly in thick foliage and a pelting rainstorm in Neah Bay in November 6, 2014 and only a single state record the following year.

Lucy’s Warbler – May 2019 – New Mexico

Eurasian Hobby – my fault, missed photo on quick flyover at Neah Bay, October 30, 2014. Seen by others that day but no photo. The following day it was photo friendly but I was not able to stay over. No records since.

Eurasian Hobby – Tanzania February 2023

Nazca Booby – scope view August 17, 2022 from my condo in Edmonds, WA as it perched on ship going north on Puget Sound. One subsequent record the following year.

Nazca Booby (San Diego Bay) – March 2018

Red-flanked Bluetail – seen in heavy rain on March 19, 2022 in Lake Forest Park – no photo op.

Red-flanked Bluetail – Idaho January 2017

Eurasian Tree Sparrow – my worst miss. I actually saw it in Neah Bay and had a photo op on October 26, 2019, but stupidly had assumed it was an odd House Sparrow since “how could a Eurasian Tree Sparrow have been there”. Field notes confirmed my error and it was seen and reported by others the next day.

Eurasian Tree Sparrow – Introduced – Missouri October 2018Also have photo in Japan 2025 of natural

Upland Sandpiper – a flyover at the Game Range at Ocean Shores on June 6, 2013 as I was standing next to Dennis Paulson with no photo op. There have been two records in Washington since then. I was 30 minutes late for one of them again at Ocean Shores (in October 2020) and was not aware of the other in Douglas County in August 2022).

Upland Sandpiper – Maine – June 2015

Wood Sandpiper – no camera when seen in Skagit County on August 11, 2011. Have many international (South Africa, India, Kenya, Tanzania and Indonesia) but no other ABA sightings.

Wood Sandpiper – Tanzania 2023
Eurasian Skylark – British Columbia May 2018 (Introduced) Also have photo of natural in Japan 2025
Steller’s Eider June 2018 Oregon Coast

Boreal Owl – with the Flammulated Owl now off this list, the Boreal Owl is my official nemesis. I have heard them 5 times at Salmo Pass in Pend Oreille County (in September and October with a single brief visual of a flyover) and 4 times at Sunrise at Mount Rainier (Late September to early October with a distant view of one buried in foliage).

What are the odds of getting photos of any of these 12 misses? First off, I have photos from other places for all of these species except the Black Tailed Gull, Boreal Owl and McKay’s Bunting. It is possible that the McKay’s Bunting will be lumped with Snow Bunting to lose its “species status”. Very unlikely I will ever see one. I may someday get a photo of a Black Tailed Gull in Asia but it is extremely unlikely to see one let alone get a photo of one in Washington. The same holds for Eurasian Hobby, Nazca Booby, Lucy’s Warbler, Eurasian Tree Sparrow or Red Flanked Bluetail. Wood Sandpiper is a possibility but very unlikely. I have a fairly recent photo of a Steller’s Eider from Oregon – not far from coastal Washington, so it is a possibility someday. Eurasian Skylark has been seen at Neah Bay – unsure if it was from the now almost non-existent group from British Columbia or a true Asian vagrant. So it is a highly unlikely possibility.

So that leaves Upland Sandpiper and Boreal Owl. There is a small chance for the former and I AM GOING TO GET A PHOTO OF A BOREAL OWL IN WASHINGTON!!!! Maybe this year.

Mid April to Mid May – Migration Begins in Washington

In general the peak of migration in Washington is probably the first week or so in May but some of the migrating species begin to return as early as February and in-migration continues into June and out migration begins as early as late July for some species. Although I could certainly put together a timeline for my intersections with each migrating species using the hundreds of Ebird reports I have for April through June (I have 800 checklists just for May), I am not yet willing to undertake that project. I know other birders keep track of the arrival dates each year for species first appearing in their yards and they suggest that there are pretty tight windows for each appearance – a species returning each year within even the same two or three day period. With our earlier trip to Japan and upcoming trips to Colombia and Brazil, this will be another year with lots of international birding and not unlike most of the past 5 years, I again will be doing less birding in Washington than I did say in the 2010’s. But every year as migrating birds are returning, some internal switch is pulled and the urge to see the returning species compels me to get in the car and go look.

There have only been a few such trips this year, but the birding has been good and this blog post covers that experience, birding in Washington from April 14th through May 7th. I have another visit to Eastern Washington planned for next Tuesday. If it goes well, maybe I may revisit this post and add those observations. If it goes really well, maybe it will become a new blog post on its own. On April 13th my Washington State year list was 155 species – all but 6 of which were seen in relatively short forays in Western Washington. On April 17th Cindy was scheduled for foot surgery that would require me to stick around home both to look after her, a very undemanding patient, and more relevantly at least for birding activities to be in charge of dog Chica’s two walks a day making anything other than short departures from home impossible. Anticipating that period of constraint, I planned two trips to Eastern Washington – solo trip to Kittitas County on April 14th and a trip with Tom St. John on April 16th covering some of the same ground as the trip on the 14th but adding a venture into Grant County primarily to see a Burrowing Owl.

April 14th

On the 14th I followed my usual route for a first Eastern Washington trip in the Spring with stops at Bullfrog Pond, Wood Duck Road and the Burlington Northern Railroad Ponds in Cle Elm. Bullfrog Pond was almost birdless and the only new species added at Wood Duck Road was a Cassin’s Finch. It wasn’t much different at the Railroad Ponds where at least I did add Pygmy Nuthatches (they nest there) and Northern Rough Winged Swallows. On the way to my next important stop, the sagebrush area on Durr Road, just south of Ellensburg, I added my first of year Osprey and Turkey Vulture. I arrived at Durr Road just after 9:00 a.m. and although I had seen 29 species, only 5 were new for the year.

Pygmy Nuthatch – Railroad Ponds
First of Year Osprey

First of Year (FOY) targets at Durr Road were Brewer’s and Vesper Sparrows with Sage Thrasher likely and Loggerhead Shrike and Prairie Falcon possible. I found the first three but not the last two, however a surprise was a FOY Wild Turkey that crossed the road in front of me and then disappeared in the sagebrush.

Brewer’s Sparrow
Vesper Sparrow
Sage Thrasher

Durr Road is one of the best places in Washington to find both Mountain and Western Bluebirds. I had seen both earlier in the year on my first Eastern Washington foray but it is hard to pass up a photo of the electric blue Mountain Bluebird and any time I get a photo of a seemingly camera-phobic Black-billed Magpie, I like to include them.

Mountain Bluebird
Black Billed Magpie

I had an ulterior motive for this trip that determined the next part of this journey. Although I am not a dedicated “County Lister”, Ebird automatically tracks how many species I have seen in each county in Washington so I am aware of the totals. I do try to see every new species in my home Snohomish County but otherwise generally do not chase a new species for any other county. I had noted that my county list for Yakima County was 199 species. I had also noted that surprisingly I had never seen a Cackling Goose in Yakima County. So also noting that they were reported at Kerry’s Pond in Yakima County and knowing that some other species new for the year were likely there, I back tracked to Interstate 5 and then headed south on Interstate 82 and after a brief and unsuccessful attempt to find White Throated Swifts at the Selah Canyon rest area where at least I did add FOY Cliff Swallows I made a quick stop at Pumphouse Road and the Toppenish National Wildlife Refuge where I missed a couple of targets and then headed east on Yakima Valley Highway to get to Kerry’s Pond.

Indeed there was a Cackling Goose at the pond – in fact lots of them, estimated at 250 but maybe more. Thus Yakima County became the 10th county in Washington where I have seen 200 or more species. I had seen Cackling Goose in Western Washington earlier in 2025, so not new for the year, however three other species at the Pond were new for the year – American Avocet, Black Necked Stilt and Redhead.

Cackling Goose – Species #200 for Yakima County
Black Necked Stilt – FOY
Distant American Avocet – FOY

I retraced my steps and headed back north to Kittitas County again on Interstate 82 where I had a White Throated Swift fly overhead – species 170 for Washington at that point. I then headed east on Interstate 5 getting to Vantage and then accessing Recreation Road looking for new species for the year. I added Say’s Phoebe, California Quail and Rock Wren but was unable to add either Canyon Wren or Chukar which were both possible. It was getting late as I started towards home (160 miles away) heading west on Old Vantage Highway with a stop at the Wildhorse Wind Farm hoping again for a possible Loggerhead Shrike, Prairie Falcon or Chukar, all of which I have seen there. No luck on any of those but I did find a rather uncommon for the area Rough Legged Hawk, a species I had somehow missed in Western Washington previously.

Say’s Phoebe – FOY
Rock Wren
Rough Legged Hawk

There were no exceptional sightings that day but I had seen 61 species, added 19 FOY’s and reached 200 species for Yakima County – and had thoroughly enjoyed the long day in good weather. I would be back to Eastern Washington in two days.

April 16th

Tom St. John and I got off to a reasonably early start that allowed us to get to Cle Elum at 7:45 a.m. Based on my experience two days earlier, we decided to skip Bullfrog Pond and Wood Duck Road and head straight for the Railroad Ponds in South Cle Elum. We spent over an hour there and had 30 species. We missed an almost great photo op for a picture of a Sharp Shinned Hawk (FOY) that flew by us and perched in the open – only to fly off as soon as we were able to get cameras ready. My only photos were again of a Pygmy Nuthatch and its close relative Red Breasted Nuthatch. White Breasted Nuthatch is also possible there but I have not seen one there recently.

We made a quick search in South Cle Elum itself hoping for Cassin’s Finch or better yet, Evening Grosbeaks – nada. So we continued east to Durr Road. Nothing uncommon there with pictures again of Mountain Bluebird and Brewer’s and Vesper Sparrows. No Wild Turkey but a nice photo of one of the many Western Meadowlarks. We visited the reliable Osprey nest at the intersection of Canyon Road and Thrall Road and decided to then skip the sage area between Ellensburg and Vantage and head directly to Grant County across the Colombia River.

Western Meadowlark
Osprey Near Nest

Tom and I had seen Burrowing Owls in Grant County in 2023. They are regular there in the Spring and seem to particularly like a large rockpile on Road D Northwest near Ephrata where they were being seen every day. We got to the rockpile and began our search – nothing for more than 30 minutes. Just as I was about to give up and head home, Tom spotted one flying from one rocky area to another – but then it disappeared. So we knew one was “there”, but where exactly was “there”? Tom kept watch from his spot near the road and I hiked around the entire rock pile – still nothing. I stopped at a spot maybe 30 yards from Tom and “clapped my hands” – not expected to draw out the owl, but just to feel like I was trying something. Immediately it flew up from its to us invisible perch maybe 15-20 feet from where I was standing. It had clearly been there the whole time but was so well camouflaged against the rocks, that we had missed it. It landed on a conspicuous rock at the top of the large pile in the open and posed for photos for the next 15 minutes plus. A photographer’s dream in good light.

The Burrowing Owl was new for the year and I also saw an “interesting” sparrow fly by on one of my circumnavigations of the rockpile. Later I heard the buzzy call of a Grasshopper Sparrow, known to be in the area and new for the year. I had seen a report of a Loggerhead Shrike on Baird’s Springs Road not too far from us and a place I had not visited in a while. We only had three species there but one was the Loggerhead Shrike, a good FOY.

Loggerhead Shrike – FOY

Continuing West, we stopped at Frenchman’s Coulee – no Canyon Wren or White Throated Swifts but we enjoyed distant views of male and female Northern Harriers hunting the northern canyon walls – once swooping down and apparently missing some prey animal. We crossed the Colombia where work continues on the bridge but there were no traffic delays. We briefly birded the Rocky Coulee area on Recreation Road but it was very quiet and we added only California Quail for the day. At the Wild Horse Energy site we again added a single species – Horned Lark – probably saw a dozen or so. That was it for the day – 46 species for the day including 4 new year birds for me. The highlight was clearly the Burrowing Owl – glad Tom’s patience paid off.

California Quail – Recreation Road
Horned Lark

Cindy’s foot surgery went well but she would be wearing a heavy duty air cast walking boot for 6 weeks. She was able to walk from the start but anything major was out of the question for at least a couple of weeks. She was hoping to go on a long planned trip to Tucson with girlfriends on May 5th. Her two week after surgery visit with her doctor was positive and she got a greenlight to make the trip if she took it easy. She needed the break and was able to go. We took Chica to her favorite vacation place – Klaus Mountain Dog Ranch and that enabled me to be free for a few days and get in a trip to Okanogan and Grant Counties seeking to add new birds for the year and hopefully to add Okanogan County to my 200 species list. I had added Black Throated Gray Warbler and Cinnamon Teal to my 2025 Washington year list on short trips between my dog walking duties while Cindy was in the early stage of recovery, so my 2025 state list was at 180 species. In addition to getting to 200 species for Okanogan County, I also hoped to pass 200 species for the year for Washington.

May 5th

Cindy had an early flight out on May 5, and I was able to drop her off at the airport where a wheel chair awaited to get her to the plane, and still get a relatively early start for what was sure to be a very long three day birding trip. It had been 3 weeks since I had visited Bullfrog Pond in April. Surely some new birds had arrived. As soon as I got out of the car, I heard a FOY Yellow Warbler. Later I would hear and briefly see a FOY Nashville Warbler in addition to previously seen Common Yellowthroats and Yellow Rumped Warblers. I also had a FOY Hammond’s Flycatcher and heard a distant Red Naped Sapsucker. I was expecting Swainson’s Thrush, Black Headed Grosbeak and Warbling Vireo but had none of them. I also had my FOY Rufous Hummingbird, a good thing since the hummingbird feeders Aja Woodrow’s house in Cle Elum seemed inactive. But at the Ranger’s Station in Cle Elum I had a very active feeding flock of 25+ FOY Evening Grosbeaks. Unfortunately due to operator error later that night I erased all pictures from the first day of this trip including what may have been my best ever photo of a Rufous Hummingbird. The only photo I can add from the first part of the day is a decent shot of a Common Yellowthroat at Bullfrog Pond.

Common Yellowthroat – Bullfrog Pond

In addition to adding new species to my 2025 year list, I had defined specific goals of adding species to my Grant County List (then at 185 species) and Okanogan County (then at 194 species). I figured I would be able to add maybe 6 species for Grant County and that many or more for Okanogan County. Accordingly I skipped my usual birding haunts and following data from Ebird either for recent observations or observations from May 2024, headed to targeted spots in Grant County where my first official stop was at Soap Lake looking for new waterfowl or shorebirds for my list. On Interstate 90 on the way I had my FOY Swainson’s Hawk. At Soap Lake, I did not find any of the ones I had thought possible but did add a very surprising Willet. At the time there had been no reports of this species here so I thought I might be the first, but it turned out someone else had seen it a couple of hours before but the report had not yet been posted. Both a First of Year for me in addition to being new for the county and also my first east of the Cascades and possibly the first I had seen in breeding plumage in Washington.

Willet – Soap Lake

Not new for the County, but new for the year, I also had Least Sandpipers and Yellow Headed Blackbirds at Soap Lake in addition to the many Ruddy Ducks and Eared Grebes in breeding plumage that are easy to find there. Continuing to look for new shorebirds and waterfowl for the County I continued north to Lake Lenore and then Blue Lake and Banks Lake. These are large bodies of water and I acknowledge that my search was not meticulous, but not much was seen. I had a surprising Peregrine Falcon at Dry Falls SP in addition to some White Throated Swifts. Along the way I also numerous FOY Western Kingbirds, often in pairs. Leaving Grant County I continued on through part of Douglas County to get to my real destination southern Okanogan County where hopes were high for shorebirds that had been reported at two places I had never visited – Cassimer Bar and the Monse River. The former was very interesting and I probably did not cover the right spots in the very large area. The latter was confusing as I never found any spots that looked like shorebird habitat. There had been reports of good target lifer species at both places from the day before.

At Cassimer Bar I did add a new Okanogan County species – a FOY American Bittern – buried and invisible but noisy in a reed bed and also a FOY Bank Swallow. I had spent more time than intended at Cassimer Bar and it was getting late. My initial plan had been to spend the night in Omak 30 miles north of the Bar. It was already 6:00 p.m. There had been a number of good reports with county lifer possibilities from Cameron Lake Road which was close to halfway to Omak. It is a favorite birding place but is mostly a dirt road and takes a long time to bird the 30 mile loop. Should I bird it now or wait until tomorrow? I decided to “go now” and that turned out to be a really good decision as I added 4 new species for Okanogan County: Lark Sparrow (also a FOY), Black Necked Stilt, American Avocet and Long Billed Dowitcher. I had photos of all of them – but with a single keyboard error, poof!! Gone. But the observations hold and now my county list was at 199!! I got into Omak at just after 9 p.m. and grabbed a late dinner at the Mexican Restaurant next to the Omak Inn where I would stay. By the time I got into my room at the motel it was almost 10 p.m. and I had been on the road for 16 hours – my excuse for the operator error deleting my photos. I needed one more species to get to 200 – many reports said that White Throated Swift was essentially guaranteed at Pipestone Canyon, That was plan for the next day.

May 6th

This was going to be an interesting day. My targeted destination, Pipestone Canyon, was about 43 miles from the Omak Inn, heading south on Highway 97 and then turning west on Highway 20 towards Twisp and Winthrop turning off to Upper Beaver Creek Road then to Lester Road and finally to Campbell Lake Road which dead ended at the Pipestone Canyon Trailhead. For the last 10 miles or more I did not see another vehicle or human being – just beautiful scenery on a beautiful day. I had never been to this area and it was easy to fall in love with the rolling hills, forests, snow clad mountains in the distance and clear blue skies. Just before reaching the trailhead I ran into a parked car. A couple was walking their dog. I was not yet sure that I was near the trailhead and they assured me I was close – just past Campbell Lake and be careful of rattlesnakes – but only later when it got warmer. The temperature then at around 8:00 a.m. was barely over 40 degrees and it felt that cold at least in the shadows of the trees in the forest.

At Campbell Lake I found what I thought was going to be species #200 for Okanogan County as I saw first a female Barrow’s Goldeneye which was then joined by a male. I was mistaken as the Barrow’s Goldeneye was one of my unfound targets in Grant County the day before but had been seen in Okanogan County in June 2013. Any disappointment at that error was replaced by the very fun spectacle of watching the two ducks go through a very touching courtship ritual, the first time I had seen such a display.

It was then into Pipestone Canyon itself. I have to rank it as one of the loveliest places I have birded. Tall trees, wildflowers in bloom, “pipestones” atop the canyon walls and blue skies. A bit cool to start and then warmer as the morning progressed. I did not see a soul for the first hour and then a mountain biker rode by, stopping for a short pleasant chat. The serenity, beauty, quiet and being alone made it a spiritual experience as my eyes and ears were concentrating on song and movement of any birds to be found. It helped, too, that I quickly found White Throated Swifts flying along the canyon walls – species #200 for Okanogan County a fait accompli.

Scenery Approaching the Canyon

I spent almost two hours at Campbell Lake and in Pipestone Canyon and between them had 25 species. The most frustrating one was a Williamson’s Sapsucker. I heard its slow syncopated tapping and then its “chyaah” call. It was several layers back in the trees and not visible. I heard it again and then played some drumming calls on my phone. I got a response and it flew past me, circled and returned to the distant trees. I tried again and just got the distant response, probably translated to something like – “Ha, you are not a potential mate or competitor, so forget it.” I would have loved a photo but did not want to further disturb the quiet of the place or the sapsucker. I left Merlin on sound identification mode but that was my last use of playback. Much more cooperative were the Lewis’s Woodpeckers. They seemed to be everywhere, at least a half dozen. They remained up high as they flew from tree to tree so not the greatest photos, but they are such unique woodpeckers and any photo is worthwhile.

Lewis’s Woodpecker

A bird that did accommodate the camera at eye level was a Northern House Wren which began singing/scolding as I passed by its favorite little area and continued for several moments. At several times during my hike, I also heard the beautiful cascading song of the Canyon Wren, my first of the year. I separated at least three calling from both sides of the canyon, up high, and I suspect there were more than that. No photos. Cassin’s Finches and Mountain Chickadees were also quite active. As I was leaving the Canyon, I heard a seemingly familiar song but as is often the case, my hearing was better than my processing and I just could not recall what it was. Merlin to the rescue as it told me that we were hearing a Lazuli Bunting. Of course, the habitat of brushy slopes was perfect, but I think I was not expecting it “so far north” or maybe that early. It was easy to track down and obliged with a lovely photo op. The Williamson’s Sapsucker, Canyon and Northern House Wrens, Lewis’s Woodpecker and Lazuli Bunting were all new for Washington in 2025.

Northern House Wren Singing
Cassin’s Finch
Lazuli Bunting

With one county listing mission accomplished it was time to embark on a new one although I would have enjoyed more time in Pipestone Canyon. It looked like a great place for owls, but I was surprised to check Ebird records and find only a single owl species report there in the past 5 years – a Northern Pygmy Owl in November 2021. My new county listing mission was to finally do some birding in Ferry County. There are 39 counties in Washington State. As I was leaving Pipestone Canyon. I had seen birds in all of them except Ferry County. The lowest county total was a paltry 26 species for Skamania County more than half of which were from a chase to find a Hooded Warbler on the Cape Horn Trail in July 2013. Twenty-six is a bit embarrassing but ZERO is downright shameful. I had another day and a half of “freedom” to keep on birding, so it was time to bird in Ferry County which was the next county to the east of Okanogan County. Well it may have been the next county east but Okanogan is a big county and there are just not that many roads between the two, so to get to Republic in Ferry County was going to be almost 100 miles and take almost two hours.

And it would have taken just those two hours except…as I was heading out on Campbell Lake Road, a small deer bounded out in front of me coming from brush to the right of my car. I was not going very fast – maybe 30 mph, but I most definitely did not want to hit that deer having had a disastrous encounter with a small group and avoiding three but hitting one five years ago near Cle Elum. I braked and swerved to the right and thankfully missed the deer. BUT…the road was narrow and there was almost no shoulder so I ran into some of the brush that had hidden the deer. I hit it so softly that I honestly felt that at most there would be some scratches. Today’s cars however are pretty flimsy, plastic not metal, so there was a dent – actually more like a puncture in the passenger side front fender as shown below.

Car Damage

At first I had not even gotten out to look at the damage – expecting just a scrape as indicated but a warning light on my dashboard told me that my front right turn signal was not working, so I got out to check and got the bad news. But OMG it could have been so much worse as there was zero impact on drivability. Had it been worse it would have been a disaster – miles from anywhere, no cell reception, and no traffic on the road over the last few hours other than that mountain biker and the dog walkers. Nothing to do about it then, so I got back into the car and headed towards Ferry County.

It was just after noon when I added my first birds for Ferry County as I drove into a forested area on a side road just off State Route 20 near Republic. I think the first species was actually an American Robin and it was then followed by Mountain Bluebird, Mountain Chickadee, Red Breasted Nuthatch, Pine Siskin and Yellow Rumped Warbler. Nothing exciting but at least I was on the board. I had not planned any specific birding in the unfamiliar county and did not know of any don’t miss hotspots, so I just kept birding as I drove on stopping at a couple of ponds/small lakes along the road.

Mountain Bluebird

I added a species here and a species there with the first species of note being my FOY Sora heard whinnying at one of the roadside ponds. I had at least 4 more Soras at other stops – all heard, none seen. The only other noteworthy species for me was my first Blue Winged Teal of the year, seen together with Cinnamon Teal at one of the ponds with Sora. Altogether I had 44 species with the last being a Northern Rough-winged Swallow at the Keller Ferry which would take me across the Columbia River to Lincoln County.

FOY Blue winged Teal – Ferry County
Northern Rough Winged Swallow – Keller Ferry – Ferry County

It was 5:30 p.m. when I drove off the ferry onto Lincoln County. Now what? My county list for Lincoln County was an unimpressive 137 species mostly (99 species) from trips in May and June when I was birding along the way as I was heading to Spokane or Pend Oreille Counties with the others being from October again as I was headed to Pend Oreille County. My options were either to continue birding in Lincoln County spending the night who knows where or to continue on back to Grant County and try once again for some new birds there to at least get in sight of 200 species (then being at 186). I made it back to Soap Lake where I spent the night at the Masters Motel – let’s just say it is “dated”.

May 7th

My motel was just across the street from the south end of Soap Lake so I was there early hoping for something new. No Willet this morning but I did find a FOY Semipalmated Plover which I thought might be new for the county but saw that I had one there in September 2022 – it is not common. It was surprisingly my first for the year – I have not yet visited the Coast. I then moved on to first Lion’s Park and then Oasis Park in Ephrata – places that are migration traps and my hope was to find Nashville and or MacGillivray’s Warblers, both of which had been reported there earlier in the week. I missed both of those warblers but had a quick glance at a Townsend’s Warbler which was new for Grant County. My best sighting was of Matt Yawney who also could be called “Mr. Grant County”. He is a great birder and I am sure has the largest list for Grant County and has also found many rarities. As I was talking with Matt a pair of Western Kingbirds flew into the tree right over my head – an irresistible photo op. I also had a FOY Western Tanager there.

Semipalmated Plover – Soap Lake – FOY
Western Kingbird – Lion’s Park, Ephrata – Note thin white outer tail feathers

I checked recent reports and did not find any realistic opportunities to add new species for Grant County so I decided to go to some of my regular Grant County stops and maybe add some new year birds and to include Sentinel Bluffs – a birdy area south of Vantage that Matt said might be a good bet for a Nashville Warbler. My first stop was at the Warden Lake Access Road. The only new bird was a FOY Ring Necked Pheasant and I also got photos of one of the very loud Marsh Wrens and Yellow Headed Blackbirds and a posing Western Meadowlark.

Marsh Wren – Warden Lake
Yellow-Headed Blackbird – Warden Lake
Western Meadowlark

My next stop was at Lind Coulee where I hoped to find Clark’s Grebe or any tern. No birds in the water at all except a Double Crested Cormorant. Then it was on to Potholes State Park stopping at both the boat launch in the park and also the one at the Blythe Public Access just before the park itself. At the latter I had my first Spotted Sandpiper of the year and then had a real treat. No Clark’s Grebe but I got to watch courtship behavior between two Western Grebes. They never got to the point where they would dance/run across the water but the interaction was very fun.

Spotted Sandpiper – FOY

I moved on to the Potholes State Park itself hoping for some warblers in the trees. Passerines were almost totally absent, although I acknowledge that I may not have been as thorough as I should. At the boat launch I found no terns only a couple of California Gulls, numerous Ring Necked Gulls and distant grebes that all seemed to be Western. But there were two more Spotted Sandpipers that took turns with a Least Sandpiper parking on favored rocks.

California Gull
Spotted and Least Sandpipers

At Para/McCain’s ponds, I could not find any Tricolored Blackbirds but there was another surprise Willet – new for Adams County, and I was treated to a show of a hunting Great Egret that stalked quietly for a few moments and then with a lightning strike caught some kind of rodent. There was also a large number of Long Billed Dowitchers – maybe 100.

Willet (Adams County Lifer) with Long Billed Dowitcher and Killdeer
Long Billed Dowitcher

My next stop was at the County Line Ponds back in Grant County. This is a usually reliable place for Black Necked Stilts (there were at least 9), American Avocets (there were at least 2) and Wilson’s Phalaropes – FOY – (earliest and there were 3) and Red Necked Phalaropes (later none). Sometimes, and this was one of those times, you can find an American White Pelican – FOY.

American Avocet
Two of the Three Distant Wilson’s Phalaropes – FOY

My next and last stop in Grant County was at Sentinel Bluffs. I picked up my first Bullock’s Oriole of the year and yet again failed to find a Nashville Warbler, thus ending my Grant County list at a disappointing 187 species. A good if somewhat scary experience occurred when I inadvertently got too close to an unseen Bald Eagle nest. As I was concentrating on shrubs and trees looking for passerines, I heard a Bald Eagle calling not far away and then closer and closer. Both adults were unhappy with my unintended intrusion and continuously circled back and forth overhead getting perhaps as close as forty feet as I retreated when I realized what I had done. Eagles are big birds and look really big when they are that close and looking right at you – and are unhappy!!

Bullock’s Oriole – FOY

The eagles were a good close to my three day birding trip. There had been great experiences (definitely not including the car vs. brush incident), some great birds, some nice new county birds for Okanogan and Ferry County and not enough new County birds for Grant County, The interactions with the hunting Great Egret and the Barrow’s Goldeneyes and Western Grebes as they courted each other and then with the Bald Eagles as they chased me off were special. Finding Willets first at Soap Lake and then at Para’s Ponds were the rarest moments. For the three days I had seen 123 species of which 29 were new for me in Washington for 2025. I had gotten my targeted 200th species for Okanogan County and finally seen some birds in Ferry County. I had visited beautiful places, banged up my car, put on a lot of mileage, eaten some rather unhealthy food, had too little sleep and very much enjoyed myself. Adding species seen on those earlier trips in April would have only brought the total to 140. An interesting aside – at least to me – is that there were 19 species of duck seen on my three day trip.

I am hoping to get back again this month to look for some of the newly arrived migrants and maybe to find some owls. As indicated previously a trip to Colombia is scheduled for late June and there is a possible trip ahead to Brazil in October. My world list for the year so far is 342 species. If all goes well on those two trips and with some more Washington birding maybe 1000 is possible which I hit in 2023 and 2024, but that number really matters not. I hope to add a number of new world lifers and world life photos – and just to enjoy the journey! That’s birding!

Birding in Japan Part 3 – Cranes+ in Kyushu and Finishing in Osaka

We were able to get in a little birding as we drove from the airport to our hotel in Kagoshima, primarily along the Sendai River in Satsuma. In less than an hour I added three lifers: Chestnut Eared Bunting, Siberian Pipit and Long Billed Plover and four life photos: the Bunting and Plover plus Bull Headed Shrike and Meadow Bunting. I would get a photo of the pipit the next day. I was very pleased to get the photos of the Meadow Bunting and Bull Headed Shrike as they were two of the species I had seen in Japan in 1983 before I even had a camera. The Chestnut Eared Bunting has another back story. I only discovered that I had “seen” this species when an Ebird reviewer saw photos I had attached to my Ebird report and told me they were Chestnut Eared Buntings instead of Meadow Buntings per my list. The Chestnut Eared Bunting was not even on my awareness list, but the photos left no doubt – a nice new lifer. One final photo but not new or a lifer was of a Dusky Thrush, a mega-rarity I had seen and photographed in Nanaimo, British Columbia in 2019. Nice to get on its home turf.

Long Billed Plover – Lifer and my 45th Plover/Lapwing Species
Chestnut Eared Bunting – Ebird Reviewer Aided Lifer
Bull Headed Shrike – Life Photo
Meadow Bunting – Life Photo
Dusky Thrush – first observation and photo on its home turf

Adding the Ural Owl and Red Crowned Cranes seen in Hokkaido, I had added 4 lifers and 6 life photos for the day. The next day would be busy starting with a visit to the Izumi Crane Observation Center promising thousands of cranes and maybe enough lifers to get to 3700, a benchmark that I had felt certain was attainable when planning the trip.

Day 5 – Cranes and More in Kyushu

Seeing cranes at the Izumi Crane Observation Center is a humbling and overwhelming experience. We spent the whole morning of February 7th at the Center and in the adjoining nearby fields. A feeding program at the center where grain is brought in for the cranes attracts two species in the thousands and also attracts other species including two crane rarities. The predominant species are the Hooded Crane (estimated to be over 12,000 the day we were there) and the White Naped Crane (several thousand) but two other cranes species – Sandhill Crane – our only regular crane in the U.S. – and the Common Crane – a mega-rarity in the U.S. that I have seen in Washington were also being reported. At the center itself, there are almost too many cranes. Rather than an up close and personal experience it is the overwhelming totality of so many cranes in the fields that is experienced. That up close connection with photo opportunities is easily found driving the many roads of the adjoining fields where many other species can be found as well. The first photo below is the best I can use to show the numbers of cranes at the center, but it is only a very small percentage of those present. I took hundreds of photos of the cranes, many very poor and none “perfect” but I am including a sampling to give the reader a taste of the experience.

A Small Portion of the Cranes at the Center

Hooded Crane Photos

Hooded Crane in Field – Lifer
Hooded Crane in Flight – Wingspan just over 6 Feet
Hooded Crane – Standing – A Little over 3 Feet Tall
Hooded Crane Closeup

White Naped Crane Photos

White Naped Crane Standing – 4 feet 4 inches tall – Lifer
White Naped Crane Flight – Wingspan is up to 6.5 feet
White Naped Crane Feeding in Field
White Naped Crane – Adult Left and Juvenile Right

Sandhill Crane Photos

We only saw 4 Sandhill Cranes and did not locate the single Common Crane that was being seen by some.

Two Sandhill Cranes – 3.5 feet tall and 6+ foot wingspan

Other birds seen near the Crane Center included 9 more lifers and 13 life photos, but unfortunately I did not get photos of two of the lifers: Brown Headed Thrush and Chinese Penduline Tit. The latter was a little rascal in on the reed fields playing “now you see me and now you don’t repeatedly”. I thought one distant photo might have captured it, but the beyond blurry photo that I got cannot erven qualify for ID purposes only. In addition to those two species, the lifers were Swan Goose, Asian Skylark, Reed Bunting, Ochre Rumped Bunting, Common Shelduck, Daurian Jackdaw, and Black Faced Spoonbill. I got a barely acceptable photo of the Ochre Rumped Bunting, another species not on our target list. It stood out from the other buntings seen in the reed beds and was identified as such by Koji. So far the Ebird reviewers have let it stand. I cannot recall which I saw first, but either the Reed Bunting or the Ochre Rumped Bunting was species number 3700 on my life list.

Reed Bunting – Lifer
Possible Ochre-Rumped Bunting – Lifer (if it stands)

Two of my lifers were birds I had seen before but were not countable either as introduced (Eurasian Skylark) or as an escapee (Swan Goose). I had seen the Skylark both in British Columbia where there was at the time a pretty strong population near the Airport and then also almost 50 years ago at American Camp on San Juan Island in Washington where a smaller population was probably immigrants from the B.C. colony and is now completely gone. In any event, both groups were recognized only as introduced. I had seen a domestic/escapee Swan Goose both in Utah and in Washington, was confounded trying to identify it and never expected to see one in the wild. It is found primarily in Eastern and north central China with occasional vagrants in Japan and Korea. The one at the Crane Center was well known and a highly sought after sighting for all birders. We found it fairly quickly in the area it had been seen the past week. It is now gone, a two or three week wonder.

Eurasian Skylark – Lifer – one of many seen
Swan Goose – Lifer
Black Faced Spoonbill – Lifer
Daurian Jackdaw – Lifer – One of Many Among the Hundreds of Rooks
Common Shelduck – Lifer

In addition to the life species, there were some welcomed life photos, including Siberian Pipit which had been seen as a lifer the previous day and was now seen many times in the fields. In those same fields there were several Northern Lapwings, a species I had seen 23 years ago in Hungary but not photographed. This photo was my 14th of a Lapwing – now missing 4 photos from the 18 seen – two from Australia from days before I took photos and might someday get with a return visit and one from South Africa and another from India – misses I am unlikely to ever get.

Siberian Pipit – Life Photo
Northern Lapwing – Life Photo

There are both European and Cheeked Starlings in Japan. We saw several individual and one large flock of the European Starlings which are “junk” introduced species and a pest in the U.S.. More commonplace were the White Cheeked Starlings which were seen frequently and which I had first seen outside of Hong Kong in 1979 but not since. Another species I had seen previously in Hungary but not photographed was the Rook, seen here in the hundreds.

White Cheeked Starling – Life Photo
Rook in Falling Snow – Life Photo

The last lifer photo of the morning was of an Asian House Martin, a species I had seen in Japan in 1983 again when I was not taking pictures. Not a great photo of a hard to catch in flight single bird.

Asian House Martin – Life Photo

After the full morning at the Crane Observatory and surrounding area we had a quick lunch and dropped Cindy off back at the hotel and Koji and I headed off to the Kogawa Dam and surrounding area in Izumi looking for forest birds or birds in the lake formed by the dam. We were extremely pleased to quickly find a small flock of White-bellied Green Pigeons. Unfortunately Koji was not able to stop the vehicle before they took off so no picture of this lifer. We got another chance later as I spied a single distant bird perched mostly in the open – sufficient for a photo. It was the more drably colored female, but a very welcomed addition to my world photo list.

White Bellied Green Pigeon – Lifer

In the lake we found a huge flock of more than 150 Baikal Teal. They were too distant for a decent photo, but were quite a spectacle. Closer and more cooperative was a mixed group of 11 Common Pochards, a life photo of a species I had first seen in Hungary and then again in India but not photographed, with both males and females in view here.

Male and Female Common Pochards – Life Photo

There were two other lifers on our circuit around the lake – a single Copper Pheasant that shot off the road as we rounded a corner – no photo – and a Gray Bunting, a very frustrating species that we saw flit by us more than once – again no photo. I did get a life photo of a Daurian Redstart – a female which pales, literally, compared to the male, a photo of which I got later. It was then back to the hotel.

Daurian Redstart Female – Life Photo

February 8 – A Coastal Stop and then the Bulllet train to Osaka

Today we would be catching the Shinkansen, the Bullet Train to Osaka but that would follow a morning birding at the Kuma River Estuary and Osozo Ryokuchi Park targeting Saunder’s Gull and Kentish Plover – two lifers – and possibly other shorebirds. I have never seen such a convoluted route as was needed to get to the breakwater adjoining the tidelands. The tide was lower than hoped for, so the birds were not close, but we were successful in finding both targeted species, two lifers for me. The Saunder’s Gull reminded me of our Bonaparte’s Gull, small, black-headed in breeding plumage and with a black spot behind the eye in nonbreeding plumage. It has a graceful, tern-like flight and we often saw it chasing Dunlin which were plentiful on the beach. I was very happy to get the gull because it has a very restricted range, and this was likely my only opportunity to see one. I was equally happy to get a photo of one of the Kentish Plovers scurrying around on the beach. It has a large range, but I had missed one in Indonesia and was really pleased to be able to add it to my growing list of plovers, having previously added the Long Billed Plover to that list.

Saunder’s Gull – Lifer
Saunder’s Gull on Sand
Kentish Plover – Lifer

We saw another species that I thought was a lifer – the Vega Gull. It has recently been split off from Herring Gull as its own separate species. It is generally found in East Asia, but in its updating process after the latest taxonomic changes, Ebird changed my report of Herring Gull from Nome Alaska to this species. So not a lifer – just a life photo.

Vega Gull – Life Photo

It would be a 3 hour and 45 minute ride on the Shinkansen – aka the Bullet Train – from Kagoshima to Osaka. Very comfortable and fast – for a train – and departing and arriving exactly on time, riding on this famous train was part of our cultural exposure to Japan. It was an easy walk to the hotel near the train station in Osaka. There would be one more day of birding in the Osaka area on February 9th and the next day we would say goodbye to Koji and head off to Kyoto on our own for four days of sightseeing without birds.

February 9 – Saying Goodbye to Koji and the Birds

Now in Osaka, our priority was to find a Baer’s Pochard that had been seen frequently but not every day in a small pond which would be our first stop for the day. Again Koji felt the odds would be maybe 50/50. It was a classic chase moment. As we drove up to a very nondescript little pond, a Japanese birder was there with binoculars and his camera looking out on the pond. The first rule when going after a rare bird is “go now” – meaning as soon as you learn of it because there is no guarantee it will stay. Rule 2 is if you miss the bird because you didn’t follow Rule 1, you can’t whine about it, because you knew and ignored Rule 1. A corollary of Rule 1 is that once you get to the target area, first look for another birder hopefully already on the rarity or if not, then probably with useful knowledge that might lead to its discovery. As soon as we pulled up and saw the birder already there, we were pretty sure we were good. It took all of one second to find the rare bird after we got out of the vehicle.

Baer’s Pochard – Lifer

Ebird says the Baer’s Pochard is an “extremely rare” diving bird. Koji had told me one had been seen in Japan before I left home and I hoped it would stick around. Apparently it has been coming to this same pond for at least 5 winters in a row. Found mainly in Eastern and Southeast Asia, it would not have been even on my maybe list if this one was not in Japan. Other species at the pond included Common Pochard, Tufted Duck, Eastern Spot Billed Duck and a Great Egret and some close up White Cheeked Starlings.

Common Pochard Close
White Cheeked Starling Close
Great Egret – I Was Surprised they Were Not Seen Very Often

Our main task accomplished we would visit two local parks looking for a few more birds to end our tour on a positive note. At Kirakata-Yamadaike Park, our major add for the trip was a lifer Masked Bunting. It played hard to find for awhile but finally several came into the open. The park had a large pond/lake. The views were distant and would have been a disappointment if we had not had the great views at Odawara Castle, but there were many Smews to be seen – at least 16. On the other hand, it was here that we had our best look at Falcated Duck as both males and females made an appearance.

Masked Bunting Lifer
Yes A Male Smew – But Thankfully We Had the Earlier One
Falcated and Tufted Ducks

Not a lifer, so I cannot say it was the best bird at the park, but the killer view and photo of a male adult Daurian Redstart was a definite highlight – really a beautiful bird.

Daurian Redstart – My Best Photo

Again not lifers nor life photos, but a fun group of birds seen at the park were three Wagtails, Japanese, White and Gray.

As we were leaving the park I noted some movement in the brush on a side of the trail. Just a peekaboo view at first but then flashes in the open of some of the prettiest little birds anywhere. Red Billed Leiothorix is an introduced species in Japan just as it is in Hawaii where I also saw one in 2019 almost exactly 6 years earlier. I had also seen one, native and not introduced, but without a photo in Corbett National Park in India in 2011. They are quite simply incredibly cute.

Red Billed Leiothorix

Our last stop was at Takarazuka-Yamatayamate Park. There were three possible new birds – two lifers and the third a life photo for me and all low probability. The park was very pleasant and filled with birders or bird photographers. We asked each one whether they had seen our targets, White’s Thrush, Japanese Green Woodpecker and Yellow Breasted Bunting. The White’s Thrush had been seen but not within the last half hour. The Woodpecker had been seen briefly by a single birder at the other end of the park and the Bunting had not been seen. We had no success on the Woodpecker or the Bunting and spent almost all of our time there thoroughly covering the area where the thrush had been seen. Finally it was time to go and as sometimes happens, it was then that the White’s Thrush made an appearance, flying like a rocket right past and within 20 feet of us before disappearing over a hill into thick trees. Maybe it would have returned if we stayed but I was happy with the clear if brief view that we got even while disappointed that there was no photo. On the way back to the car we had a nice final photo op – another Red Flanked Bluetail, either a female or immature, but radiant in the sun and a good way to close the day and the trip.

Red Flanked Bluetail

It was then back to the hotel near the Osaka train station. A last dinner and Koji would be leaving early the next day to join another tour group he would lead. We would brave the Japanese rail system to get to Kyoto vis the Shinkansen with the biggest worry being navigating the huge station with three suitcases and two packs on our back. It all worked out and a final post will be about the rest of our Japan visit, the part without birds, but with the splendor of Kyoto.

Unfortunately Cindy had picked up some flu or cold and was not 100% but she had never let that get in the way and it had been a great trip. Koji came through like a champ, handling every detail excellently and finding all of the most important birds, missing only a couple and turning up some surprises as well. The final species count for 7 days was 113 species. This included 38 lifers (4 of which I had seen elsewhere but were introduced species in those locations) – and I got photos of 97 species of which 54 were life photos (including three of the aforementioned introduced species – now legitimate).

At the end of group tours, the tour leader often asks for a top bird or a top 5. The top bird here of course is easy – my Bucket List Smew. But it would be unfair to only pick 4 more top species. It would be unfair to at least Baikal Teal, Mandarin Duck, Hooded Crane, Red Crowned Crane, White Naped Crane, Blakiston’s Fish Owl, Ural Owl, Steller’s Sea Eagle, White Tailed Eagle and Swan Goose. So with those additional ten, and without ranking them, I will call that group my top ten, since there is no way I would put anything on the same pedestal as the Smew and also recognizing that there were lots of less charismatic species that were fabulous as well.

Birding in Japan Part 2 – Hokkaido

Even without the Smew, yesterday had been a great day, but of course it was the Smew that made it one of my very best birding days ever. Our bodies were still adjusting to the jet lag and time differences, but we were doing fine – ready for more – with the plan being to fly to Hokkaido for several days birding there looking for some very special species

Day 2 – Birding in Hokkaido – Maybe

As Koji planned it, we would have flown from Haneda Airport to Kushiro Airport on Hokkaido on a 7:50 AM flight arriving in Kushiro at 9:30 AM. We would then rent a car and drive to spots to see Red Crowned Cranes, and a Ural Owl, look for eagles on the coast and also look for some seabirds including the Stejneger’s Scoter which would be a lifer. We would stay that night and the next at the Yuyado Daiichi Onsen where we would have a good chance of seeing the Blakiston’s Fish Owl. Unfortunately that plan did not take into account that there would be record snowfall (up to 36 inches) that night canceling all flights to Kushiro and closing all roads to travel in the area. Among the many reasons that I bird with local guides rather than striking out on my own is that they are really good at coming up with a Plan B when necessary. It was necessary and Koji came up with a Plan B that would effectively mean that we would lose a day but would also get us to Hokkaido to be in a position to touch all intended bases when (if?) conditions improved. So we took a later flight into the Memanbetsu Airport and rented a car which would take us to alternative lodging as we learned that the road was still closed to the Yuyado Daiichi Inn. It still meant hours driving on snowy roads, but hopefully the next morning the roads would open and we could get to Rausu for one of the big treats of the trip, a boat trip to see the magnificent Steller’s Sea Eagles.

Day 3 – Birding in Hokkaido – For Real

On short notice Koji had been able to find lodging. It was the least appealing of the places we stayed on the trip but was safe, convenient and comfortable. And fortunately the roads became passable the next morning for our 90+ minute drive (with not too many white-knuckle patches) to the port of Rausu and in beautiful weather we were able to take the boat trip. The departure time for the boat was pushed back an hour to allow more people to get there over the snowy roads. This gave us time to do a little pre-boat birding including seeing our first (and lifer) White Tailed and Steller’s Sea Eagles which were flying overhead and perching on trees on the nearby hillside. Not knowing what would follow, I took pictures, distant and low quality but good enough to ID the species if no others were seen. I needn’t have worried. There was a small stream flowing into the bay and species there included Tufted Ducks, Red Breasted Mergansers and Whooper Swans. I had seen the latter on two occasions in home state Washington where one appeared as a mega-rarity bringing in birders from all across the ABA area in the winters of 2022, 2023 and 2024. This was the first time seeing them on their home turf. Also seen were both Carrion and Large Billed Crows and several gull species although predominantly Slaty Backed Gulls, another rarity I had seen in Washington. One lifer gull was a Common Gull, recently split from Mew Gull. The split left us in Washington with Short Billed Gull and now I had both parts of the split.

Whooper Swan – on Its Home Turf
Carrion Crow – Life Photo
Slaty Backed Gull
Common Gull – Lifer – Note the thin all yellow bill
Glaucous Gull – rare but seen annually in Washington
Glaucous Winged Gull – Larger Gull behind smaller Slaty Backed Gull – Common Gull in Washington but often hybridized with Western Gull
Red Breasted Merganser Male – Common in Washington

So much for the preliminaries. It was now time for the real show as we boarded the boat in the Rausu Harbor for our Eagle Watching Cruise. No other noticeable birders but many Japanese tourists. We were told that the cruise would be shortened by 30 minutes. I didn’t know if that was due to the late start, the not quite full boat or sea conditions, but not being familiar with the operation, early on I was concerned as our views of the eagles were pretty distant or of an occasional flyby. Many eagles had stationed themselves on a snow covered breakwater and in the outgoing part of the trip the boat did not get close and I was disappointed. Patience please. On the return journey the boat returned on the inside of the breakwater and it was “SHOWTIME” – time for chumming. Crew on the boat throw whole fish to the eagles, in the water and on the breakwater and it is a fish feast for them and a photo feast for tourists on the boat – aided today by perfect light and blue skies. It was now obvious. There are many eagles in the area, but the numbers, hundreds, we saw seemed disproportionate to the area, but a symbiotic relationship has developed. The eagles have learned that the boats will be providing easy food and they arrive early en masse to take advantage. In turn the tourists benefit from the number and proximity of eagles. Win/win. Many Slaty Backed Gulls and Large Billed Crows come for the party as well.

There are two eagle species that come to Rausu: the White Tailed Eagle with a light brown body and white tail and about the same size as our American Bald Eagle; and the much larger and showier Steller’s Sea Eagle which along with the Harpy Eagle of South America and the Philippine Eagle is the largest eagle in the world. It can weigh up to 20 pounds with a wingspan of up to 8 feet and a height of almost 3 feet. It’s talons are described as ” like those of a grizzly bear”. With beautiful black and white plumage and a huge orange beak to go with those huge orange talons, it is a very impressive animal. Its range is essentially Japan, Korea and Russia with some records in Alaska and over the past few years in the northeastern U.S. and Canada as a single individual was seen by many. It was an awesome show, one of my favorite birding experiences.

Lifer Steller’s Sea Eagle with Russian Mountain in the Background
White Tailed Sea Eagle – Lifer
Steller’s Sea Eagle – Flight
White Tailed Eagle Flight

More Eagle Photos

With so much action and so many photo ops it was not possible to keep an accurate count of the number of eagles we saw. Our conservative number for the Ebird report was 150 Steller’s Sea Eagles and 100 White Tailed Eagles but there were probably many more than that. Anyone not getting a great photo, even with a Smartphone, had only themselves to blame. We also saw many Harlequin Ducks, some Common Goldeneyes and some Pelagic Cormorants. Unfortunately no scoters or alcids.

Harlequin Ducks
Common Goldeneye

Koji’s Plan B had worked well. We had 15 species at Rausu (with good photos of all). There were the three lifers (both eagles and the Common Gull) and another life photo – Carrion Crow. We would spend the rest of the afternoon stopping at various places along the coast looking for alcids and the much desired Stejneger’s Scoter and would then make it to our hotel, Yuyado Daiichi and the Youroushi Hot Springs in time to watch the feeders for awhile and hopefully have an owl visitor.

Koji noted that there seemed to be far fewer birds in the water than expected and we were generally unsuccessful finding any targets. We added a Black Scoter, some Greater Scaup and some Great Crested Grebes and that was it. We did see our first wild mammals of the trip – Red Fox and Sika Deer. There were two foxes and the deer were plentiful. Both gave us good photo ops in the barren landscape.

Black Scoter – Unfortunately Not a Stejneger’s
Greater Scaup
Great Crested Grebe
Red Fox – Our First Mammal
Sika Deer – Two of the More than a Hundred Seen

We got to our lodging around 3:30 PM. It was our favorite place on the tour so far and remained as such until we got to Kyoto. Beautiful room looking out onto the creek flowing by. There were hot springs there and Cindy braved a visit to this very Japanese bathing place – picking up some cultural guidance along the way. I passed on the opportunity and elected to sit in the lobby watching two feeders along the creek that attracted both birds and birders. Light was already beginning to fade, but the birds were still active and I added lifer Marsh Tit and Eurasian Bullfinch and got a lifer photo of a Great Spotted Woodpecker. The only other one I had seen was almost 23 years ago during a few hours of birding in Hungary! I also got decent photos of Asian Tit, Eurasian Nuthatch and another Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker. I saw a Coal Tit (my first one in 42 years) and thought I had a lifer photo but cannot find it.

Marsh Tit – Lifer
Eurasian Bullfinch – Lifer that came in for a few seconds and seen only by me
Great Spotted Woodpecker – Life Photo
Eurasian Nuthatch
Asian Tit

Dinner at the hotel was a mix of traditional Japanese food. This is one area where Cindy and I differ. There are definitely Japanese dishes that I do not particularly like, like most pickles, but I am fairly adventurous and enjoy most Japanese food. Cindy is less adventurous and this was not her favorite meal but as I will discuss much later in the part of this blog covering our stay in Kyoto, this was an important lesson learned. But there would be something far more important this evening. The Inn is famous as probably the best place in Japan (the world?) to see a Blakiston’s Fish Owl. It is the largest species of owl and one of the rarest, found only in China, Japan, and the Russian Far East with an estimated world population of between 1000 and 1500 individuals. There is a small pond/bathing area at the Inn where the owl regularly comes to visit to get an easy meal of trout that are stocked in the pond by the Inn, thus creating a rare opportunity to see the owl – available only to guests of the Inn, a good business promotion. There is a chart at the Inn telling when the owl has recently visited. It generally makes two stops – once around 10:00 PM and then again around 2:00 or 3:00 AM. It is such an important part of life at the Inn that you can arrange for the front desk to call you when it appears.

Even though it was before the regular visiting hours, several birders were camped out at seats with a view of the log near the pond where the owl usually sat. After dinner Cindy and I joined them, both with fingers crossed and also just to socialize. Not more than 15 minutes later, the magnificent owl made an appearance. Photos were through glass and affected by the artificial light but who cares, the opportunities were awesome as the owl stayed longer than usual and caught two fish in front of us. Apparently it usually only takes one, so the suspicion was that eggs had already been laid and this owl was fishing for two. Of all the hoped for lifers on the trip, this was the one that seemed the least likely – maybe a 50/50 chance it would show at the pond and then the question of being there for what might be a short visit. It could not have been better this night.

Blakiston’s Fish Owl – The Lifer’s first appearance
Blakiston’s Fish Owl – Perhaps Viewing Its Appreciative Audience
Blakiston’s Fish Owl with its First Fish
Blakiston’s Fish Owl with Second Fish

Nothing was going to beat a day with my bucket list Smew followed by a Baikal Teal, but this day with Steller’s Sea Eagle and Blakiston’s Fish Owl was a very close second. I slept well that night – despite the adrenalin rush.

Day 4 – Hokkaido in the Morning

Having lost a day due to the heavy snow, the pressure was on for a make-up morning. There were two important objectives – Ural Owl and Red Crowned Cranes. Koji’s plan had us first driving to a stakeout spot to hopefully see a Ural Owl on its favorite roost and then we would head to the Ito-Tsurui Red Crowned Crane Sanctuary to see the beautiful Red Crowned Cranes, an iconic species often seen in Japanese art and very much on the top of Cindy’s want list. Then we would get to the Kushiro Airport for our long flight to Kagoshima on Kyushu Island in southern Japan. We had a fairly tight schedule – enough time to hit both target places but no time to linger. When we got to the Ural Owl spot, there was fortunately a trail of sorts heading downhill through deep snow. We had followed Koji’s suggestion to get cleats for our boots to better handle ice and snow, and this was when we needed them and they were great. The trail down to the viewing spot was no more than a quarter mile. At the end there was a small flat area where we could look across a ravine to a tree with a large hollow – the place the owl liked to roost. Sure enough, we could see the owl almost completely in the open as soon as we arrived. It was not real close and the light was not perfect, but it was a beautiful sight. It is found from Japan through the norther coniferous and mixed forests all the way to Scandinavia. Like many owls, Ebird treats it as a “sensitive” species, hiding locations, but it is not greatly endangered. On our way out several birders were coming down the trail as we returned to the car.

Ural Owl – Lifer

Our last Hokkaido stop was both wonderful and disappointing. It was wonderful because we were able to spend 20 minutes watching the majestic Red Crowned Cranes. Only a few were there when we arrived joining a small crowd of observers. Then 4 more flew in and they were later joined by 4 more. The disappointment was only that we could not spend more time with them. Under the original plan we would have visited the crane sanctuary and possibly other crane gathering spots in the afternoon and there would have been many more of them, with closer views and possibly with them more active. Sorry for what we may have missed. we were thankful for any chance to see these graceful birds – both adults and juveniles. Snow covered the ground both fitting for the wintering mostly white cranes but also challenging for photographs. We saw only a few moments of interaction, none of the elaborate courtship displays that we hoped for in a romanticized world, but there was no denying their appeal, their beauty, their elegance.

Red Crowned Crane – Lifer
Adult REd Crowned Crane
At first there were 3 cranes, then four more flew in.
Juvenile Red Crowned Crane on Left and Adult on Right
As close as we got to Red Crowned Cranes “Dancing”

More cranes were arriving as we had to leave. Maybe if we had another hour we would have gotten better shots. It was sad to leave them, but we had a flight to catch and there would be more cranes in Kyushu after a long flight of almost 4 hours including a stop back at Haneda Airport. The actual air distance is about 1070 miles not much different than the air miles between Seattle and Los Angeles.

Kushiro Airport, Hokkaido to Kagoshima Airport, Kyushu

Next up…Kyushu…

My Bucket List Takes Us to Japan – Part I

It has been almost 30 years since I was last in Japan and over 40 years since I last birded there. That birding was a one day happening during a longer vacation visit in July of 1983 with my former wife, Mary, that resulted in a Japan life list of 30 species and far more importantly the creation of one of the most important people in my life, my daughter, Miya who was born in April 1984 – do the math. At that time and on the later visit ten plus years later, building a birding life list was just not on my mind. I had done a fair amount of birding prior to that including some international birding in Jamaica, Trinidad and Hong Kong and had been to some ABA hotspots in Arizona, Texas and Florida and had a respectable life list of 750 species. Adding 30 species in Japan was great, but honestly at that time, pre-dating Ebird, I really had no idea of what my numbers were and whether a new bird was a “lifer” or not. And, oh yeah, that was before the age of digital cameras and my life photo list was – ZERO.

Asa Wright Nature Center – Trinidad – my first international birding – 1978

Fast forward to 2025. That daughter is fully grown, a professor at Harvard Medical School, practicing as a Pediatric Neurologist at Children’s Hospital in Boston with a great husband and two great kids of her own, and I know it can’t be impossible but is now 40 years old. Yikes. Sadly Mary and I have gone our separate ways but happily six years ago Cindy Bailey came into my life, we got married and have been very fortunate to have traveled the world often centered around my birding trips and while she is not a “birder”, she has learned much about birds and birding and if she kept track, which so far she does not, she would have a life list larger than the one I had before Japan. I have definitely acquired a camera and definitely keep and care about a life list and a life photo list, and after this trip the former is now over 3700 species and the latter over 2400 species. Cindy has acquired a camera, too, and that has definitely raised her interest in birds – at least the charismatic ones as opposed to those LBJ’s – little brown jobs.

2024 was an especially fortunate and productive year for travel with visits to Chile, Argentina, Ecuador (including the Galapagos Islands) and Uganda. Those were all bird rich countries and my bird list for 2024 was over 1400 species, by far the most I have seen in any one year. Despite having been to Argentina and Ecuador before and having birded extensively in Tanzania and Kenya with much overlap with Uganda, I still added 400 species to that now important life list. Yes my daughter is really 40 and in a few years, I will be twice that, so who knows how many birding adventures lie ahead. While I would love to get to 5,000 species, I think that is unlikely so I have lowered my aim to 4,000 hoping in addition to significantly raising the number of species photographed to get to 3,000. I am pretty sure the first goal will be reached and since I did not take any photos in the early years, while repeat trips to bird rich places like Costa Rica and Australia may not add all that many “lifers” seen, the opportunity to add new photos is pretty good and both of those places are on our “want to visit list”. No guarantee and it won’t be easy, but I think 3,000 is doable.

So now you know some goals and aspirations that have been in place for a while and will guide travel planning for the future. How does/did Japan fit into that picture? Especially given the overlap with birds seen previously in Japan and Hong Kong and elsewhere in Australasia, from a numbers perspective Japan is not a target rich environment. When first thinking of the trip I thought that 50 new lifers were possible but something closer to 30 was far more likely – small potatoes compared to possible trips to Southeast Asia, Colombia, Brazil, India, or China, which could each add 100 to 200 species to those now important to me life lists. Forgetting the birds for a minute, Japan is a fascinating place with a unique culture and history. I have been fortunate to have been there to see the cherry blossoms and the fall foliage – well worth a visit. And Cindy had never been to Japan, or anywhere else in Asia, so that was appealing. But visiting Japan when the cherry blossoms are out, or the foliage is in full color means gigantic crowds and peak season expenses and high temperatures and high humidity – not very appealing. How about in the winter? There would be smaller crowds; lodging would be available and less expensive. OK, it might be much colder, but there would be no humidity or temperatures in the 90’s. Those factors went into the plus column. And there was more thing – a small black and white duck that had been at the top of my birding list for many years – a species that breeds in the far north, is almost never seen in the U.S. outside of remote Alaskan islands, and with good planning is a certainty in Japan – but only in winter.

On our first date I learned about Cindy’s passion for dogs – especially Black Labs, like our dog Chica; and she learned about my passion for birding. At that time, I knew nothing about dogs and she knew nothing about birding. Also at that time, I told her that if I ever got word that a certain little duck was reported anywhere in the U.S. outside of Alaska, I would immediately drop whatever I was doing, go pack, grab my gear, book the next available flight, and go chase it – but only if it was a male!!! That bucket list bird was a Smew, a small merganser duck. The female is quite non-descript with some rust or chestnut on its head with some feathers sticking up in front of its eyes but otherwise a pretty drab little girl.

Female Smew

The male features only two colors – black and white – and a crest, and yet somehow, evolution had combined those two colors and that crest to perfection. A male Smew is striking, gorgeous without being ostentatious, perfectly patterned and for whatever reason it had become my dream bird. I showed her a picture and she sort of understood my interest and at least acknowledged that it was a pretty good looking bird. I should add that later I would show her Harlequin Ducks, Hooded Mergansers, and Wood Ducks, and if she were being honest, the Smew would likely rank lower than all of them. Yeah, those ducks are spectacular, in a showy kind of way, and maybe if I lived elsewhere and had never seen them, one of them might top the bucket list, but those birds can be found easily, and a Smew is definitely not easy. There have been only 2 or 3 sightings of a male Smew in the U.S. outside of Alaska in the last 34 years. The only photos are from a male seen along the Columbia River in Oregon and Washington in 1991. I was in quiet mode for birding at that time fully concentrating on work and young kids, and I did not even hear of its existence. If I had, without there even being a bucket list, I would have traveled to see it.

For me, the Smew would have been enough, but it helped to sell the idea to Cindy that there were some other great birds to be seen in Japan – only in the winter – several species of cranes, two very cool owls, two very impressive eagles and some other ducks that, although not nearly as cool as a male Smew (at least to me) were pretty awesome – Baikal Teal, Mandarin Duck and Falcated Duck to name just a few. There would be no cherry blossoms or fall foliage, but even in winter the many cultural sights of Japan, the temples, the castles, the gates and gardens, the Bullet Train, the Ryokans and Onsens, the geishas and maikos of the Gion district and even the awesome department store – Takashimaya – were well worth experiencing. Cindy was sold. We would be going to Japan. Now how to do it.

I have gone on birding tours with many of the large bird tour companies. They offer birding trips to Japan in winter, but Cindy and I agreed that we did not want this to be 2 or 3 weeks of just birding. We had hired independent guides before and agreed this was the way to go. One of the lead guides for Wings Birding Tours is Susan Myers who leads their Japan trip as well as many other tours in Asia and Australia (her native land). I had met Susan many years ago in Seattle when she was living there and thought she would be the perfect private guide scheduling a trip after her Wings tour. But she had other engagements and suggested her local Japanese co-leader, Koji Tagi. It turned out to be the perfect solution as he was available and put together a great itinerary that would include 7 days of birding on three of Japan’s main islands, Kyushu in the south, Hokkaido in the north and Honshu in the middle. We would then have 3 or 4 days for sightseeing on our own in Kyoto. Most importantly, Koji-san almost guaranteed we would see the Smew. Airline tickets were bought, details were filled out, and our lodging in Kyoto was committed. Koji would meet us at Haneda Airport near Tokyo on February 2 with us flying there nonstop leaving on Delta Airlines on February 1st at 11:30 AM It was only a 10 hour flight but since we were crossing the International Dateline, we would lose a calendar day arriving at 3:30 PM too late for anything but meeting Koji (fortunately he was there as promised), checking into our first Hotel – very nice within the Airport itself, and getting some dinner. Birding would start on January 3rd.

Our First Hotel at the Haneda Airport – 2 nights

February 3, 2025 – A Good Day for Ducks

There have been times on my previous birding trips with tour companies or private guides when movement from one part of a country to another involved air travel, short domestic flights. Otherwise all travel was on the road by car with the guide/driver or depending on the size of the group, by van or safari vehicle. This trip was going to be different, utilizing two domestic flights, and with some private car travel (rental cars) but otherwise using Japan’s well developed rail system. Our first foray exposed that to us immediately as we would be traveling by rail from Haneda Airport to Odawara, a “town” of almost 190,000 people on Sugami Bay, southeast of Tokyo. We had chosen a flight into Haneda airport instead of Narita airport (the other large airport serving Tokyo) to be closer to Odawara and the Yokohama area where we would bird later, but it was still more than an hour to get to Odawara by train. I had impressed on Koji early and often that unless we had a decent look at a male Smew, the trip would be a failure. He did excellent work tracking sightings of the species in Japan before our arrival and had changed our itinerary to begin at the Odawara Castle accordingly because a pair of Smew had been seen there regularly, and if there, should be pretty close for a photo op. There is never a guaranty that any bird will be at any particular place at any time, but they are often creatures of habit, and our odds were good – better than 50/50.

There are many restored castles in Japan, drawing many tourists especially at Cherry Blossom time. If this had been a sightseeing trip only, it is unlikely that the Odawara Castle would be the castle we would have chosen to visit, but since it was our top Smew viewing spot, it was a great place to go with a view of the castle as a bonus. It was a short walk from the train station and the weather was good – no rain, no snow, no wind and in the mid thirties (note although temperatures in Japan are given in degrees Celsius, any references I make will be converted to Fahrenheit.) Now we just needed a cooperative Smew.

Odawara Castle

As is typical with Japanese castles, there was a moat surrounding the castle, with a walkway crossing the moat to gain entrance to the castle itself. As we approached the castle I could see a white object moving in the moat/pond. Was it going to be that easy? Not quite. The first species I saw was a Black Headed Gull, almost all white in its nonbreeding winter plumage. Common in Japan and elsewhere in Eurasia and Africa, it is a rarity in the U.S. including in my home state of Washington, where I seen it twice, once discovered first by me in 2016. Then I saw some ducks: a Mallard (seemingly nearly as common in Japan as in Washington), a Eurasian Wigeon (common in Eurasia and a regular “rarity” among the American Wigeon flocks in my home state) and some Tufted Ducks (again commonplace in Eurasia and a rarity found annually in Washington). I was still at the corner of the moat, and while happy with ducks being there, as generally happens during a “chase” unless the bird is seen immediately, the thought of missing it was already forming in my “lister’s brain”. The thought passed quickly as two small ducks swam out from near the walkway into the center of the moat/pond. There it was, my bucket list male Smew, along with his better looking than expected mate. A sigh of relief, a shot of adrenalin, a big smile and immediate movement by me towards the walkway to get a better view and some photos. YES!!!!!!!!!!!!

First Look at the Male Smew with its Head Tucked

Koji and Cindy caught up to me, and we all watched as the pair of Smews swam about in the pond, but solely with their heads tucked back into their feathers, pretty close but not the dreamed of killer profile shot with crest exposed that I had thought about for years. This continued for 10+ minutes with brief seconds when the male would lift his head and then immediately put it back down. It was great but not great enough and I figured it had to get more energetic and lift its head, and I was not going to leave until it did. There were some fun photos ops but I wanted “the one”.

Male Smew – a Fun Different Angle

Then finally the two Smew woke up and turned to give the look I wanted and I was ready. These were the full-on photos I wanted, first of just the male then of the female and then of the pair. I was a happy birder.

The “SHOT– Male Smew
Female Smew – Better Looking than Expected
Male and Female Smews Together

There was more ahead on this day and another 7 days of birding plus the sightseeing in Kyoto, but now all the pressure was off (for me and Koji) and if the trip had ended then, it still would have been a success – I had my Smew and now for the gravy, the whipped cream or whatever additional pleasures were ahead. I have included more photos of a single bird on a trip than usual because it was that special for me. There will be many more special albeit less special birds ahead, and with a few exceptions, only single photos will be included. Here are photos of the other species seen at Odawara Castle including lifer photos of Asian Tit, Japanese Wagtail and Blue Rock Thrush taken as we were leaving.

Asian Tit – Life Photo

Blue Rock Thrush – Life Photo

It was not yet 10:00 AM. I had my Bucket List Smew and an additional three life photos. What next? Next was the second most wanted duck on this tour, a lifer Baikal Teal. Koji’s itinerary would take us to Zama Yatoyama Park. I do not have notes or a specific memory but believe this meant another short railway ride. It would be a good visit as we spent an hour at the park walking through some sparse forest and visited the pond where the teal was expected. We had 15 species at the park including that lifer Baikal Teal and 3 more lifers: Pale Thrush, Ryuku Minivet and Japanese Grosbeak plus life photos of Long Tailed and Varied Tits, Large Billed Crow, Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker and Brown Eared Bulbul. Unfortunately the Grosbeak was “heard only”, the only species in that category for the trip. But I had photos of all the others. But first more on that Baikal Teal.

The Baikal Teal is definitely a striking bird with a very unusual facial pattern. It is seen primarily in northeastern Asia with a very few records in the U.S. including a couple in Washington, again during my quiet period for birding. We found it in the pond where it was regularly seen within the park, probably 5 individuals including two males, but three of them were at the distant end of the pond, visible but terrible photo ops. The other two, a male and a female were on an island not too far out in the pond, surrounded by Mallards. The female remained almost entirely hidden in weeds and the male was in the open but rarely lifted its head to reveal the facial markings that set the species apart. The photo was only okay, but is treasured nonetheless as it was definitely in the top ten targets list for the trip.

Baikal Teal – What a Face!

We would see many Pale Thrush during our trip, but one in the open briefly at the park was our best look at this lifer that Koji said is generally pretty shy. A surprising find, discovered by me only as I looked at a photo that I could not identify, was a Ryuku Minivet. Found almost exclusively in Japan and Eastern China, I had not been aware of its existence so it was not on the target list and was a very welcomed and completely unexpected addition to my life list.

Pale Thrush – Lifer
Ryuku Minivet – Surprise Lifer

I had life photos of Brown Eared Bulbul, Varied and Long Tailed Tit, Large Billed Crow and Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker. All were photographed again later as they were seen more than once, and in the case of the Crow and Bulbul many, many, many times. But you can’t have a second one until there is a first one, so they were welcomed additions to my photo life list.

Brown Eared Bulbul – Life Photo of a Species Seen Everywhere
Large Billed Crow – Life Photo of Another Species Seen Almost Everywhere and Looking and Behaving Like our Northern Raven
Long Tailed Tit – Life Photo
Varied Tit – Life Photo
Japanese Pygmy Woodpecker – Life Photo

I am including two more photos from the park – Eurasian Turtle Dove and Warbling White Eye. I have seen each many times and have photos of both, but the photo of the White-eye is better than others and the photo of the dove could turn out to be a life photo as the only other photo is of a Eurasian Turtle Dove seen and photographed by me in British Columbia last year which just might turn out to be of a released or escaped bird rather than a wild one. Both species are common and were seen often during this Japan trip.

Oriental Turtle Dove
Warbling White-eye

There would be two more stops this day. The first was at the Sagamihara Reservoir, where the main target was a Mandarin Duck. A ridiculously gorgeous bird maybe competing with our American Wood Duck for the most beautiful duck prize, as the name suggests, it is typically found in East Asia, including in good numbers in Japan. I had seen and photographed one in Washington in 2021 and again in 2022 in Lake Washington, almost certainly an escapee from a collection. So these (there were at least 40) were my first birds seen in the wild. Unfortunately an iron fence prevented us from getting real close but even with that constraint and less than ideal light, the ducks are so spectacular that we got good photos. There were two other important species at the reservoir, a lifer Eastern Spot Billed Duck and a Falcated Duck, another striking species. I had seen and photographed a wild Falcated Duck in Washington in 2017, a mega-rarity that was in a flock of hundreds, maybe thousands of American Wigeon. The Eastern Spot-billed Duck was recently split off as a separate species from Indian Spot Billed Duck which I had seen in India in 2011.

Male and Female Mandarin Ducks – First Wild Ones Seen
Eastern Spot-billed Duck – Lifer
Falcated Duck – Second Ever, First In Japan

Two other duck species were seen at the reservoir: Green Winged Teal (Eurasian subspecies) and Gadwall. The Eurasian subspecies of the teal is seen rarely but regularly in the U.S. and Washington and the Gadwall is abundant in Washington. The last photo is of a Great Cormorant – common in Eurasia and Africa and in the Northeastern U.S. I keep expecting one to show up in Washington but as far as I know, it has never happened.

Gadwall
Eurasian Green Winged Teal
Great Cormorant

Our last stop was at the Yokohama Children’s Park where the main target was a bird that is common in Washington but the one wintering there was a big rarity in Japan – a Ring Necked Duck. It was easily found and photographed but of far more interest to me were a lifer Brown Cheeked Rail expertly found by Koji and fortunately seen and photographed by me, a Chinese Hwamei and some Oriental Greenfinches both being life photos. In other circumstances I would also have been excited at some really good photos of a Red-flanked Bluetail, a striking bird common in Asia but a mega-rarity in the U.S.. I had been fortunate to see one in Idaho with a good photo and in both Washington and British Columbia in pouring rain precluding photos. There were not many misses on our trip, but there was one at the park – a missed photo of an Eurasian Jay – a species I had seen or heard 5 times in Italy without ever getting a photo. That would be the case here as well.

Ring-necked Duck Female – a Rarity in Japan
Brown Cheeked Rail – Lifer
Chinese Hwamei – Life Photo
Oriental Greenfinches – Life Photo
Red Flanked Bluetail

And one last photo for the day – a Common Kingfisher. All kingfishers are photo worthy and I am happy to include it here. I had seen and photographed it before in India, but this was the first for Japan.

Common Kingfisher

Even without the Smew, it had been a great day, but of course it was the Smew that made it one of my very best birding days ever. We ended the day with 43 species including 7 lifers and 17 life photos. We had 11 duck species including 5 or six that would have to be considered special. We took the train back to the Haneda Airport where we returned to our hotel rooms and had dinner there as well. It would be another early start the next morning. Our bodies were still adjusting to the jet lag and time differences, but we were doing fine – ready for more – with the plan being to fly to Hokkaido for several days birding there looking for some very special species.

Start with a Pitta and End with Bogart, Hepburn and Hemingway – Two Days in Uganda

June 26

How would you feel about a morning where you had 17 species but 10 of them were heard only,?six of the 17 were lifers but you saw only three of them, but you did get -?look at that species, but that 9 was a very rare and hard @’  find Green-breasted Pitta? And oh yeah you also got to see Chimpanzees. I have asked myself that question and my answer is that the disappointments somewhat outweighed the good moments and that maybe I need to recalibrate my expectations and reactions.

The morning in question was our trek in the very dense Kibaale National Park Forest accompanied by a local bird guide and a park ranger. Great weather but very dark and reminiscent of too many of my forest birding experiences, challenging to see anything and even more challenging for photos. I had either not realized or forgotten that while our main reason for being there was to find Chimpanzees, this was also the only likely place to find a Green-breasted Pitta, an uncommon charismatic species that had breeding territories and leks in Kibaale Forest NP. Thus when very early in our trek through the forest I heard what I was almost certain were Chimps, I did not understand why we continued on in a different direction. My thought had been: “Hurray this will not be a repeat of our endless slog through the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest before we found our Mountain Gorillas.” I heard Dion say “Pitta” and while my choice would have been to get the Chimpanzees quickly while we could, that was of course not what happened.

So we trudged on for at least another 30 minutes, memories of Bwindi hard to ignore. Finally our, guide indicated he had located a Pitta – by its call. Pittas are very colorful and sought after species anywhere they can be found. The Kibaale Pittas were high on the target lists of most birders visiting the Park, so I should have been excited. I was, sort of, not so much because it was a Pitta, but because it would of course be a lifer, and when I learned that it had been missed the last two days by others, maybe some competitive juice began to flow. I do not recall if it was Dion or our guide, but a Green-breasted Pitta was located calling on a horizontal branch. It was 70+ feet away and barely visible in the very dark forest and at least from the only angle I had through many layers of foliage. Even then I could see only part of the bird itself. So not exactly a great look and a very poor photo trying to use manual focus on the small target barely visible in the dark. The first photo is directly from the camera unedited and the second is the best I could do. In retrospect I might have had a better result if I had pushed the ISO setting to the upper limit – maybe.

Unedited Pitta Photo from Camera
Green-breasted Pitta – Highly EditedLifer

After the “Positive Pitta Pursuit”, it was time to look for our Chimpanzees. We did not find them immediately but fortunately at least time and effort wise it was nothing like our Gorilla trek. For Cindy and me at least, the expectation/hope for the Gorillas had been to find a group at leisure. If you read my blog post on that experience, you know this was far from the case as our Gorillas had rarely stopped moving – generally away from us. Our expectation for the Chimpanzees was different, as we understood they were a much more arboreal species, so any Chimps we would see would almost certainly be in the trees. The questions thus were whether the trees would be closer or further away from us and how much foliage would block our views. The answers were “not too close but not so far” and “yes lots of foliage, but with enough openings for photos and good observations”. Better yet, the Chimps were not constantly in movement and we had many more frontal views. At times it seemed like we were surrounded by Chimpanzees and maybe we got looks at a half dozen or more. Like with the Gorillas, it was impossible to look at them, each with a very distinctive face, and not see our own evolutionary connection or relationship. We did not see much behavioral interaction but their strength and agility was striking as was the breadth of their emotional expression.

Older Chimpanzee
A Momentary Repose
This Chimp Was Excited about Something
Chimpanzee Watching Us Watching Him – Missing an Ear?
Very Young Chimpanzee

The edited and enlarged photos make it seem otherwise but we were never really close to the Chimpanzees and never felt any danger although they are know to be less docile than the Mountain Gorillas. The light a challenge with varying amounts of sun breaking through the dense forest but fortunately much better than it had been with the Pitta and we were very pleased with the experience and felt privileged to be in their world.

All told, we spent less than an hour with the Chimpanzees and over 4.5 hours in the Forest. As stated earlier, many, too many, of the birds were heard only including two species from a group with one of the strangest names – Brown and Scaly-breasted Illadopsis. What’s the plural? Illadopsises? I just had to know the derivation of this word and found that it comes from the Greek “illas” for “thrush” and “opsis” for “appearing”. Since we never saw them, I would not have known if they appeared like thrushes. We had two more birds, both lifers, that were also heard only and not seen that fit the same thrush bill – Rufous Flycatcher-thrush and Red-tailed Ant-thrush. So it was a good morning for thrushes – as long as visuals were not required.

There was a hoped for bird that did require a visual for me to be happy. In fact I was thinking about it as we were coming to the end of our trek. I knew that this was a good place for Narina Trogon and literally within a minute of this bird coming to mind we found one. It was high up in a tree almost directly over us. I was able to get a good view of this lifer and some photos but it just would not turn its head for the shot I really wanted. Somewhat like the also always appealing Barbets, Trogons are found in both the Eastern (Asia and Africa) and Western (North and South America) Hemispheres and are always top targets for birders. The Narina Trogon was my second Trogon in Africa and my 20th worldwide – definitely a worthy target.

Narina Trogon – Lifer

The other seen lifer for the morning was a Narrow-tailed Starling a slender black bird with a golden eye and that narrow tail. In the U.S. our only starling is the European Starling, introduced from Europe and often, perhaps unfairly, considered a trash bird. Including a number of mynas which are classified together with the starlings, this was my 40th starling species, a total that greatly surprised me. Of those 40, 22 are from Africa, one from Europe and one from Australia with all the others from Asia. The only other photos from the morning were a Black-headed Paradise Flycatcher and a pair of Black Bee-eaters.

Narrow-Tailed Starling
Black-headed Paradise-flycatcher
Black Bee-eaters

One of the heard-only species (another lifer) was a species I very much wish I had seen and especially photographed – Blue-breasted Kingfisher. It called over and over for several moments in the dense forest but just would not make an appearance. The photo below is from Ebird taken by David Beadle. I doubt there will be another opportunity, what a beauty.

Blue-breasted Kingfisher – Photo by David Beadle

The nine new Uganda species in the morning brought me to 350. In the afternoon, we birded the Bigodi Swamp and added another 6 new for Uganda and 3 more lifers for me. I got a photo of the Magpie Mannikin and missed one of a Black-and-White Shrike-flycatcher. I was certain I had a photo of the Senegal Coucal, but I cannot find it among the thousands of photos taken on the trip. Other photos of note were three life photos: Violet-backed Starling (sadly female only), Purple-headed Starling, and African Harrier-hawk together with non-lifer photos of Black-and White Casqued Hornbills.

Magpie Mannikins – Lifer
Violet-backed Starling Female – Life Photo
Purple-headed Starlings – Life Photo
African Harrier-hawk – Life Photo

It was then back to the Chimpanzee Guest House for our last night there. In the morning we would head off on a long travel day to Masindi and the Budongo Forest – part of the neighboring Congo forest and thus promising many new species.

June 27

It was a long travel day but there were birding stops along the way. In just a few moments at the Fort Portal Wetlands we had 12 species including our first Northern Masked Weaver of the trip and my life photo of that species. A few moments later we did our last birding in the Kibaale Forest. In thirty minutes I added a lifer Masked Apalis and life photos of Scarce Swift, Gray-throated Barbet and Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, the latter two species which I had been seen but only poorly in forest birding earlier in the trip. We also got good looks at another Golden-crowned Woodpecker.

Northern Masked Weaver – Life Photo
Scarce Swift – Life Photo
Masked Apalis – Lifer
Gray-throated Barbet – Life Photo
Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird
Golden-crowned Woodpecker

Our next stop was at the Nguse River Camp Restaurant. I cannot recall if we actually had lunch there or just used their bathroom facilities, but there was good birding as I added a lifer Whistling Cisticola and finally got a photo of an African Pygmy Kingfisher in addition to seeing three species of Sunbird.

Whistling Cisticola – Lifer
African Pygmy Kingfisher – Life Photo

Later in the afternoon we hit an excellent group of birds along Hoima Road in Masindi with mixed species in the grasses. The group included waxbills, mannikins, whydahs, canaries, weavers, and widowbirds. The Red-Collared and Yellow-mantled Widowbirds were lifers. I also had a lifer Copper Sunbird. Birds were pretty active and at one point I saw a bird that had I had been home in Washington State, I would have quickly noted as a Red-winged Blackbird. Of course they are not in Africa, but this was a black bird with a red wing patch – and a hint of color at the base of the bill. It was a lifer Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike. I only saw it once in flight before it disappeared in the tall grass – unfortunately no photo, but an easy ID. I did get a photo of a Brimstone Canary – my first for that species.

Red-collared Widowbird – Lifer
Yellow-mantled Widowbird – Lifer
Copper Sunbird – Lifer
Brimstone Canary – Life Photo

Neither was new for the trip or on any life list, but at this spot, I got good photos of a Broad-billed Roller and two male Pin-tailed Whydahs with their very long tails.

Broad-billed Roller
Male Pin-tailed Whydahs

Then there was the Moustached Grass-Warbler. I had seen one last year in Tanzania without a photo. One was feeding in the grasses at this stop as well, generally out of sight with only brief appearances with some of the other species. I kept trying for a photo, and it kept hiding. There are two birds in the photo below, I think the one in the back, even without a distinct moustache, may be the warbler as it is the only species we saw there that has that yellow eye and that bill. I am also including photos of two of the weavers, Vieillot’s Black Weaver and Grosbeak Weaver. It was a very birdy spot as we had 27 species altogether in just under an hour covering less than 200 yards.

Possible Moustached Grass Warbler
Grosbeak Weaver
Vieillot’s Black Weaver

We continued on to our next lodging – the famous Masindi Hotel. It is the oldest hotel in Uganda and is famous mostly because Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn had stayed there during the filming of The African Queen in 1952, and it was also a favorite of Ernest Hemingway. The hotel was perfectly adequate but let’s just leave it that it was “a bit dated”.

Masindi Hotel Reception – “Just a bit dated”
Poster in the Masindi Hotel

Queen Elizabeth II National Park – Birds and Mammals

June 23rd – Afternoon

My last blog post ended with our arrival at Queen Elizabeth II National Park around noon on June 23rd marking the halfway point for our scheduled tour. My Uganda bird list stood at 294 species and we had had a taste of the big mammals of Africa. Both lists would grow starting with our first afternoon in the park which had 68 bird species. We were now mostly in habitat that we had birded before but the 6 new species brought our tour list to 300 and one of these was a much desired new lifer for me – Madagascar Bee-eater. Even better, both individuals we saw provided great photo ops. Two birds were also new life photos – Alpine Swift and Golden-crowned Woodpecker.

Madagascar Bee-eater – Lifer
Alpine Swift – Life Photo
Golden Crowned Woodpecker – Life Photo

There were also several mammals of note although with one exception, our intersections with them would improve later in the park. It was here that we had our first Lions, our first Elephants, our first Uganda Kob and our first Giant Forest Hogs. The latter two were “life mammals”. We would see hundreds of Kob over the next week but the one small group of the Giant Hogs would be our only ones. The lions were surrounded by and immediately next to several vehicles – definitely not the natural setting you would want for any lion encounter. Fortunately we would have others including another on our last day in the Park and others much later at Murchison Falls on a night game drive.

Uganda Kob – Male – Life Mammal
Giant Forest Hog – Life Mammal
First (and fortunately not our last) Lion

June 24

We stayed that night (and the next) at the Mweya Safari Lodge in the Park – comfortable with a great location overlooking the Kazinga Channel connecting Lake George and Lake Edward. As always service was great and every Ugandan we met was super. After an early breakfast, we were out in the Northern sector of the Park looking for new birds and for animals. In 4 hours we found 75 species, 15 new for the tour, two lifers for me and some life photos including two lark species – Flappet and Rufous-naped. It was a real challenge finding let alone photograhing the lifer Small Buttonquail in the grass. Unfortunately I was not up to the challenge of grabbing a photo of the lifer Banded Martin that flew quickly by us.

Small Buttonquail – Lifer and Very Challenging Photo
Rufous-naped Lark – Life Photo
Flappet Lark – Life Photo

Although I had seen and photographed these species before, either earlier on this tour or during earlier tours elsewhere in Africa, some really fun photos were of a Village Weaver at our lunch stop, a nesting Kittzlitz’s Plover on an egg it its nest, a Saddle-billed Stork surrounded by Cattle Egrets, a Woodland Kingfisher with its wings spread and a Wattled Starling – just an odd looking bird.

Village Weaver on Our Lunch Table
Saddle-billed Stork and Cattle Egrets
Woodland Kingfisher
Wattled Starling

The morning had been great but our afternoon boat trip on the Kazinga Channel surpassed it and was definitely among the best parts of our entire tour. Combining bird lists from the morning and the afternoon, we had 107 species for the day with especially great looks at both mammals and birds on the boat trip that lasted 4 hours. As tours progress, it becomes harder to add new species, yet in addition to the 15 new Uganda species in the morning, we managed to add another 10 on the boat ride. Like in the morning, only two were lifers (both photographed) and another two were life photos, but there were unlimited photo ops for familiar species and our interactions with elephants and hippos were wonderful and photo-rich. The two lifers were African Skimmer and Red-throated Bee-eater and the additional new photos were Angola Swallow and Northern Black Flycatcher. Pure luck that I got the Bee-eater just as it was about to grab a dragonfly.

African Skimmer – Lifer
Red-throated Bee-eater – Lifer
Northern Black-flycatcher

As we approached the dock to load onto our boat, we had a good if distant look at a large group of elephants directly across from us – with more than a hundred African Skimmers flying near and around them. It looked like they would stay as we made our way across the channel and they did, providing the photo above – and many more of the Skimmers – but more impressively some great views of the elephants as they devoured a floating island of vegetation. We watched them for 15 minutes with a number of them in various interactions – mostly friendly but in a couple of instances jostling for better access to the food.

Big Tusker
Now That’s a Mouthful
Young Elephant in Deep Water (for him)
Feeding Free for All

As we were watching the elephants maybe 60 feet away from the boat to our left, we were being watched by several hippos about the same distance way to our right.

Spying Hippo

The Channel was great for close-up looks at many water related birds – waders, shorebirds, Egyptian Geese and three species of kingfishers including at least 200 Pied Kingfishers which nest in the dirt banks, and we often could see a dozen or more at one time. One stood out from the others, an almost pure white Pied Kingfisher – not albino but highly leucistic. The other  kingfishers were numerous Malachite Kingfishers.

Leucistic Pied Kingfisher
Pied Kingfisher at Nest Burrow in Bank
Malachite Kingfisher

As we continued our boat trip in the channel, there were almost always birds in view. In no particular order I am including photos of most of these species.

Squacco Heron
Long-tailed Cormorant – Breeding

Midway through our boat trip we came across another group of elephants. This time they were not so engaged with a meal, and after we had observed them for awhile, continuing to get closer and closer, it became clear that we were near that boundary where a further approach could be dangerous. Maybe it was because there were some babies, and when one of the larger elephants flared its ears and stared right at us, it was time to back off and move on.

Young Elephant
We got the message and moved on

We saw more hippos and a few antelope on the shores of the Channel together with numerous Buffalo. There had been a couple of smaller ones earlier, but finally we found a pretty large Nile Crocodile with a mouthful of very serious teeth.

One of the Many Buffalo
Nile Crocodile

The boat ride was a wonderful experience with good weather and calm water. Great birds and great animals. Our intersection at the beginning with the African Skimmers and the feasting elephants could not have been a better start. As we returned to the dock, another boat was heading out and we noted that the African Skimmers had moved on and so had the elephants. They had completely consumed the floating vegetation. Our timing had been perfect. We returned to the lodge for a rest and a relatively early dinner. We would be out at a reasonable time the next morning continuing our journey through the Park and moving on to the Chimpanzee Forest Lodge.

June 25

I saw my first Verreaux’s Eagle Owl at Lake Nakuru in Kenya in November 2007 and my second in South Africa in October 2014. Last year Cindy and I saw one at Lake Manyara in Tanzania in February. This morning I would keep the streak alive with one seen on an abandoned Hamerkop nest almost as soon as we left the lodge. All owls are great. What makes this one special is it’s decidedly pink eyelids. A great way to start the morning.

Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl

Shortly after the Eagle-Owl I added a lifer – a Brown-backed Scrub-robin. Although I am sure this photo is of the bird we saw, it looks to me more like a Red-Backed Scrub-robin. I will let the Ebird reviewers let me know. We had another Brown-backed Scrub-robin later, so I won’t lose a lifer in any event. I had Red-backed in Kenya, so nothing to gain either way.

Brown-backed Scrub-robin – Lifer

Shortly after the Scrub-robin we added three birds to our Uganda trip list: Red-faced Cisticola, Green-winged Pytilia and Crimson-rumped Waxbill, all of which I had seen and photographed before during earlier Africa trips.

Crimson-rumped Waxbill
Red-faced Cisticola

We had one more birding drive through Queen Elizabeth II Park and then headed to Chimpanzee Forest Lodge. An apparently pretty unusual find was a Beaudouin’s Snake-Eagle distinguished by the very fine complete barring across its chest and belly. We first saw it in flight and I got a quick photo, improved when it landed on an Euphorbia and perched for a few seconds. A second lifer was an African Crake – a fleeting view that did not include a photo.

Although not a lifer or even a life photo, for me by far the best birds of the morning were a flock of Collared Pratincoles that landed on the road ahead of our vehicle, would allow us to get a little closer and then move on a bit, repeating this every time we followed but eventually resulting in some nice photos – definite improvements over the ones from distant Collared Pratincoles last year in Tanzania. They look like a mix between shorebirds and swallows with striking markings.

Probably the most notable birds of the morning were the Senegal Lapwings which seemed to be everywhere, more than 100 of them, sometimes joined by a few Crowned Lapwings. We also had a couple of Wattled Lapwing’s and a Kittzlitz’s Plover – so a four plover morning.

It was also a good morning for cisticolas as we had Zitting Cisticolas singing everywhere and a couple of Croaking Cisticolas as well. We had seen a number of Pin-tailed Whydahs earlier, but they were plentiful here with a number of long tailed males.

Pin-tailed Whydah Male

There were two non-bird highlights of the morning. The first was watching a male Uganda Kob try to have hhis way with a female. It did not work but believing in “if at first you don’t succeed, try try again”, he did and it still did not work – rejection. The second was seeing our first “real Lion“. Sure the two Lions seen two days earlier surrounded by safari vehicles, indeed almost touching them, were real, but this one – a male sitting in the grass just off the road in front of us with nobody else around was many times better even more so as were we were in the Lion Savannah area of the Park. A fitting farewell to Queen Elizabeth II National Park.

Nice try – but not this time.
Male Lion
Male Lion

We arrived at the Chimpanzee Forest Lodge in the early afternoon and checked in. The lodge was comfortable with each of us having our own cottage. These pictures from the website give an idea of the accommodations.

Dining Room
Cottage
Twin Room

We birded at the lodge and surrounding area for an hour and then birded for another hour in Kibaale National Park where we would do our Chimpanzee trek the next morning. We added another half dozen species for our Uganda list (mine was then at 341) and four were also lifers for me: Afep Pigeon (fast flyover without time to get a photo and then never seen again), Speckle Breasted Woodpecker (seen only by me with a poor photo), Black Crowned Waxbill – photographed, and Sabine’s Spinetail – also photographed.

Out of Focus Speckle-breasted Woodpecker – Lifer
Black Crowned Waxbill – Lifer
Sabine’s Spinetail – Lifer

I also got lifer photos of two sunbirds, Olive-bellied and Green-throated or was it Blue-throated Brown-Sunbird – or did I get photos of both? After much debate I am close to sure that the for sure photo is of the latter and just not sure about the other.

Olive-bellied Sunbird
Blue-throated Brown Sunbird (I think)
Not Sure What Sunbird

A last photo for the day and a lifer photo for me was of a Hairy-breasted Barbet – an odd name for a bird as clearly no birds have hair, but I guess I can see how the plumage could lead to the name.

Hairy-breasted Barbet

Somehow we had added 15 species to our Uganda trip list – or at least to mine as there were species seen by others that I had missed either because I sat out a couple of walks or just could not find or hear birds seen by others – especially Dion our guide. So as I said my Uganda list was at 341 species and the tour list was probably approaching 350 species. There would be birds the next day, too, but our main quest really did have hair as we would be looking for Chimpanzees.

Penetrating the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – Gorilla Trekking and then off to Mahogany Springs

June 20 – Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – Our Mountain Gorilla Trek

Probably the single most important factor in our choosing Uganda as our next Africa destination was the possibility of seeing Mountain Gorillas. According to the latest released data, there are only 1063 of these large and powerful primates remaining in the world, with two separate population groups, one in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and one in Virunga Volcanoes – a region spanning three national parks in Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. They are found in high-elevation montane and bamboo forests adjoining agricultural areas. A little less than half of the Mountain Gorillas are in Bwindi. The other gorilla species, Lowland Gorillas, has a much larger population.

As humans we share more than 98 percent of our DNA with gorillas, only slightly less than the amount we share with Chimpanzees and Bonobos. Mature males are known as Silverbacks and can weigh over 400 pounds, measuring over 5 feet on all fours and over 6 feet tall when erect with a wingspan of 8.5 feet. They are incredibly strong being able to lift over 4000 lbs. and yet are able to effortlessly climb trees if branches will support their weight. Gorillas can live to 40 years of age. They do not eat meat, favoring plants, fruits and nuts. They can run at speeds up to 25 miles per hour. Gorillas live in family groups with a dominant male and change their sleeping areas nightly.

There is an elaborate system for gorilla trekking at Bwindi – strictly regulated and allowed only with park rangers and with a permit issued by the Bwindi National Park – limited each day and costing $700 each – funds that support the park and its administrative and ranger details and the community. There is no guarantee that gorillas will be seen but the Park makes great efforts to make it “highly likely”.

Here is the gorilla trekking process: Meet at the Park Headquarters where a head ranger gives background on gorillas and explains how it works. Local villagers from Ruhija – mostly women but some men then do several dances for the assembled “trekkers” (maybe 30). The dances are very energetic and sometimes the dancers pull people out of the audience to join them (usually embarrassing themselves in the process). Both Cindy and I were invited (coerced) to join in – separately. Viewers are encouraged to leave a gratuity in a can in front of the dancers. Cindy did great; fortunately there are no photos of me dancing.

Dancers from the Village
Cindy Dancing

After the dance, viewers are assigned to groups of no more than 10 who will then trek previously identified gorilla groups. Ours was the Bituicura Group. There are three such groups in the Bwindi Forest that are acculturated to and thus comfortable with humans in their midst. Trackers have staked out the general locations of the individual gorilla groups based on where they slept the night before. The trekkers are driven to trail entries into the jungle which will take them to the gorillas – hopefully. In our case the entry point was a mile or two from the headquarters. Any trekker that so chooses can hire a porter to carry their gear and help them with the ascent and/or descent and trek through the jungle. The porters are from the village – both men and women – and only get to do this maybe once a month. The charge for the porter is $20 – a significant amount to them. Cindy and I both elected to engage a porter – hers was named Hilda and mine was named Michael. (Just a note, most of the Ugandans we met who interacted with tourists had “English names” as well as their Ugandan names in their tribal language.”) The porters also provide walking sticks for the trekkers – generally bamboo rods – which proved essential. We would not have made it without the porters or the sticks.

Porters including Hilda

Each group is accompanied by a tracker – with machete in hand and used continuously as there are narrow trails that quickly end and it is necessary to bushwhack through the brush to make any progress. Each group is accompanied also by a ranger with a rifle. The gun is not to shoot a dangerous gorilla if trouble arises but to make scary noises in case any forest elephants show up. The elephants are very dangerous and need to be scared off. Fortunately this did not happen for us. Our group of 5 was joined by a young couple from Spain.

Our Protection – In Touch with Other Rangers by Cellphone

There is no way of knowing in advance how far one must go to reach the gorillas (hopefully). It can be as little as a quarter of a mile or several miles. When/if the gorillas are reached, you are allotted one hour with them. The porters stay away leaving the group and tracker and ranger to enjoy the gorillas, take photos etc. There are rules of conduct to be sure the behavior of the guests does not provoke the gorillas – passive, quiet, non-threatening, slow movements, avoiding eye-contact etc. In the event of a medical problem or if someone just cannot make it, you can call in a “helicopter” to rescue you. Not the flying mechanical kind, but a group of 4 to 6 villagers with a stretcher/litter who will carry it out with you on it. The cost is $300. One of the people in our party was very overweight and did consider calling for one. He persevered and made it without the helicopter.

So much for the general background – what about our trek? Bottom line – we did find a group of at least 8 gorillas – eventually. It was after an hour and a half of very difficult steep slow-go downhill “trekking” for significantly over a mile – all through very thick jungle with very little of it on any kind of trail – stepping over or through logs, roots, ferns, nettles, rocks, vines etc. For at much of this journey we were physically aided by and indeed relied upon our porters who were very strong and in great shape. And when we finally found the gorillas, they never kept still for more than a few moments. The hoped for situation is that you find them after they had eaten and are passively resting – and mostly still. Not our group – they were almost constantly on the move through heavy foliage looking for more food and barely interacting as we had seen on many reels on Facebook and You Tube. Most of our looks were of gorilla’s backs as they continued their foraging going downhill away from us. This continued for an hour and we kept going further and further downhill away from the vehicles up on the road where they had left us. Our porters continued on with us – again a necessity as the tracker continued to cut the way with his machete. Fortunately it did not rain and due to the elevation and being in thick jungle and thus out of the sun, it was neither hot nor humid – a blessing for sure. However the darkness in the jungle also made photography challenging even when there were possible shots of the animals.

At one point I was leaning up against a tree concentrating trying to get a better angle for a photo of a Silverback that was maybe 40 feet away. I felt something graze my shoulder from above and heard a shriek from behind me which was followed by a shriek from me. It was a fairly young gorilla coming down from the tree where apparently it had been eating some fruits high up and out of our sight. My shriek was not from pain or fear, just absolute shock. Even though the gorilla barely touched me, I could feel how solid it was, all muscle – not an encounter to be encouraged. Despite the difficulties and challenges, we certainly saw the gorillas and were able to get some decent photos, regretting mostly that the gorillas we had very few straight on looks to see the faces – each unique just as with us humans.

Almost the Picture We Wanted but Neither Mother or Baby Turned Around
This Old Silverback Had Relinquished His Dominant Place
Big Dominant Silverback
Younger Gorilla
This Picture Shows our Typical Situation with the Gorilla Moving Away from Us – Downhill and Through the Jungle – Usually Even More Dense

After maybe 70 or 80 minutes overall where we had been in contact with the gorillas, the ranger signaled that it was time to let them go and start our return. We had been given some extra time because it was realized that we had had to keep moving to have them in sight at all. By this time, we had come a long way down the steep slope and the thought of climbing back up was daunting and quickly dismissed. Instead we would continue further down until we hit an agricultural area and then a road. This sounded better than a climb back up especially with us thinking that our vehicles would be waiting for us. No not the case, the continued descent was longer than expected and when we got to the road, we learned we would have to hike up it for a mile or two to get to a place accessible by the vehicles. And now we would be in the open in the heat and the road was a very steep climb. After more than another hour, we finally got to the vehicles – ending what Cindy and I both agreed was the hardest thing we had ever done. Our porters had accompanied us the entire way, thankfully continuing to carry our packs and water. They rode back to Ruhija with us, and we gratefully acknowledged their efforts with a second $20 payment. This was a big deal for them as even a single $20 payment is highly sought after and recall they only get to do it once a month.

Given the great difficulty getting to the gorillas, the limited intersection and observation of them and the difficult hike down after the gorillas and then the challenge to get back up to get to the vehicles, despite the amazing experience of seeing them at all, Cindy and I both agreed that if we had known that our trek and interactoin would be what it was, we would not have gone – just not enough reward for the effort and cost. Of course we did not know this at the start and it could have been very different and better. There will not be another opportunity so this will be our only gorilla experience of our lives. Without the present agony of the trek, we can say we are glad we did it and we have certificates to prove that we completely the trek and some photos to memorialize the day.

Proof of Trekking

There were birds along the way as we were trekking but our concentration was elsewhere and we were mostly looking down making sure we did trip on the roots or rocks or avoiding thorns and nettles. Our only visuals were after we parted from the gorillas. Before that the species were essentially heard only including two lifers Rwenzori Apalis and Doherty’s Bushshrike. I am particularly sad that we never saw the latter – a very striking bird. The only bird photo I got was of a Mountain Wagtail, a species I had photographed last year in Tanzania.

Doherty’s Bushshrike – Internet Photo
Mountain Wagtail

Finally we were done trekking. Two vehicles met us at the top of the road – one for our group and the other for the two Spaniards. All porters, trackers and guards loaded into the two vehicles for the return to Ruhija. We dropped Michael off at the Headquarters building and Hilda off at her handicraft shop in Ruhija and our very tired lot made it back to Gorilla Mist Camp. It had been a long day and it was now late afternoon. Time for a little rest and then dinner.

June 21 – Bwindi Impenetrable Forest Part 2 – Birding as We Left the Park

Today we would have a reasonably late breakfast (even later for Cindy who slept in), bird for a couple of hours in Bwindi near Ruhija, return to get our bags from Gorilla Mist Camp/Lodge and then bird for awhile further along in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest NP as we worked our way to our next accommodations at Mahogany Springs on the other side of the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest NP where we would spend the next two nights.

We had 38 species in our 2 hours of birding in the morning. Fourteen species were new for the tour and 4 were lifers and 8 were life photos – an excellent morning.

Cassin’s Hawk-eagle – Lifer
Abyssinian Thrush – Life Photo
Green White-eye – Life Photo (finally)
Strange Weaver – Distant Poor Photo – Lifer
Regal Sunbird – Lifer
Black-billed Turaco – Really Tough Shot
Northern Double-collared Sunbird (My best photo of this species)

I was sadly unable to get photos of a couple of the lifers, little birds that I could not pull out of the foliage. Not a lifer but a would have been life photo was a Blue Malkoha. I have a photo that is probably it with a blurry yellow bill, but I just cannot stretch standards enough to include it. The photo below is from Ebird.

Blue Malkoha – Ebird Photo (Jan Harm Wiers)

It was then back to Gorilla Mist Camp to load up and grab box lunches for the road. There was one important stop on our way out of Ruhija – the crafts shop of Cindy’s porter, Hilda. We had seen some masks earlier at hotel/lodge gift shops and were interested. When we saw that Hilda had masks in her shop it was easy – well except for choosing which one. They were all very reasonably priced. There was some extra room in our luggage for a smaller one as we had brought an extra bag so we made the purchased and bid goodbye to Hilda – more on that later.

Cindy with our Mask and Hilda at Her Shop

Our main stop would be to a hotspot in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest NP called “The Neck” where we birded along the road for something over an hour after our box lunches. There were 17 species of which all but 2 were new for the trip and 3 were lifers (one heard only) and with 4 life photos.

Cassin’s Flycatcher – Lifer
Green Sunbird – Life Photo
Speckled Tinkerbird – Lifer

We reached Mahogany Springs mid-afternoon and checked in to our lovely rooms. Cindy stayed behind and had what she said was the best facial she has ever had and the rest of us birded for an hour on the Park Entrance Road adding another 10 species to the trip list (now at 261 species) including 4 more lifers for me but photos were hard to come by with mostly small and distant birds in thick foliage. I managed poor photos of two of the lifers – White Breasted Nigrita and Toro Olive Greenbul and a lifer photo of a Rock Martin.

Rock Martin – Life Photo

We were glad to check-in to the Mahogany Springs Lodge which was at least one and maybe two or three steps above the accommodations the previous 4 nights. Those places were fine but only fine with electrical switches and outlets either absent or in odd places, with generally poor lighting and challenges with water temperatures and Wi-Fi. Remember we had been spoiled in Tanzania where those had not been issues at all. Cindy was particularly pleased to have access to a hair dryer again. Definitely 1st world criticisms – and again, not in any way unsafe and sleep challenging, but still we really enjoyed Mahogany Springs. The photos tell at least part of the story.

Accommodations in Separate Chalets
Large Beautiful Rooms
The Setting at the Edge of the Forest
Our Always Smiling, Always Attentive, Always Gracious Host

Uganda – Starting the Tour at Entebbe and then our first Shoebill and more at the Mabamba Swamp

The promotional material for the Victor Emanuel Nature Tours trip to Uganda indicated “Uganda is safe and delightfully friendly. As a country it has undergone astonishing changes in recent decades. Infrastructure improvements to the roads, lodges and development programs for the local guides have made wildlife touring in Uganda one of the best experiences possible in the natural history world.” It continued with the note that there would be opportunities in this country where the African savannah meets the African jungle, for lions and elephants, crocodiles and hippos, leopards and giraffes, chimpanzees and mountain gorillas, many other primates and other mammals and lots of birds including the iconic Shoebill, kingfishers, hornbills, turacos, trogons, sunbirds and weavers – maybe 450 species of birds in all.

For better or worse, Cindy and I had had a wonderful trip to Tanzania with up close encounters with the Big Five, cheetahs, thousands of mammals, wonderful places to stay, beautiful scenery and super people – both traveling companions and Tanzanians and wonderful and numerous birds. The Tanzania trip set high expectations, a high bar to meet. We had not appreciated it at the time we signed on for Uganda, but there would be two major differences in the nature of the trip itself. One was that there would be a lot more time spent in the jungle/forest in Uganda with birding more challenging and sometimes frustrating as a result and another was that there would also be a lot more travel through small villages and towns in Uganda compared to travel time spent mostly in and between savannah like National Parks in Tanzania. There were pluses and minuses comparing the two environments. The tourism industry is relatively new in Uganda whereas it is well established in Tanzania, and the associated infrastructure is far more (and better) developed in Tanzania. Roads and lodges in Uganda were a level or two below Tanzania. A real problem? No. Noted? Yes.

That said, our first days and nights at the Boma Hotel Guesthouse in Entebbe were great. Very comfortable room, good food, terrific people, beautiful gardens and a great location in a safe and in some cases, upper class neighborhood with an odd combination of dirt roads and large, elegant, gated homes. We had a full day and a half to acclimatize before the formal trip began, our choice since the travel time from Seattle to Uganda was over 20 hours and there was a ten hour time difference (Uganda being ten hours ahead). It was a good decision as we got some time for a short nap and time to walk around and bird in the neighborhood in addition to some leisure time and birding at the Boma as well.

June 14

It was the morning of June 14th and the weather was a perfect 75 degrees without a cloud in sight or much humidity. Indeed weather on the trip was consistently great with there being rain on one morning or a couple of nights as we slept. The formal beginning of the trip was dinner on the 15th and it was two early for a nap, so we birded the gardens at the Boma Guesthouse which offered lots of birds and then had a leisurely walk around the neighborhood which added more. Our first finds included a Woodland Kingfisher, Hadada Ibis, two sunbirds (Red and Scarlet Chested), Gray Parrots and a White Browed Coucal.

Hadada Ibis
Scarlet Chested Sunbird

We also met two very interesting people on the walk. The first was an “older bearded gentleman” who started by speaking French to us. I responded with my very limited French and made it clear that we were American so he switched to English – who knows how many languages he spoke. We learned that he had served as a bodyguard to the former Uganda strongman Idi Amin. Not sure of his politics now but he was proud to be a Ugandan. Later on a street with many large homes – all gated – we saw a very fit and handsome man in uniform carrying an automatic rifle. His serious look turned to a smile when I told him he was the most handsome man we had seen (he was). We had a long chat in English and learned that he was hired as private security for the neighborhood and had trained with Navy Seals in Washington State and he was familiar with our hometown of Edmonds – what a surprising coincidence. We returned to the Boma and finally had that catch up snooze.

We were back out for another walk in the afternoon and I added the first lifer for the trip – a spectacular Ross’s Turaco – right on the Boma grounds. We also had Eastern Plantain-eaters and our first of many White-browed Robin-chats. All told we had 19 species for the day – a great intro to the Birds of Uganda.

Ross’s Turaco
Eastern Plantain Eaters
White Browed Robin Chat

June 15

After dinner at the Boma Guesthouse, we had a surprisingly easy and good night’s sleep and were up and ready to go at a pretty normal time in the morning. We revisited the neighborhood around the Boma and had another 19 species on our hour long walk. One was a Rameron Pigeon that Ebird said was rare for the area – but I could document it with a photo. The most striking bird was a Black Headed Gonolek and the cutest was a Red-cheeked Cordonbleu. As would be the case for most birds on the trip, due to my previous birding in Kenya, Tanzania and South Africa, none of these birds were lifers, but I was also interested in adding photos to my life photo list. None of the aforementioned birds were new to that list, but I did add a photo of an African Thrush.

That afternoon, we met our tour guide, Dion Hobcroft, who had been my guide on a VENT tour in India in 2011, and the other two members of our group. We spent several hours birding on the grounds of the guesthouse seeing many species we had seen earlier and adding many more including lifers Green White-eye (no photo yet), African Hobby (quick flyover), Splendid Starling and Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird. I also had life photos of Double Toothed Barbet and Brown-throated Wattle-eye.

Splendid Starling – Lifer
Double-toothed Barbet – Life Photo
Brown-throated Wattle-eye – Life Photo

By the end of the day, my Uganda list was at 44 species. Cindy and I both felt good after the long flight and the time adjustment. We were together with the group and had had some good food. We did not know it at the time, but we should probably have made an effort to get to an ATM machine in Entebbe, a major city adjacent to the Ugandan capital of Kampala. There was a commercial area not far from the Boma which would have worked. Too late. The birding had been pretty easy and the birds were mostly in the open and some were even charismatic or even spectacular – the kind most appreciated by Cindy. As is the norm on birding trips, there would be an early start the next day and we would be off to the Mabamba Wetlands and our first boat trip on the tour with our major target being a Shoebill.

June 16

This was the official stat of our tour and there was a major addition as we were now joined by our Ugandan guide who also was the driver of our Land Cruiser for the trip. Veronica Nakafeero would be with us for the first half of the trip. She was proof of the success of the program to develop young bird guides, especially young woman bird guides in Uganda. She would deftly handle the challenging roads ahead and was an excellent spotter and identifier of birds along the way, and also good company – a great addition to the group.

Veronica Nakafeero

We were on the road around 6 a.m. and our first birds were two Great Blue Turacos – spectacular and out in the open. Shortly thereafter, we added another gorgeous bird and another lifer for me – Papyrus Gonolek, a species which was high on my “want list” and then two minutes later another lifer – a Lizard Buzzard. I had the feeling this was going to be a very good day.

Great Blue Turaco
Papyrus Gonolek – Lifer
Lizard Buzzard – Lifer

We got to the Mabamba Swamp and Wetlands around 8 a.m. and got on our small boat with our guide at the front and an oarsman at the back. It was the perfect craft to explore the wetlands and to get close to the many birds making it their home. We spent several hours there logging in 50 species and I was able to get photos of more than half of them. This is the best place in Africa, probably in the world, to find a Shoebill, a simply incredible bird. There were several treats along the way, but it did not take too long to find a Shoebill, as there were already several boats stopped along one of the many channels with passengers focused on this magnificent bird. Our guide pointed ahead and she expertly guided us to a good position for views and photos. You can see a photo of a Shoebill and easily acknowledge how unique they are, but seeing one in person is many times better, hard to believe they are real, looking like some prehistoric creature. I took more than 100 photos and could have chosen almost any to include here. Remember that they can be 5 feet tall, weigh 12 pounds (a lot for a bird with flight) and have a wingspan of 7.5 feet. They can remain motionless for long periods of time before grabbing a lungfish, its favorite prey. This lifer was definitely one of the highlights of the trip – and it was only formally day 1.

Shoebill – Is It a Bird or a Prehistoric Monster?

We watched the Shoebill for 30 minutes, and it was very hard to say goodbye, but other birds beckoned. It would take too long to chronicle them all. I have chosen some of the better photos but am leaving out some really nice birds.

There are 9 species of Lovebirds in the world. I have seen 4 species including the Rosy-faced Lovebird as an introduced species in both Arizona and Hawaii. All 9 are native to Africa or Madagascar. Last year in Tanzania, I added Fischer’s and Yellow-collared Lovebirds to my life list in and this day I added the Red-headed Lovebird. They are small to medium sized parrots with large heads and are definitely “cute”. The only other parrots seen in Uganda were Meyer’s and Gray Parrots both of which I had seen previously.

Red-headed Lovebird – Lifer

There were two other lifers seen at Mabamba Swamp – Blue-headed Coucal and Lesser Jacana. Missing a photo of the former was just stupid on my part. By the time I realized the coucal that I was watching was Blue-headed and not White-browed, it flew off. Opportunity lost. The Lesser Jacana was a success. It is a difficult bird to find and particularly difficult to photograph as it is very jumpy and does not let you get close. It flies off quickly and disappears in the grass. We found two – neither close and I was lucky to get at least ID quality flight shots – highly enlarged.

Lesser Jacana – Lifer

One last picture and story from the Mabamba Swamp. In Tanzania at Gibb’s Farm I had my lifer African Blue Flycatcher, a very lovely all blue bird. Don’t ask why, but it was just after lunch and I did not have my camera. We never saw another one, so I was sure to get a photo when I saw one at Mabamba Swamp. Unfortunately it took off just as I got onto it, not the greatest but a lifer photo nonetheless.

African Blue Flycatcher

After our great boat ride we would return to the Boma Guesthouse with some stops along the way including at Nkima Forest Lodge where we had lunch and picked up a Crowned Hornbill and White Spotted Flufftail. Neither were lifers and I had photos of both but added the Hornbill to my Uganda photo list. Later we added Long-crested Eagle and White Hooded Vulture on the road and then at the end of the day, we birded the Entebbe Botanical Garden – often a great birding spot and we did have 37 species, but Dion said it was slower than usual. Our best species was a Bat Hawk. I thought I had a photo but cannot find one – a big disappointment. Other lifers for me were an Orange Weaver and an Olive-bellied Sunbird. The former was very distant and I had only a brief scope view. We also had our first Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill.

Olive Bellied Sunbird – Lifer

At the end of the day, my Uganda list stood at 96 species and I had added 16 species to my World Life list and about the same to my world photo list. The Shoebill was the highlight and the boat trip was a complete success – equally enjoyed by Cindy who continued to revel at the Shoebill sighting as well as the Kingfishers. We had grilled tilapia for dinner – tasting better than we remembered it from elsewhere. We were ready for more.